Ephesus Roman Empire. Ancient city of Ephesus in Turkey

Ruins of the ancient ancient city Ephesus is one of the most popular attractions in Turkey and always attracts a sea of ​​tourists. This monument is located on the western coast of Turkey, near the small town of Selcuk.

As early as the second century BC. there was a city here, and the city of Ephesus itself was once built here as a port. The city reached its greatest prosperity during the Roman Empire - it was the second most important city after Rome. Subsequently, the sea moved to the west, the importance of the city fell sharply and it fell into disrepair.

Ephesus covers about 10 square kilometers, but most of its treasures are hidden in impenetrable swamps. But even what is on the surface is more than enough to spend a whole day here. Archaeological research into the ancient settlement began in 1869 by English scientists and continues to this day.

Ephesus is one of the few ancient cities that you can walk through today. Just walk along its streets, looking at the architectural structures of past centuries, dilapidated, excavated by archaeologists, and again presented to the world as proof of the boundlessness of human imagination. Changing cultures and religions, people, as a rule, destroyed everything that came to their hands, not caring at all about what their descendants would think. And we regret what was lost and try to imagine in our imagination what has not been preserved - the facades of houses richly decorated with stucco, the brightness and pretentiousness of the patterns of mosaic coverings, the grandeur of temples, the vaults of which soar on numerous rows of marble columns...

A long time ago, during the period of the Great Colonization, when the Ionian Greeks actively developed the coasts of the Mediterranean, Black, Aegean, Marmara seas (and this was between the 16th and 11th centuries BC) - all those seas that wash the peninsula of Asia Minor, occupied today amazing country Türkiye - at the confluence of the Kaistra River and the Aegean Sea, it was founded new city Afasa - City by the river. This was preceded by almost mystical events. At that time, a king named Codra ruled in Athens, and he had a son, Androcles. As you know, at all times and among all peoples, only God was higher than the king. And the Greeks had a whole pantheon of deities led by Zeus.

The kings received news from their invisible patrons through the clergy. So Androcles received an order from the Delphic oracle to found a new city on the coast of the Aegean Sea. Having gathered an army, Androcles immediately went to the lands where the Etruscans lived from time immemorial and among them a mysterious tribe of warriors, the Amazons, who were not inferior to men in the art of war and therefore lived separately, only occasionally allowing men into their huts so that the Amazon race could continue. The oracle told the son of Codrus where he should found a new city - where three symbols come together - fish, fire and wild boar. And Androcles found such a place. Already in despair, having explored the vast territory, he decided to return home without a quick slurp, when sparks flew from the fire on which they were frying fish before a long journey, they set the nearest bush on fire, and a wild boar jumped out of the bush.

The oracle's prediction came true! - the prince exclaimed and ordered to found a city on this place. Thus the will of the gods was fulfilled, and from that time history begins ancient Ephesus.

The city at the foot of Mount Bulbul (modern name) is the second incarnation of the city of Androcles. It was built by one of the comrades of Alexander the Great, who conquered it, or, as they say, liberated it from Persian rule in 334 BC. The name of the new ruler of Ephesus was Lysimachus. Alexander the Great gave a truly royal gift to his warrior. There was one problem in Ephesus - the Kaistra River (or Little Menderes) tended to become swampy, which led to the appearance of a huge number of mosquitoes that carried diseases such as malaria. People died, but flatly refused to leave their homes. Then the wise Lysimachus forced them to do this - he ordered not to supply water to the city. Residents had no choice but to leave their homes and move away from the treacherous river.

The straight streets of the city, paved with marble and stones, descend down the mountain slope, and in the time of Lysimachus they led the traveler to the sea harbor, where numerous ships with goods landed. So the city developed due to extensive trade. But in the 3rd century BC there was a strong earthquake, as a result of which the sea receded, dropping 57 meters. This natural disaster, like the countless wars of conquest that weakened the once strong city, marked the beginning of the decline of Ephesus. Today ancient Ephesus - dead city. But every day it comes to life again, filled with the multilingual speech of tourists walking along its streets. A vibrant crowd wanders along it from the eastern gate down the hill, listening to the entertaining stories of the guides and barely managing to capture all the sights during the two-hour excursion, clicking cameras left and right.

The first building that is certainly remembered by everyone without exception is the Odeon or Maly Theater. It is well preserved, although it was built in 150 AD and was intended for city council meetings. It is unlikely that the senators of Ephesus were dressed as colorfully as the people sitting on its steps and benches today! Groups of tourists are located in close groups in all four sectors of the auditorium and listen, listen to the soulful speeches of the guides right under the hot sun, since the roof of the Odeon collapsed seventeen centuries ago. Now from the theater three hills made of brick are clearly visible, rising on high pedestals on the left hand of those sitting. Having a good imagination, you can imagine what their original form was and, imagining it, you will be surprised: these were statues of three powerful bulls, with their heads down, ready to attack anyone who stood in their way. The bull is still a symbol of the Turkish city of Selcuk, which occupies the territory of ancient Ephesus. By the way, modern residents of Turkey, which has united many ancient kingdoms within its borders, still like to erect monuments or sculptural compositions animals, birds and even plants.

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So, in one of the cities on the way to Ephesus there is a monument to a fig - a fig tree in Greek - the same tree whose large openwork leaf covered Adam and Eve's nakedness. But the monument was built not in honor of biblical heroes, but because this sweet fruit, figs, is grown in these parts as the main agricultural crop. There is a monument to a rooster in the city of Denizli, also nearby. This bird saved the city from a fire that happened early in the morning, so early that the rooster had no time to sing yet, but he sang, wailed and woke up the owner. And he, out of anger at the restless bird, decided to immediately cut off its head - he jumped out into the yard with an ax and... saw a fire.

In Ephesus, statues of people without heads are well preserved. Perhaps in those distant times they were made from some famous people or even the rulers of the city, but... their names were swallowed up by history. But the bulls are still recognizable! Opposite the theater is the Agora, or simply put, the market square. Not only did they trade there, they held general civic meetings there. That is, if you want to talk to the whole world, please go to the Agora, and if you want to whisper among yourself on all sorts of political topics, please go to the Odeon. But little remains of the Agora - openwork capitals from columns or parts of their trunks, randomly scattered on the ground.

Ephesus is such an ancient city that, along with the established facts of the purposes of dilapidated houses, the dates of the reign of this or that emperor, there are legends organically woven into the fabric of history. The very name of the city gave rise to one of them - a beautiful fairy tale about the queen of the warlike tribe of Amazons, who lived on these lands before the arrival of the Greeks. That Amazon's name was Ephesia, which means desired. And she was so beautiful that Androcles fell in love with her at first sight. It is not known whether Ephesia was inflamed with the same ardent feeling for the Greek prince, but, oddly enough, she agreed to become his wife. And then, following the example of their queen, all the Amazons also found husbands among the warriors of Androcles. Either they were exhausted without men at all, or they showed feminine wisdom, realizing that they could die in the battle with the Greeks, but they broke their oath to preserve a monogamous society. Enchanted by his wife, Androcles named his city after her. This is how Ephesus appeared.

Descriptions of female warriors are found in myths and folk tales different countries. According to one version, all Amazons are daughters of the god Ares and his beloved goddesses - Harmony, Otrera and even Artemis herself, whom the Amazons of Asia Minor worshiped. They called their goddess Qibla. A distinctive feature of the goddess was her multiple breasts. The same statue of the goddess Artemis, found in Ephesus Artemisia, built in the 6th century BC, has reached us. According to Greek mythology, Artemis was the sister of Apollo, the daughter of the almighty Zeus and the beautiful goddess Leto. The Amazons are always depicted on horseback, dressed in homemade leather robes and helmets, and armed with a bow, battle ax and light shield. Their hair flutters over their shoulders, there is courage in their eyes, their faces are stern and express inaccessibility. And, of course, the warriors are as slender as chamois, and at the same time, have well-developed muscles of the arms and legs. But there is a description that says that girls - daughters of the Amazons - had their left breasts burned out for more convenient use of weapons. And the Spartan lifestyle hardly contributed to the preservation of female beauty. Well, perhaps the male warriors from Athens liked exotic female warriors more, and the gentle, well-groomed Greek women simply could not stand the competition.

From the Agora down to the Library of Celsus the street of Kurets ran like an arrow. It can be called an avenue - straight, paved with stone and marble, with majestic buildings on both sides, it is impressive to this day. Along the entire street there are still pedestals on which statues of gods and famous people of that time once stood. Surprisingly, the names engraved in stone have been preserved. The word “curetes” in Ephesus was used to describe the clergy of the Temple of Artemis, which, although it was part of the polis, still remained completely independent. The most stunning view of the street opens at the Hercules Gate - by climbing onto the dilapidated wall of one of the buildings you can see the entire perspective of the street.

And if you close your eyes and listen to people’s conversations, and at the same time forget about time, that this is the twenty-first century, then the life of the city begins to seem natural. People go about their business - some to the Scholastica bathhouse, which is located behind the Temple of Hadrian, others to a public toilet, where both men and women relieve themselves at the same time to the sounds of an orchestra playing near a small fountain, so that natural sounds do not injure the delicate ears Ephesians. One can imagine how the owner of a rich house, the floor of which is decorated with a wide ribbon of mosaic, eagerly rushes to the library to immerse himself in reading ancient tomes, and perhaps use this as an excuse to make his way through the underground passage from the library to the Public House. the house that stands opposite. And let the wife tell her friends how smart her husband is, how he loves to read books! During the Greek archaic period, when culture was exalted to the level of the gods, Ionia - the western coast of Asia Minor, where the city of Ephesus is located, was the most developed region of Greece. It was there that the first philosophical system of antiquity arose - natural philosophy. Philosophers reflected and argued, defending their view of the world, its laws, and comprehending the fundamental principles of things.

The city of Ephesus became famous for the name of Heraclitus of Ephesus (c.554-483 BC), who considered fire to be the fundamental principle of matter. In his opinion, both in nature and in society there is an eternal movement, an eternal struggle, existence is constantly changing. How right Heraclitus was - and to this day those in power are fighting for it, still trying to change the world with fire and sword! The feeling of belonging to history persists throughout the entire walk along the street, which was buried under a thick layer of earth for almost two thousand years and was excavated by archaeologists only a little over two centuries ago. Already silent delight is caused by the sight of the perfectly preserved façade of the Library of Celsus - with four statues of goddesses, symbols of wisdom, harmony, and understanding. The library was built in the 2nd century AD in honor of the proconsul of Ephesus, Celsus, whose marble tomb was subsequently installed in a large niche of the hall. On the inside of the facade there is a well-preserved inscription in Greek, which tells about the creation of the Library. Priceless papyri were kept in square niches along the walls of the reading room. In the 3rd century, during the invasion of the Goths, the Library burned down with all its books and scrolls. Alas! Apparently the Goths were not interested in the wisdom of the world, and they did not care at all about preserving the priceless treasures of literature, philosophy and history.

From the Library of Celsus, to the right through the gates of Mazeus and Mithridates, Marble Avenue leads to the most majestic building of Ephesus - the Theater, which could accommodate thirty thousand people at a time. It hosted theatrical performances and held gladiator fights. The theater was built in 117, but even today it is a grandiose structure. It takes your breath away when you look at it from Portovaya Street - the even semicircles of 68 rows of spectators converge in perspective at the facade of the three-story stage building, with its back side facing the observer. The stage was decorated with Ionic and Corinthian columns, between which were located sculptures of gods and emperors. The capital - the part of the column that ends its trunk at the top - in the Ionic version has the appearance of a rolled scroll, and the Corinthian column is decorated with a more complex ornament and looks somewhat more elegant.

Of course, in the 2nd century, visitors to Ephesus could not see the inside of the Theater from the street, since it was covered with a roof, but you can easily imagine what it looked like then. And what a magnificent landscape was revealed to the eye from the Theater - after all, the sea harbor was practically next to it. Now the coast of the Aegean Sea is twelve kilometers from the ancient ruins! But the Theater is not all that surprises the modern tourist in ancient Ephesus. The most significant building in terms of its history, and not in terms of the preserved remains of walls and columns, remains the Temple of Artemis - that same multi-breasted goddess who gives life to all living things, who has become a symbol of motherhood and fertility. Back in antiquity, the Temple of Artemis was included in the seven wonders of the world along with Egyptian pyramids, Alexandria lighthouse, hanging gardens Semiramis in Babylon, statues of the Colossus of Rhodes, Halicarnassus Mausoleum, statues of Zeus in Olympia.

Today people travel by bus to the place where Artemisium once stood. After two hours of walking under the scorching sun, it’s a few minutes of blissful relaxation under the cool air conditioning. The Temple of Artemis of Ephesus, like the city of Ephesus itself, was rebuilt more than once. But invariably on the old foundation, which, as legends say, rested on a kind of pillow of coal and bull hides - in this way the architect Harsifron protected the foundation from destruction by the swampy soil of this area. The first city of Ephesus, founded by Androcles, is still hidden in the swamp and, perhaps, someday the time will come, and future archaeologists will be able to “raise” it to the surface.

Today only one column remains from the Temple of Artemis. There were 127 of them, 18 meters high. The roof of the Temple rested on them, under which countless treasures were stored - rich people gave their valuables to the Temple of Artemis, trusting the goddess like a Swiss bank. But one day the Temple was robbed, and it happened on the birthday of Alexander the Great. Subsequently, the priests of the Temple explained to the people who had lost their wealth that Artemis that day went to give birth to the mother of the Great Alexander. The robbers took advantage of this - in the absence of the goddess, they became bolder and freely climbed into the treasury. This legend lived for many, many years, so that Alexander the Great all his life felt guilty before the residents of Ephesus for that robbery. And he tried in every possible way to support them financially during the years of his reign. But even the Great Alexander could not imagine WHAT would destroy the Temple of Artemis - human stupidity and vanity, the desire to become famous for centuries in any way! There lived a man in Ephesus who really wanted to be remembered for a long, long time. He was not endowed with any special talents, did not shine with intelligence, and did not create anything that could become of great value over time. Then he decided: “Since I cannot create anything, then I will destroy what has been created! And people will remember this all their lives, regretting the loss.” This man's name was Herostratus. And we remember this name today only because he burned the Temple of Artemis in Ephesus. This happened 200 years after the opening of the Temple in 550 BC. The temple was badly damaged by the fire, and Alexander the Great ordered its restoration at all costs. And the Temple of Artemis of Ephesus was rebuilt! It stood for over five centuries and was finally destroyed by order of Emperor Theodosius I, as a pagan temple, and a strong earthquake that happened a little later turned the remains of the once magnificent structure into ruins.

In the background, behind the Temple of Artemis of Ephesus, you can clearly see the large building of another temple, erected in the 1st century by the Roman emperor Justinian over the tomb of St. John, a disciple of Christ, one of the apostles of the Christian church, who, after the ascension of Christ, arrived here with the mother of Jesus, Mary. At the foot of Mount Bulbul, not far from the ruins of Ephesus, at an altitude of 400 meters above sea level, is the House of Mary, where she lived in recent years. The house was shaped like a cross. The L-shaped part of the house has been preserved, in which today there is a small church, as they say, right in the part where St. Mary’s room was. There is a beautiful and well-kept park around the house. There is a holy spring in it, the waters of which heal the ailments of believers, there is a wall of wish fulfillment, at which they tie a ribbon with a knot and ask the Mother of God for help.

Believers of all faiths come to Mary’s House - Christians, Catholics, and Muslims. This is true holy place, being in which you feel the presence of the Holy Spirit and unity with God. Saint John lived 107 years preaching the teachings of Christ. And he died of his own free will, convincing his disciples to bury him alive. But they could not stand it, and, tormented by remorse, dug up the grave two days later. The grave was empty. Traces of Christianity are present throughout the territory of modern Turkey. The respectful attitude of Muslims in a now secular state towards the shrines of another religion, once persecuted and persecuted, has made it possible to preserve many architectural monuments, priceless frescoes depicting the face of Christ, biblical scenes and the very memory of names dear to every Christian. And Ephesus is one of these places. The very fact that Mary herself walked on the marble slabs of the city streets of Ephesus evokes spiritual awe. When alone, when accompanied by John, who, according to the instructions of Jesus, became her adopted son, she, like any woman living at that time, walked around the city about her business - to buy something for the household, to talk to someone or listen to what They say.

Climate. Weather conditions in the region do not differ from other regions Aegean coast. In winter it is warm and humid here, and the thermometer rarely drops below +10 degrees. In summer, the air temperature regularly goes beyond +30, so to visit the ancient ruins, it is better to choose early morning or evening.

How to get there. Transport. Closest to Ephesus international airport is located in Izmir, at a distance of 80 km. From there most convenient option transportation is represented by bus and railway. A more romantic way is to take a ferry to the port of Kusadasi, and from there by bus to Selcuk. Further, 3 km on foot or by taxi.

The Temple of Hadrian, quite well preserved to this day, was built in 138 AD. The Corinthian-style temple was built in honor of Emperor Hadrian, whose statue is unfortunately lost, like the statues of other emperors placed in the temple. On the other side of the Temple are the so-called “Houses on the Hillside”, or “Houses of the Rich”. Each of the houses in this part of Ephesus serves as a terrace for the house next to it. In the rooms of many houses frescoes and reliefs were discovered, representing either the owners of the houses or scenes from famous plays.

While walking around Ephesus, you will probably be shown a brothel, whose ruins still cause fierce debate between scientists and local guides. Both of them have a lot of evidence of the correctness of their theory (scientists consider these ruins to be an ordinary house, while guides accept it only as a public one), including images of an erotic nature, and small rooms of the house, and even underground passage from the library, designed to deceive suspicious wives.

Ephesus is one of the few cities where tourists can admire the ancient city street, which has remained almost unchanged for 20 centuries. Kuretov Street stretches from the library to the agora, and delights tourists not only with a paved marble road, but also with picturesque ruins and pedestals on both sides. Unfortunately, the statues that used to decorate the street are now in the museum, so you won’t be able to admire them in their original form. However, Kuretov Street is impressive even without them and conveys the spirit of antiquity.

The Prytanium is where Roman officials and offices worked, and where important banquets and meetings were held. The ruins of this important building are still visible in Ephesus, as is the Temple of Hestia, where a fire once burned constantly.

On southwest coast modern Turkey lies the ancient Greek city of Ephesus. It was once the fourth largest city of the Eastern Roman Empire. It was the largest spiritual and cultural center of the entire Mediterranean. Today it is a museum under open air, which includes one of the seven wonders of the world - the Temple of Artemis.

Geographical location

Ancient city located on the Aegean coast in Turkey. It is 7 km from the sea and 20 km from the Aegean port. Just 3 km from the ancient city is the Selcuk district. The cities closest to Ephesus are Kusadasi, Izmir, Bodrum, Pamukkale, Antalya, Marmaris.

Distance from Ephesus to various resorts.

Ephesus, Türkiye

How to get to Ephesus

There are many ways to get to the place, as the ancient Greek city is popular among travelers. The airport closest to the area is Izmir. From there you can come to public transport from the bus station. You can take a taxi.

If an airport is not needed and the tourist is already in Selcuk or Kusadasi, then this is as easy as shelling pears. You can walk from Selcuk, because the distance is only 4.5 km. You can take a local dolmus bus from Kusadasi, located 17 km from the resort. From Kusadasi to Ephesus, travel costs 5 liras (as of August 2018) and takes about 30 minutes.

Resort climate

Note! The climate in Ephesus is subtropical Mediterranean. There are no sudden temperature changes. IN holiday season There is very little precipitation, but in winter it is time for warm rains. Summer here is hot up to +35 during the day, with the peak temperature rise occurring at the end of July and August.

On a summer day in Ephesus it is difficult to find shade as there is little vegetation. Some vacationers even take umbrellas and a fan with them to escape the scorching sun. Therefore, it is better to come here in the last months of spring or late autumn. This way, excursions will not seem tiring due to the heat.

Sights of Ephesus

Mostly history buffs come to the ancient city. In the past, it accommodated up to 250 thousand people. Over the centuries, the Romans, Persians, and Lydians sought to gain power over the city. However, he managed to retain some freedom and self-government. Ephesus became famous as a religious center not only among ancient peoples. During the period of the spread of Christianity, it was the main center in all of Greece.

Ephesus on the map of Turkey in Russian

Interesting to know! According to legend, Ephesus was founded by the son of the Athenian ruler Androcles, who fell in love with an Amazon. Her name was Efisia, and accordingly, the city was named after her.

Today, Ephesus is one of the largest historical complexes. It has 2 entrances, but it is more convenient to take the lower road to explore the historical values.

Entrance to the territory of Ephesus is paid; tickets can be purchased at the self-service ticket office. The ticket price is 30 liras*. Additionally, you will have to pay 5 liras* for entrance to the terraces, the archeology museum and for visiting the Basilica of St. John.

Museum opening hours:

• 8:30 – 19:00 from April to October;
• 8:30 – 17:00 from November to March.

Temple of Artemis at Ephesus

The description of all the sights of the city begins with it, because it is the 3rd wonder of the world. The temple was built 27 centuries ago in honor of the Ancient Greek goddess Artemis of Ephesus. She was worshiped as the goddess of prosperity and fertility.

• Herostratus burned it, only to leave his name for centuries;
• in the 260s The temple was plundered by the Goths.

After the first destruction, Alexander the Great himself expressed a desire to restore the temple. He allocated his own money for this. All proportions and sizes have been preserved. It stretched 18 meters in height and was more than 100 meters long. The temple stood on 127 columns. Today, only 1 column remains from it, the same one that remained from the fire of Herostratus.

Ruins of the Temple of Artemis

House of the Holy Virgin Mary

One of the main Christian attractions in Turkey is located in Ephesus. This place is revered by Christians, because according to legend, the Mother of God spent the last years of her life here. John, in order to protect the Virgin Mary from persecution, brought her to this port city.

Today, the renovated building attracts not only followers of Christianity, but also all tourists. Behind the house with the church there is a wishing wall. Visitors here ask the Mother of God for help and tie memorial ribbons on the wall.

Amphitheaters of Ephesus

Odeon (Bouleuterium)

The Odeon was built in the 2nd century. BC e. The theater has two levels, divided into four sections. In ancient times, the small theater was used for meetings of the Senate and could accommodate 5,000 people. In between speeches by politicians, plays, concerts and religious ceremonies were held here.

House of the Virgin Mary in Ephesus

Bolshoi Theater

In the 3rd century BC. e. The largest amphitheater in the region was built. Once upon a time, the upper rows of the building reached a height of 30 meters, today only up to 18. The three-tiered building accommodated 25 thousand spectators who watched gladiator fights, performances and concerts.

Library of Celsus

The building was erected at the beginning of the second century and was named in honor of a prominent statesman - Tiberius Julius Celsus. The library became a repository for 12 thousand scrolls and the tomb of Julius Celsus. The building also included a lecture hall and an underground passage to the brothel.

The Goths burned the old building to the ground, leaving only the façade. A two-story facade decorated with sculptures of the muses of Wisdom, Virtue, Knowledge and Thought - favorite place for photo shoots of tourists.

Additional attractions in Ephesus

Excursions from the city: Ephesus - Pamukkale

What to see in Pamukkale?

• Thermal springs. There are only 17 of them. The antiquity is located on white travertine (sedimentary rock) terraces. These ruins are listed as objects world heritage UNESCO, their beauty is beyond description. The water of the springs changes its temperature depending on the season. Tourists will be interested in walking barefoot along mineral springs and take pictures of the blue cascades of terraces.
• Cleopatra's pool. According to legend, Cleopatra herself stayed here during her travels around Rome. Hundreds of tourists also dream of taking a dip in the thermal pool, so it is always crowded. It's better to come early in the morning or later in the evening.
• Ancient city of Hierapolis. The polis (from ancient Greek - city) is located above the travertine terraces. The city was built during the heyday of the Roman Empire. Later it will become part of Byzantium.

In Hierapolis you should definitely visit:

• the Triton Fountain, located to the left of the entrance to the city;
• amphitheater. The huge structure once accommodated up to 20 thousand spectators. The most noble and honored guests sat on a special dais (even emperors visited it);
• Sacred spring Nympheon. According to legend, the spring was protected by nymphs, hence its name. Statues of nymphs and the remains of a fountain have survived to this day;
• Temple of the God Pluto. The place is covered in legends and stories. After all, Pluto is God underworld, lord of human life and death. Carbon dioxide comes out of a crevice in the rock, the intense fumes of which are poisonous to birds and animals. The ancient priests used this to prove their power to ordinary residents of the city.

Cost of visiting Hieropolis complexes

To visit the city of Hieropolis you need to pay 35 lire (as of 2018). Travertine terraces are included in the ticket. Cleopatra's pool is paid separately - 33 liras per person. The city ruins of Hieropolis are open 24/7.

Thermal springs of Pamukkale

There are no separate types of entertainment in the city of Ephesus, since its main value is history. Therefore, it is worth visiting for lovers of antiquities, architecture and beautiful artifacts.

• When visiting the city with small children, you need to take enough water, wet wipes, and a Panama hat. Otherwise, the child may overheat in the sun.
• A tour of Ephesus takes approximately 3-4 hours. It's better to arrive early, closer to opening, before it gets too hot.
• There are many attractions here, so be sure to take a fully charged camera with you.

In Ephesus, Turkish holidays take on new meaning; every stone of the city is imbued with history, legends, and mystery.

*Prices are as of August 2018.

Legend about the founding of the city

During excavations in recent years, settlements of the Early Bronze Age were found near Ayazuluk Hill. In 1954, not far from the ruins of the Basilica of St. John, a cemetery from the Mycenaean era (1500-1400 BC) was found. Among the finds were ceramics.

Judging by Hittite sources, the city was called Apasha (Apasa), from where the later "Ephesus" comes, and was short time the capital of the confederation or kingdom of Arzawa, hostile to the Hittites and allied to the Achaeans.

During the Post-Hittite Bronze Age, Ephesus was the capital of a small Carian state, then settled by Ionian Greeks from Athens.

Hellenic period

In the 10th century BC. e. A Greek colony was founded on Ayazuluk Hill, three kilometers from the center of ancient Ephesus, as confirmed by excavations in the 1990s at Selcuk Castle. Around 650 BC. e. Ephesus was attacked and destroyed by the Cimmerians. The Temple of Artemis was also destroyed. The Ephesus Archaeological Museum contains several Cimmerian finds.

After the expulsion of the Cimmerians, tyranny established in the city. The following tyrants from the Basilid family (sometimes called kings) are known:

• Melas I - married to King Lydia's sister Gyges
• Miletus - married to the king's sister Lydia Sadiatta
• Pythagoras - briefly seized power around 600 BC. e. and apparently did not belong to the Basilid family
• Melas II - married to King Lydia's daughter Aliatta III
• Pindar - son of Melas II, ruled until the conquest of the city by the Lydian king Croesus (c. 560 BC)
• Melas III - son of Pindar, protege of the Lydian king Croesus, reigned until 555 BC. e.
• Aristarchus - reigned from 555 BC. e.
• Athenagoras - ruled as a vassal of the Persians
• Comas - ruled as a vassal of the Persians
• Melancom - ruled as a vassal of the Persians, con. V century BC e.

Periodically, during uprisings, the city tried to free itself from tyranny and power passed to a council called Curet. The city flourished, and the work of such notable people as Callinus (elegiac poet), Hipponax (satirist), Heraclitus (philosopher), Parrhasius (painter), Zenodotus (philologist and poet), physicists Soranus of Ephesus and Rufus dates back to this time.

In 394 BC. e. The Ephesians took part in the campaign of Conon, who overthrew the hegemony of Sparta. According to the Antalcidian world in 387 BC. e. Ephesus again recognized the power of Persia. The city then fell under the rule of the tyrant Sirfax.

The revolt in Ephesus, which began after the treacherous murder of Agathocles, son of Lysimachus, gave Seleucus I Nicator, another general of Alexander the Great and founder of the Seleucid dynasty, the chance to eliminate his rival and subjugate Asia Minor. Lysimachus died at the Battle of Kouroupedion in 281 BC. e., after which the city became part of the Seleucid state and again began to be called Ephesus. However, already in 263 BC. e. Ephesus was captured by Pharaoh Ptolemy III and until 197 BC. e. was under Egyptian rule.

Christianity in Ephesus

Since the 50s AD. e. Ephesus is an important center of early Christianity. In 52-54. The Apostle Paul lived here, engaged in missionary work. The Apostle John also lived here, and perhaps it was here that he wrote his Gospel. He is buried in the church named after him [ source?] . Ephesus was also one of the seven cities mentioned in the Revelation of John the Theologian (2:1). The Apostle John could not be buried in Ephesus, since he spent the last days of his life in exile on the island of Patmos, where, according to legend, he was buried alive, and when the grave was dug up a few days later, his body was not found.

According to some medieval legends, the Virgin Mary, Mother of Jesus Christ, lived her last years in this city. The world's first church, consecrated in the name of the Mother of God, was built here. The stories about the seven sleeping youths and the life of Lazarus of Galicia are associated with this area.

A council was convened at Ephesus in 431 to decide whether Jesus was only divine or also human. “On this issue the church split: roughly speaking, the bishops east of Suez supported Nestorius, and the bishops west of Suez supported St. Cyril... The Western bishops appeared first, locked the doors for latecomers and hastily made a decision in favor of St. Kirill, who presided over the meetings of the council. "Third Ecumenical Council

House of the Virgin Mary

During His crucifixion, Jesus Christ commanded His Mother to take care of John as her own son, and John to take care of Mary as her own mother. Since the apostles divided the territories among themselves for the spread of Christianity, and the territory of Asia Minor went to John, he settled the Virgin Mary in Ephesus, where She lived the last years of her life.

Currently, in this area (7 km from the city) there is a small church, which is a place of pilgrimage for Christians. Muslims in these places also treat it with deep respect as a shrine. A spring has also been preserved, the water from which is healing. Near it there is a wish wall, where everyone can make a wish by attaching a knot of any material to specially installed bars.

Population

5,000 people ± 200 people.

Notable residents and natives:

• Kallin (elegiac poet)
• Hipponax (satirist)
• Heraclitus (philosopher)
• Parrhasius (artist)
• Zenodotus (philologist and poet)

Attractions

There are many archaeological sites preserved in Ephesus. The city is especially rich in monuments from the Roman era; among the cities of the eastern Mediterranean there are the most of them. Not everything has been excavated yet, but what can be seen gives some idea of ​​the former splendor of the city.

Celsus Library

Celsus Library

Odeon

The semicircular structure, also known as the Small Theater, stands on the hillside, north of the Agora. Judging by the inscription, it was built in 150 AD. e. Publius Vedius Antony. The original purpose of the odeon was the bouleuterium - the meeting place of the city Senate. The first indoor building, designed for 1,400 seats, was used alternately: either for meetings of the Senate or for theatrical performances. The architectural design of the odeon is similar to classical models:

• the auditorium with its two-tiered semicircle of rows, divided into four main sectors by staircases;
• the design of the proscenium suggests that the structure was intended for the meetings of the Senate rather than for theatrical performances.

Agora

The ruins of the Agora are Romanesque structures from the Roman Empire period, most likely built during the reigns of the emperors Augustus and Claudius. The agora, which was finally built up under Theodosius (IV century), was decorated with a double colonnade of a portico, under which shopping arcades were located. It was a center of trading activity, where merchants from all over the Empire gathered. There was also a slave market and meetings were held on occasions of religious and secular holidays. To the north of the Agora are the ruins of the colonnade of the Basilica, built during the dynasty of the Augustan emperors.

Theater

Theater ruins

In fact, this is, apparently, just the favorite legend (“fable”) of all tour guides. It is unlikely, according to historians, that it was a brothel; most likely, just the house of rich townspeople. And also the fact that in one of its rooms there are portraits of a man and a woman (ostensibly speaking about the occupation in this house), is not necessarily a symbol of a brothel, since in rich houses such an image was always present, namely portraits of the owners. The small rooms referred to in the legends are also not necessarily lovemaking rooms, since they are actually the standard size for such rich houses. Also in this house were found figurines of the god of fertility (with a large reproductive organ) and this, too, according to many guides, is evidence that this building was a brothel. But again, historians say that many matrimonial bedrooms of that period were decorated with such figurines.

Kuretov Street

Gate of Hercules

At a certain time, the prytane chewed opium, and, drunk and dancing, they walked from the prytane to the Temple of Artemis. If at this time the clergyman was noticed by a criminal who was being taken to execution, then he was released.

Temple of Artemis

Ruins of the Temple of Artemis in Ephesus

Only one inconspicuous column survived from the Temple of Artemis, one of the Seven Wonders of the World. The column was found during archaeological excavations carried out by the British Museum in the 1870s. Minor fragments of the frieze and several other small finds are partly in the British Museum, partly in the Istanbul Archaeological Museum.

Notes

Links

The ancient city of Ephesus (Turkey) is located in the western part of the Asia Minor peninsula, also known by its Greek name Antalya. By modern standards it is small - its population barely reaches 225 thousand people. However, thanks to its history and the monuments preserved in it from past centuries, it is one of the most visited cities in the world by tourists.

City of the Fertility Goddess

In ancient times, it was founded by the Greeks in the 11th century BC. e., the city was famous for the cult of the local who flourished here, who eventually incarnated herself as the goddess of fertility Artemis. This generous and hospitable celestial woman in the 6th century BC. e. residents of the city built a temple, recognized as one of

The city of Ephesus reached unprecedented prosperity in the 6th century BC. e., when it came under the rule of the Lydian king Croesus, who captured it, whose name in modern language has become synonymous with wealth. This ruler, immersed in luxury, spared no expense and decorated his temples with new sculptures, and acted as a patron of science and art. Under him, the city was glorified by many outstanding personalities, such as the ancient philosopher Heraclitus and the ancient poet Kallin.

City life in the first centuries AD

However, the peak of the city’s development occurred in the 1st-2nd centuries AD. e. During this period, it was part of the Roman Empire, and a lot of money was spent on its improvement, thanks to which aqueducts, the library of Celsus, thermal baths - ancient baths were built, and also rebuilt. One of the many city attractions was its main street, which went down to the port and was decorated columns and porticoes. It was named after the Roman Emperor Arcadius.

The city of Ephesus is mentioned several times in the New Testament, in particular in the books “The Acts of the Apostles” and “The Revelations of John the Evangelist,” also known as the “Apocalypse.” The first followers of Christ began to appear in it during the period of the Savior’s earthly ministry, and in 52-54 the Apostle Paul lived and preached the word of God in the city. Researchers also have reason to believe that the man who died and was buried in Ephesus wrote his Gospel here. Sacred Tradition connects this city with the last years of the life of the Blessed Virgin Mary - the Mother of Jesus Christ.

The sea that left the city

At the founding of Ephesus, the city of Artemis, it was founded on the shores of the Aegean Sea and was the largest port center of antiquity. But then the unexpected happened - either the goddess quarreled with the supreme ruler Zeus, and he poured out his anger on the city, or the reasons were of a natural order, but only in the 6th century AD. e. the harbor suddenly became shallow and overgrown with silt.

Residents had to move their homes to a new location, located near the current Turkish city of Selcuk, starting construction on Ayasoluk Hill. But the sea still continued to recede, depriving this ancient city of most of its income. Ephesus gradually fell into decay. Landslides and earthquakes completed the job, covering its ruins with sand and reliably preserving it for future archaeologists.

Forgotten ancient monument

The job was completed by the Arabs, who in the 7th century intensified their raids and finally destroyed what the hand of the blind elements had not yet reached. Seven centuries later, the Ottoman Empire captured a large part of Asia Minor, including the territory where the city of Ayasoluk, neighboring Ephesus, was located.

From that time on, it began to develop, but within the framework of the Islamic tradition. Mosques, caravanserais and Turkish baths appeared on its streets. Another hundred years later the city was renamed, and it received its current name Selchuk, and the city of Ephesus was completely abandoned and fell asleep for several centuries under a layer of sand blown here by the hot wind.

Excavations of an enthusiastic archaeologist

The history of archaeological excavations on the territory of the ancient city dates back to 1863. Their initiator was the British engineer and architect John Turtle Wood, who designed buildings in Turkey railway stations. Having set out to find the Ephesus mentioned in the New Testament, he received permission from the local authorities to carry out the work.

The task was not an easy one, because the only information he had was information about where the city of Ephesus was located, but he did not have any specific information about its layout and buildings.

A city that has risen from oblivion

Three years later, the first reports of John Wood's discoveries spread around the world, and from that time on, the city of Ephesus, where outstanding monuments of Hellenic culture were created in previous centuries, attracted everyone's attention.

To this day, the city has preserved many unique monuments dating back to the Roman period of its history. Even though much remains to be unearthed, what appears today is striking in its magnificence and provides an opportunity to imagine the grandeur and splendor of this city in its heyday.

The theater and the Marble Street leading to it

One of the main attractions of Ephesus is the ruins of its theater, built in the Hellenic period, but which underwent significant reconstruction during the reign of the Roman emperors Domitian and his successor Trajan. This truly grandiose structure could accommodate twenty-five thousand spectators, and in a later period it was part of the city wall.

Anyone who entered the City of Ephesus by sea could proceed from the port to the theater along a four-hundred-meter street lined with marble slabs. The trading shops that stood on its sides alternated with statues of ancient gods and ancient heroes, striking the eyes of visitors with their perfection. By the way, the residents of the city were not only aesthetes, but also quite practical people - during excavations under the street they discovered a fairly developed sewage system.

Library - a gift from the Roman Emperor

Among others cultural centers In the ancient world, the city of Ephesus was also known for its library, which received the name of Celsus Polemean, the father of the Roman emperor Titus Julius, who built it in memory of him and installed his sarcophagus in one of the halls. It should be noted that the burial of the dead in public buildings was an extremely rare occurrence in the Roman Empire, and was allowed only in cases of special merit of the deceased.

The fragments of the building that have survived to this day are part of the façade, richly decorated with allegorical figures placed in niches. At one time, the collection of the Celsus library included twelve thousand scrolls, stored not only in cabinets and shelves, but also right on the floor of its vast halls.

Temple guarded by Medusa the Gorgon

In addition to the Temple of Artemis, which was the hallmark of the city in ancient times, many more religious buildings were built in Ephesus. One of them is the Sanctuary of Hadrian, the ruins of which can be seen when turning off Marble Street. Its construction dates back to 138 AD. e. Only a few surviving fragments remain of the former splendor of this pagan temple.

Among them are four Corinthian columns supporting a triangular pediment with a semicircular arch in the middle. Inside the temple you can see a bas-relief of the Gorgon Medusa guarding the temple, and on the opposite wall there are images of various ancient gods, in one way or another connected with the founding of the city. Previously, there were also statues of very real rulers of the world - the Roman emperors Maximian, Diocletian and Gallery, but today they have become exhibits of the city museum.

The area of ​​the richest residents of the city of Ephesus

The history of the city during the period of Roman rule was immortalized in a sculptural complex built near the entrance to the Temple of Hadrian, surrounding the Fountain of Trojan. In the center of the composition stood a marble statue of this emperor, from which a stream of water rose to the sky. Around her, in respectful poses, were statues of the immortal inhabitants of Olympus. Today these sculptures also decorate museum halls.

Opposite the Temple of Hadrian there were houses in which a select part of Ephesian society lived. In modern terms, it was an elite quarter. Situated on a hillside, the buildings were designed in such a way that the roof of each of them served as an open terrace for the neighboring one located a level below. The perfectly preserved mosaic that lined the sidewalk in front of the houses gives an idea of ​​the luxury in which their inhabitants lived.

The buildings themselves were richly decorated with frescoes and various sculptural images, some of which have survived to this day. Their subjects included, in addition to the traditional ancient deities in such cases, also images of outstanding people of the past. For example, one of them depicts the ancient Greek philosopher Socrates.

Christian shrines of the city

In this city, monuments of ancient paganism and the Christian culture that replaced it miraculously coexist side by side, one of which is Ioanna. In the 6th century, Emperor Justinian I ordered its construction on the spot where the holy apostle, the author of the Apocalypse, as well as one of the Gospels, was supposedly buried.

But the main Christian shrine of Ephesus, undoubtedly, is the house in which, according to legend, the Mother of Jesus Christ, the Blessed Virgin Mary, spent her last years. As the legend says, already on the Cross the Savior entrusted the care of Her to his beloved disciple, the Apostle John, and he, sacredly keeping the Teacher’s order, transported her to his home in Ephesus.

There is also a very beautiful legend associated with one of the caves located on the slope of a nearby mountain. According to popular belief, during the days of persecution of Christianity, seven young men who professed the true faith were saved in it. To protect them from imminent death, the Lord sent them into a deep sleep, in which they spent two centuries. Young Christians awakened and were already in complete safety - their faith had by that time become the state religion.

Perhaps the most popular and visited, after the beauties of Istanbul, historical place Turkey is the ancient city of Ephesus. Concurrently, it is also the largest preserved historical site in Asia Minor - the area of ​​the restored territory is more than 10,000 m2. Currently, this place is visited annually by hundreds of thousands of tourists from all over the world and its popularity does not fade. Everyone wants to touch history and feel the breath of antiquity.

Ephesus is located a couple of kilometers from the town of Selcuk in the province of Aydin. You can get to it yourself by bus from Kusadasi or Izmir. Although, as a rule, this is not necessary - to Ephesus are organized by absolutely all tour operators and travel agencies in Turkey. In addition, in order to at least roughly navigate the place without the help of a professional tour guide, you need to read quite a lot of special historical literature, so it’s best to purchase separately.

The legend of the founding of Ephesus

There is a very beautiful legend about the circumstances under which this city was founded. A long time ago, more than three thousand years ago, the son of the last Athenian ruler Codra Androcles decided to found his own kingdom and received a prophecy from the Delphic Oracle about the possibility of founding a new city where fire, fish and wild boar would unite at the same time. He set sail, and when he reached Anatolia, he landed on the most picturesque shore. There was a small fishing village nearby, and not far from the shore the villagers were frying fish. Tired travelers were invited to share a meal. When a gust of wind carried the sparks from the fire towards the neighboring bushes, a wild boar jumped out squealing. Then Androcles realized that he had found the right place.

However, not everything was so simple, and the newly created colony did not flourish for long. In those places, great damage was caused to cities and tribes by a nomadic tribe of warlike Amazons. Stories about fearless women warriors have long excited the inhabitants of Hellas. But the brave Androcles did not give in - he was able to seduce the leader of the Amazons, the beautiful Ephesia. Together they founded great city, which the young king named after his beloved. Many colonists also took former warriors as wives, and those who did not want to part with their saddle and weapons became the royal bodyguards or priestesses of Artemis.

Variations and excerpts from this legend were widely used by artists, sculptors and poets throughout the ancient period. And it is not possible to judge what is true and what is fiction. Disputes about the time and place of the founding of Ephesus are still going on.

The fact remains undeniable that Ephesus grew from a small colony into largest port city, which has long prospered through shipping and trade.

Temple of Artemis of Ephesus

The hallmark of Ephesus is considered to be the almost completely lost temple of the goddess Artemis - one of the seven wonders of the world. The cult of Artemis, according to legend, was widely practiced by the mythical founder of the city, King Androcles. He built the first temple on the site of the future wonder of the world. However, due to constant destructive wars, the sanctuary was destroyed and rebuilt several times. As it turns out, this is the permanent fate of this legendary structure.

The last, and most important, reconstruction was sponsored by the Lydian rich man - King Croesus (in the 6th century BC). The best architects of that time worked on the construction of the temple; the construction itself lasted a hundred years and ended with a triumphant celebration in honor of the opening of the temple. Its decoration was amazing, and a special decoration was the famous colonnade of 127 columns, each of which was a gift from the Hellenic king. The large statue of Artemis was made of gold and ivory. However, the temple in its original form did not stand for even two hundred years - in 356 BC. e. it was burned by the madman Herostratus. By order of Alexander the Great, the temple was rebuilt at the beginning of the 3rd century BC. and became even more beautiful, but this time it did not last long. Unfortunately, after all the cataclysms and robberies, only one single column and part of the foundation remained from the colossal structure. A model of the lost wonder of the world can be seen in Turkish national museum Miniature.

Main attractions of Ephesus

The most popular and iconic landmark of Ephesus, its symbol and key image, is without a doubt the Library of Celsus. It was built at the beginning of the Roman period during the reign of Emperor Hadrian. It must be said that this emperor, like no other, left a big mark on the cultural and architectural history of Asia Minor.

Tiberius Julius Aquila began building the library for his father Tiberius Julius Celsius in 114. Unfortunately, he never managed to complete the construction during his lifetime, but bequeathed a large sum money for its continuation, the purchase of books and the further maintenance of the library. The heirs carried out the will of Aquila and the library opened in 135. At one time, more than 12,000 scrolls were kept there, making it the second largest in the world after Alexandria.

Celsius himself was a very famous and educated man in Ephesus, he did a lot for the development and prosperity of the city. Therefore, despite the state ban on burying the dead within the city, he was buried in a marble sarcophagus on the first floor of the library.

150 years later, the library building was almost completely destroyed by fire. However, the marble façade was well preserved and was restored after excavations.

Another iconic landmark of Ephesus that has survived to this day is the huge ancient theater with 25,000 seats. Gladiator fights were held here during the day, and performances and musical performances were held in the evenings. By and large, many public places and administrative buildings of the ancient city have been perfectly preserved. In addition to the aforementioned library and theater, you can see the meeting area - the agora, the small amphitheater - the odeon, the ancient town hall - the prytanium, the temple of Emperor Hadrian, the temple of the goddess Hestia and the Basilica of St. John. Also, the main street of the city and some residential buildings have undergone few changes.

House of the Virgin Mary in Ephesus

Not far from Ephesus on Mount Panair there is another unique place that tourists are eager to visit. History says that after the crucifixion of Jesus Christ, when persecution began in Jerusalem, the Virgin Mary and John the Baptist moved to Ephesus. The Virgin Mary settled in a house not far from the city, and John began to preach, as he had been bequeathed. Here she lived until her Assumption, before which she returned back to Jerusalem.

Since ancient times, on the slopes of Mount Panair, residents revered a holy spring, the purest water of which could heal diseases. At the end of the 19th century, during excavations near the spring, the remains of a residential building and hearths were discovered, subsequently dating back to the 1st century AD. e. Now a Catholic chapel stands on this site and pilgrims from all over the world flock here all year round: from Spain, Italy, Mexico, Brazil, France and other countries. On the territory of the chapel you can buy religious paraphernalia with the image of the Virgin Mary, draw holy water from the source and make a cherished wish by tying a ribbon on the wishing wall.

Despite the fact that the Vatican did not officially recognize this place as the home of the Virgin Mary, some popes still visited it.

Decline of Ephesus and hope for the future

At its height, Ephesus was one of the 12 largest cities on the territory of Asia Minor of the Ionian period, its population reached 200 thousand people, which in those days equated the city to a metropolis. However, after a strong earthquake, the sea receded, the harbor became shallow and turned into swamps, and the city itself had to be moved to the mountain. After this, Ephesus was no longer able to regain its former greatness and gradually turned into an abandoned village. The constant wars between the Hellenic peoples and a series of imperial conquests brought him a lot of destruction.

Despite the fact that excavations and restoration work have been going on for many years, scientists believe that more than 50% of the territory of the ancient city still remains underground and swamps. Who knows, it is quite possible that great discoveries and new ones await us. historical facts about this wonderful city.