Everest description. The dizzying heights of Everest

Everyone knows about the existence of the highest point Everest from school. About where, in what country Everest is located and what interesting facts connected with the peak, we will find out today.

The mountain has another name - Chomolungma, it is part of the Himalayan mountain system. Since Everest is located right on the Nepal-China border, it is difficult to name the exact location. A feature of the steepest southern slope of the mountain is the shape of a triangular pyramid. There is an opinion that the highest peak is located in the Tibet Autonomous Region and belongs to China.

History of the origin of the name of the mountain

Mount Everest bears the name of an Englishman who studied the geodesy of this area. The second name – Chomolungma – comes from the Tibetan expression “qomo ma lung”, which means “Divine Mother of Life”.

Interestingly, the highest peak on Earth also has a third name: Sagarmatha. Translated from Nepali it sounds like “Mother of the Gods”. Such names confirm that the ancient inhabitants of Nepal and Tibet associated a high mountain with the manifestation of a supreme deity.

According to the official version, the height of Everest, including glacial deposits, is 8848 m above sea level. At the same time, pure rock rises to 8844 m in height.

The first conquerors

Everest was first conquered by a resident of New Zealand, E. Hillary, and a Sherpa, a local resident of the vicinity of Chomolungma, T. Norgay. The first ascent occurred in 1953. Then began the era of numerous records set during the conquest of the highest peak:

• climbing the most difficult route;
• conquering the summit without oxygen cylinders;
• age records of conquerors, etc.

How to conquer Everest?

Knowing where Everest is located, we can conclude: the path to the top is not entirely easy, as it might seem at first. You will have to wait several years for the opportunity to conquer the peak after you register in advance.

The most in a simple way Making your dream come true is the opportunity to join an expedition, which is formed by specialized commercial firms with the organization of training, the provision of special equipment, and ensuring safety when climbing to the top.

The authorities of China and Nepal use potential Everest conquerors as a source of good income. For example, the cost of passage to the foot of the mountain with subsequent permission and ascent to Everest is about 60 thousand dollars.

There are many people who want to conquer the highest peak in the world. However, you need to evaluate your abilities realistically. In fact, this can be done by people who have special skills and experience in climbing high mountains.

Air

At the top of Everest there is low pressure, so there is 3 times less oxygen there than at normal altitude. Climbers have to take oxygen tanks with them to avoid suffocation. But in 1980, athlete Reinhold Messner managed to climb to the top without them and alone, and then successfully descended back.

Spiders

But for mountain spiders Euophrys omnisuperstes there is enough oxygen here. Another name for them is Himalayan jumping spiders. They live only here, at an altitude of up to 6700 meters, and feed on insects that accidentally get here due to the wind. Apart from them, only a few species of birds can withstand constant low pressure and minimal oxygen content.

Garbage

Climbers annually left behind 50 tons of garbage, practically non-decomposing: used oxygen cylinders, broken climbing equipment, and household waste. Nepal decided to fight this and forced each summit conqueror to bring back at least 8 kilograms of waste in exchange for the deposit previously left - $4,000.

Locals and climbers

From time to time, conflicts arise between Nepalese and mountain conquerors. For example, in 2013, things even came to blows when locals said that the ascent could cause an avalanche. The climbers, in turn, denied these statements. It came to the point of death threats, and the Nepalese military had to intervene, reconciling both sides.

Record

Apa Sherpa climbed to the top 21 times. He did this not only for the sake of the views from there, but also to monitor the consequences of global warming. He noted that melting snow and ice is making climbs more dangerous.

Popularity

May 19, 2012, despite the bad weather conditions, at the foot of the mountain there was a huge line of people wanting to climb Everest. They had to wait 2 hours before their turn. On that day, 234 people climbed to the top and four died.

Connection

Kenton Cool first tweeted from the top of Everest in 2011. Then he managed to catch a weak 3G signal. And already in 2013, the climber managed to make a call from the peak for the first time. Nepalese authorities later announced that this was done illegally.

Greetings, my curious readers, or as they say in China, “Nihao”. You're probably wondering why I suddenly started speaking Chinese? It's simple! Today I would like to tell you about the most beautiful and at the same time dangerous Mount Everest.

Everest, or as the locals call it Chomolungma, is considered highest point land above sea level. There are so many legends and stories around this amazing peak that you begin to think, “maybe I should risk conquering Everest?”

I’ll tell you right away to dreamers and just adventure lovers that even among trained professional climbers, not everyone will risk climbing Chomolungma. It is only in photographs and videos that climbers smile with happiness, standing among the non-melting ice. In reality, this is an extremely life-threatening activity. Only one attempt to climb Everest in ten is successful. In other cases, many simply turn back when there are several tens of meters left to the top.

Everest height above sea level

This is because the last meters are the most difficult and dangerous, and few people dare to risk their lives once again. The height of Everest above sea level, according to officially accepted data, is 8848 meters, but disputes are still ongoing. China, for example, believes that the height of the world's tallest mountain is four meters less. They carried out the measurement without taking into account the ice cap.

But the Americans established with the help of navigation instruments that Everest is two meters higher, the Italians, in general, consider the mountain to be eleven meters higher than the official figure. In general, while the debate continues, the official height remains the same. But every year, the mountain grows by several centimeters, due to the constant movement of lithospheric plates.

Chomolungma: some historical facts

It is known from history that Everest used to be the bottom of an ancient ocean. But due to the beginning of the movement of the titanic plates, when the Indian lithospheric plate collided with the Eurasian plate, the large Himalayan mountain range rose. And at its head was Everest. The plates continue to shift, so the mountain will only grow in the near future. Of course, if it weren't trampled by hundreds of tourists trying to climb to the top, it would grow faster. Kidding.

There are many fans in the world who dream of conquering this mountain at least once in their lives. mysterious mountain. But often their dreams are not destined to come true, and the main reason for this is... After all, a full-fledged expedition requires something like $100,000. And this does not include the fact that health must be simply ideal. At a minimum, you should calmly run 10 kilometers of cross-country. At least.

The most optimal period for climbing Everest

Everest is part of the large chain of the Himalayas. Everest itself is surrounded by younger brothers, so you can see the mountain in its full glory only by climbing the neighboring peaks.

In winter, the temperature at the peak of Everest can drop to -60 0 C. And in the summer at its peak warm month July does not rise above -19 0 C. But spring is considered the most suitable season for climbing. In summer there is frequent monsoon rainfall at the summit. And in the fall it is already dangerous, due to possible avalanches.

In which country is the highest Mount Everest located?

There was a lot of controversy here, because Nepal and China were at odds for a very long time, and when relative peace was established (although it looks more like occupation than peace), it was decided to draw the border right in the middle of the peak of Everest. Now officially the mountain is located on the territory of two states, and is equally considered the property of both countries. Southern part Everest is located in Nepal and the northern one is in Tibet, Autonomous Okrug China.

Until the mid-nineteenth century itself high mountain Knchenjunga was considered, but thanks to the Welsh mathematician George Everest, who proved that Everest is higher, the scientific world recognized this fact. The mountain was named after him.

Temperature at the top of Everest

In general, it’s not hot on Everest, let’s say. The temperature there never rises above 0 degrees. The coldest month is January. During this month, the average thermometer level is -36 degrees Celsius, and can drop to -60C. The warmest month is July. You can comfortably “warm up” at minus 19 degrees Celsius (average value).

Where is the most beautiful view of Everest?

To see how beautiful Everest is, there are several obstacles to overcome.

First- is to climb to the top of Kalapatthar.

It is from here that the view of the glacier opens up, as if Everest towers over the whole world.

Second– choose a good time for shooting, because due to poor visibility you can spend the whole day and not take a single photo. The weather in the mountains is constantly changing, and every minute here is worth its weight in gold.

Conquerors of Everest: the most famous Earth records

The first person to climb the peak of Everest was the scientist Edmund Hillary, accompanied by his assistant Sherpa Tenzing Norgay, local resident and guide.

The youngest conqueror of the peak is considered to be 13-year-old American Jordan Romnro. Of course, the Japanese also did not stand aside, and the oldest conqueror was the Japanese - 80-year-old Yuchiro Miura

The list goes on, a variety of records were set on the roof of our world. They used it to snowboard, send messages and photos to social media, and much more.

The one who put on a great show of freestyle snowboarding was Marco Siffredi. Not to be confused with Roko.

Look at the photos of both Mount Everest itself and its surroundings, which the Internet is full of, and you will understand why the mountain so attracts travelers all over the world. By the way, Yandex did something like virtual tour to Everest.

In terms of its significance, Everest can only be compared with, which is considered the deepest in the world.

Although Everest is considered the roof of the world, another mountain of significant height is Lhotse, which is its neighbor. AND famous volcano Russia and Europe - which is also one of the seven largest peaks in the world.

What does above sea level mean?

Interesting question, isn't it? Several centuries ago, scientists decided that it would be more correct to measure the height of land starting from the sea line. It's convenient and there are no unnecessary questions. After all, everything above the sea line is land and animals and people can live on it, and what is below is the seabed. Of course, it is also from the earth, but people cannot live there.

So, any measurement of the height of mountains and various ridges is measured exactly this way, from sea level. If the reporting point had been different, then Everest would no longer be the largest peak in the world. And its place would be taken by the famous Hawaiian volcano Mauna Kea, 4200 m high, going down another 6000 meters. Calculate the total yourself.

The unusual story of conquering the summit of Everest

During the civil war in , many centuries ago, when brother went against brother, one young guy fell in love with a beautiful girl, but they were not destined to be together due to the fact that their families were enemies. The girl also liked the guy. After all, he was brave and strong, and most importantly, he did not retreat from his love. Despite the prohibitions and enmity, he fought for his beloved.

But, unfortunately, the couple in love found out about their relationship and decided to forcibly marry the girl off and take her to her husband in another village. The girl managed to convey a message to her lover about this event. And the guy in love decided to steal his beloved and run away from the hostility and war that was imposed on them.

On the day when the wedding ceremony was to take place, the bride was transported in a special carriage to the place where the groom was waiting. But on the way, the cart was overtaken by a guy in love, who overcame the escort, took his girlfriend, and they rode as far as possible. But failure awaited them here, since the horse could not carry two people for a long time, so it quickly ran out of steam. And at this time a chase was sent for the fugitives.

And when the lovers were already catching up, the girl began to pray for their salvation. God, having heard such a sincere request to save his loved one, decided to help. Suddenly a strong whirlwind arose under the couple and carried them to the foot of Mount Chomolungma.

And since then, the mountaineers who live in the most sacred place believe that they were chosen by the gods. Therefore, traditions are still sacredly respected.

How much does it cost to conquer Everest?

Anyone who has read about Everest knows that the journey is not cheap. And with average calculations it will cost $100,000, or even more. Most of this amount will go towards the fee paid by every tourist who wants to conquer the highest mountain. It is $35,000 and is revised every year.

Of course, many of you will be outraged, “robbery” and so on. But even with such numbers, there are enough people willing, and their number is growing every year. But every climber who conquers Everest leaves behind mountains of garbage, and who will clean up? After all, you can’t deliver transport up the mountain, because the air is very thin. And not every person will dare to get up and clean up dirty tourists.

Of course, most of the equipment becomes unusable or simply unnecessary, for example, used oxygen cylinders, and lugging the extra load to the top is very difficult. After all, with each kilometer it becomes more difficult to walk, and weight matters when you climb the peak.

For each person, the rise can last differently, from a month to 4. It all depends on your health and experience in climbing other mountain peaks.

Well, if you still risk going on an expedition, then learn everything about the mountain itself and the payment in advance additional services guides and guides, not counting porters and the climbing equipment itself. Make an estimate for the ascent and go ahead!

Good luck in conquering Everest and remember the wisdom of the mountaineers who have lived there for many generations: “Everest has a soul, it honors the spirit and character of the person who decided to conquer it. And if you do it just because of vanity, the mountain will never submit to you!”.

I hope my article was useful to you and you will share it with your friends. Write your questions and subscribe to. See you again!

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Routes: 10 - classic

Everest(named after Sir George Everest) or Chomolungma(from Tibetan "Divine") or Sagarmatha(from Nepali "Mother of the Gods"). There was also a name Chomo-Kankar, which translated from Tibetan meant "mother is the queen of snowy whiteness".

For a long time (until 1903) the peak was called Gaurizankar, due to the fact that the traveler G. Schlagintveit put forward the version that the peaks of Everest and Gaurizankar are identical.

Everest is shaped like a pyramid; the southern slope is steeper. Glaciers flow down from the massif in all directions, ending at an altitude of about 5 thousand m. On the southern slope and edges of the pyramid, snow and firn are not retained, as a result of which they are exposed.

Everest and Lhotse will be connected by a four-kilometer bridge, in which there is a depression - the South Col (7986 m). The northern spur of the peak is called Lap-Chyi. In its short branch is the peak of Changtse (7538 m). Also in the area is one of the pearls of the Himalayas - the Pumori peak (7145 m).

The glaciation in the area is quite large. WITH northern slopes the grandiose Rongbuk glacier, highly branched in its upper reaches, descends towards the Tibetan Plateau. The Kanchung glacier descends to the east from Chomolungma. To the southwest of the massif there is an extensive glacial cirque known as the Western Cirque. It is the main feeding basin of the Khumbu Glacier.

The slopes of Qomolangma break off to the north and northwest with steep walls to the headwaters of the Rongbuk glacier, and to the east, to the headwaters of the Kanchung glacier, by a steep stepped rock wall. There are powerful ice-firn accumulations on the steps, so ice collapses are frequent here. To the southwest, towards the Western Circus, the slopes of the massif are terminated by cliffs of average steepness of 55°. There are many ice-filled couloirs on these rocks.

Located in National Park Sagarmatha. Map

Geology

Geologically the massif is complex:

• at its base granite,

• in the higher part there are gneisses,

• in the cover part with limestones.

Story

Initially, the peak was not considered the highest in the world; according to the results of the first topographic survey (1823-1843), it was included in the classifier as peak “XV” (Dhualagiri was in the lead on this list). And only after the second topographic survey (1845-1850) everything fell into place.

IN 1921 year, the first expedition to Chomolungma with the aim of reconnaissance of the ascent route from the north, from Tibet. Based on reconnaissance data, the British, under the leadership of Mallory, stormed the peak in 1922, but monsoon, snowfall and lack of experience in high-altitude climbing prevented them from making the ascent.

IN 1924 year - the third expedition to Chomolungma. The group spent the night at an altitude of 8125 m, the next day one of the participants (Norton) reached an altitude of 8527 m, but was forced to return. A few days later, a second attempt was made to storm the north-eastern ridge (the Mallory, Irwin team using oxygen cylinders), the climbers did not return, there is still an opinion that they could have been on the top of Chomolungma.

Subsequent pre-war expeditions to the area did not bring new results.

IN 1952 year - a Swiss expedition set out to storm Everest from the south. Twice in 1952, Lambert and Norgay Tenzing climbed above 8,000 meters, but on both occasions the weather forced them to turn around.

IN 1953 year - an English expedition led by Colonel Hunt set off for Everest (Qomolungma), they were also joined by New Zealand climbers, one of whom was E. Hillary, they were supposed to help the British cross the Khumbu Icefall, Sherpa Norgay Tenzing was included in the assault group . There is a legend that the conquest of Everest was prepared as a gift for Queen Elizabeth II on the day of her coronation.

On May 27, the first pair - the British Evans and Bourdillon - reached the southern peak, where they left oxygen and a tent for the next assault group.

The first ascent of Soviet climbers to the most high peak The land took place in May 1982. A Soviet team of 9 people climbed to the top of Everest along a very difficult, previously unclimbed route along the southwest face.

Mount Everest, other names Chomolungma (Chomolungma) or Sagarmatha, the highest peak in the world. Its height has been measured several times recently. Therefore, even in official materials there are three sets of numbers: 8848 m, 8850 m, 8844 m. The first of them is firmly embedded in our memory. The latter was measured from the Chinese side.

This question is not easy, because we are talking about the height of the highest mountain on Earth. And it is very correct that the interested parties agreed for the near future to conditionally consider the height to be 8848 meters.

Where does the British name come from?

The Himalayas is a very old word, that’s what they called and still call it highest mountains Indo-Aryans have been around the world for thousands of years. Maybe someone has already given a name to the highest peak of this mountainous country? Maybe this will open up over time.

Geologists believe that Everest began to form 60 million years ago, when the Indian plate began to collide with the Eurasian one. The Himalayas and other mountainous regions of Central Asia are recognized as young mountains.

In the late 40s of the 19th century, English surveyors measured the heights of peaks located on the border of Tibet and Nepal. It was part of a larger effort to map the outskirts of Britain's Indian possessions and part of a "great game" aimed against its rival for expansion in Asia, Russian Empire. For quite a long time, the materials were processed for several years, only in 1856 a report appeared containing information that the peak numbered XV reaches a height of 29,002 feet or 8,840 meters. It must be said that at that time neither Nepal nor Tibet allowed foreigners into their territory. Therefore, measurements were carried out from a distance of 170 -190 km, from the tops of the border mountains. The error in this case is determined within 300 meters. So the accuracy was almost incredible.

English surveyors did not find an unambiguous local name, like, say, Kanchenjunga. They searched poorly, they just really wanted to name the peak after themselves. However, this could not be done without long discussions. Years passed and only in 1865 the head of geodetic services, Andrew Waugh, managed to agree with the Royal Geographical Society to name the peak Mount Everest. In honor of the services of one of the most outstanding explorers in this region, George Everest (1790 - 1866).

George Everest ended up in India in 1806. At first he was an artillery cadet, then he was sent to the geodetic service. In 1818 Everest became assistant director and in 1823 director of the GreatTrigonometricalSurvey. It was under his leadership that over the next 20 years, an unprecedented action at that time was carried out to survey Hindustan from the extreme South to the Pamirs. It was an outstanding work, a real breakthrough in the development of practical geodesy. So the name of the peak was given in honor of a worthy person.

It's funny that John Everest himself was of Welsh origin and called himself an Ivrist. But the mountain in English transcription immediately began to be called Everist. For the whole world, who speaks little English, it began to be called Everest... which, with a certain stretch, can be called “always resting.” Again, it is interesting that George himself had the nickname “Neverest” - “never resting”.

Note that Everest himself took part in a meeting on names in 1857 and spoke out against the use of his name. In his opinion, the name does not correspond well to local languages ​​and cannot be learned by the natives.

Results of cartographic work

And the process

Or maybe it’s Gaurizankar?

The Schlaginweit brothers are true knights of science

In 1862, the German geographer and traveler Hermann Schlaginweit, after returning from Tibet, announced in Berlin that this peak had the local name Gaurizankar. It must be said that this message was favorably received by the world scientific community, which did not entirely agree with the fact that the highest peak in the world was so simply given an English name. Gradually the name Gaurizankar became generally accepted and almost everyone agreed with it. Even in England. An ardent supporter of the adoption of a local name in the name was Douglas Freshfield, a major authority in geography and mountaineering.

Freshfield was the first climber in the Caucasus (1868). In 1899 he conducted the first Himalayan expedition "Around Kanchenjunga". Together with Clinton, Dent was the first to express out loud the idea of ​​​​the possibility and necessity of climbing Everest. But he called him Gaurizankar for a long time...

However, the specialists of the Indian Trigonometric Service did not give up. They stood their ground and had an advantage: the game took place “on their field and according to their rules.” At the beginning of the 20th century, special studies were carried out that provided facts that Gaurizankar is a completely different peak. The eternal confrontation between the British and Germans, which intensified at the beginning of the century, led to the fact that the matter also acquired a political character. On the eve of the World War, England fully adopted the name "Everest".

Francis Younghusband, the famous scout and traveler, took the Everest initiative into his own reliable hands in the 20th century...

And the final victory on a global scale occurred in the early 20s, when British expeditions hit the front pages of newspapers and the name became known to every cultured person. Although at the same time it became clear to almost everyone that the peak had a name, and it had been long before the arrival of the British. The Tibetans and Sherpas called the mountain "Chomolungma". Moreover, this name was also known in Europe. On maps made by French preachers at the end of the 18th century, the name Chumulankm was written. London geographers could not have known about this!

“Call me Chomolungma!”

So the struggle continued and continues now. The point of view of opponents of English names in the 20th century was supported by the national liberation forces of India. At a meeting of their Congress (parliament), they ridiculed the British, not wanting any mercy for the outgoing “big brother.” And the Chinese communists, together with their Soviet comrades, gave preference to the Tibetan word Chomolungma (in ours) or Chomolungma (in theirs, which is more correct). This is what our geography textbooks called the top of the world. Tenzing Norgay recognized her under this name as a boy; this is what the Sherpas and Tibetans living in the area call her.

However, the climbing world as a whole continues to use the name Everest... Nevertheless, the game continues. "Call me Chomolungma!" Appellez moi Chomolungma! - this slogan was put forward in 2002 in France. It did not have a big response and joined the general outline of the public struggle to preserve the identity of Tibet. It is in the nature of an anti-Chinese company. But for the French (I wonder if they read it as "Chomolungma") and a bit anti-English.

A little later, another name appeared: Sagarmatha. It was already introduced into use by the Nepalese authorities. They chose a Hindu-sounding word suitable for this occasion. Official Nepalese documents call Sagarmatha the highest peak of the world, that’s what it’s called national park, organized at its foot.

The Sherpa people inhabiting the foot of the Mountain accepted all three names with philosophical calm. After all, human language is a process. And any object is called as people call it. In this case, Everest is 80 percent “Everest” and only the remaining 20 percent is Chomolungma, and almost zero is Sagarmatha. After all, his name is pronounced primarily by climbers. Or in the context of mountaineering.... And it is with the word Everest that the entire dramatic history of struggle and victories is connected, the story of Mallory and Irwin, Tenzing and Hillary, Messner and Bonington, Myslovsky and Balyberdin, many, many others...

The story that made the mountain come alive.

Nepal is blessed with unusual sights. Not only is the country known as the birthplace of Buddha; Most of the highest peaks in the world are located here, 8 of the 14 “eight-thousanders”. These include the tallest mountain on the planet - Everest.

She is also known by the name "Chomolungma": translated from Tibetan - "Divine Mother of Life". The international name “Everest” was given to the mountain in honor of the head of the geodetic survey of British India, Sir George Everest, simply because it was the employees of this institution who first measured the height of Chomolungma in 1852, proving that its Peak XV is the highest in the region and, probably, in the whole world .

True, with the height of Everest, not everything is so obvious. Indian mathematician and topographer Radhanat Sikdar (an employee of that same service), based on trigonometric calculations and being 240 kilometers from Chomolungma, only suggested that this is the highest peak in the world. Practical calculations made 4 years later gave a figure of 29,002 feet (8840 meters), proving the theory.

And then Everest was measured repeatedly, and from time to time it “increased” - up to 8872 meters, depending on the methods. Currently, the officially recognized level is 8848 meters above sea level, of which four meters are covered by the snow cap.

Here, in the world of rocks, snow and eternal ice, frosts down to minus 60 °C prevail, and at the top strong winds blow at speeds of up to 200 km/h. At an altitude of 7925 meters, the so-called “death zone” begins, where only 30% of oxygen is concentrated. Add to this the constant ice falls and avalanches - and it becomes obvious why no one could climb to the top for quite a long time. And even now, despite progress and all kinds of technologies, the ascent takes an average of two months, since it is done in stages: with the installation of a camp for acclimatization.

Another difficulty in conquering Chomolungma was that the mountain lies on the border of Nepal and China (Tibet). From time to time, either Nepal or China, or even both states at the same time, were closed to foreigners. One way or another, the first ascent was made on May 29, 1953 by Sherpa Tenzing Norgay and New Zealander Edmund Hillar, after a numerous series of failures of previous expeditions.

The mountain has several names. The most common is Everest, named after the Englishman John Everest, who led the British Indian Survey from 1830 to 1843. In Tibet, the peak is usually called Chomolungma, which means “divine”. In Nepal, the name Sagarmatha, meaning “Mother of the Gods,” stuck.

In total, about 4,000 people have conquered Everest to date - we are talking about those who reached the top. It is impossible to count the number of tourists with their shortened tours. Many of those who reached the very “roof of the world” set various kinds of records. This includes climbing without oxygen cylinders, staying without oxygen for almost a day, and skiing down from Everest... In 2001, blind American Eric Weihenmayer climbed to the top of Everest, in 2006 - Mark Inglis, a climber with two amputated legs. And the first woman to conquer Chomolungma was the Japanese woman Junko Tabei in 1976.

The British had been planning expeditions to Everest since 1893, but due to various reasons the expedition was postponed year after year. Only in 1921 was the first group equipped. The start was taken from Darjeeling. The purpose of the expedition was to explore climbing routes on the northern slope. In subsequent years, the British made more than once attempts to conquer the main peak of the world, but weather conditions and lack of climbing experience did not allow them to conquer Everest. The result of these attempts was only the death of several people; the mountain still remained inaccessible...

The desire to conquer the “divine”, after a number of similar unsuccessful campaigns, was repulsed by the British for a long time, and only after the Second World War did people again turn their gaze to the top of the rebellious mountain. Again a number of preliminary expeditions were carried out, the purpose of which was to deliver equipment to the slopes of Everest. These were preparations for the breakthrough of the main group. And so on May 29, 1953, Tenzing Norgam and Edmund Hillary ascended to the top of the world...

However, Everest is, in the full sense of the word, a mountain of death. Storming this height, the climber knows that he has a chance not to return. Death can be caused by lack of oxygen, heart failure, frostbite or injury. Fatal accidents, such as a frozen oxygen cylinder valve, also lead to death. Moreover: the path to the top is so difficult that, as one of the participants in the Russian Himalayan expedition, Alexander Abramov, said, “at an altitude of more than 8,000 meters you cannot afford the luxury of morality. Above 8,000 meters you are completely occupied with yourself, and in such extreme conditions you do not have extra strength to help your comrade.” The tragedy that happened on Everest in May 2006 shocked the whole world: 42 climbers passed by the slowly freezing Englishman David Sharp, but no one helped him. One of them were television crews from the Discovery Channel, who tried to interview the dying man and, after photographing him, left him alone...

Over all these years of climbing Everest, more than 200 people died, and only a few bodies were lowered from the top. The rest are buried by meters of snow or exposed to the winds and “meet” other climbers on the way to the top. These are the laws of Everest: the higher the altitude, the less humanity remains in people. It happened more than once that a rising group could help those in trouble, but to provide help means ending the campaign, giving up a dream. Many passed by, and when they walked back, help was no longer needed.

Vladimir Vysotsky has a song “Only mountains can be better than mountains,” and it’s true. The only exception is Chomolungma. What does a climber experience when he has conquered the main peak in his life? Joy or disappointment that the main goal has been achieved and there will be “smaller” mountains in the future?!

Initially, the peak was not considered the highest in the world; according to the results of the first topographic survey (1823-1843), it was included in the classifier as peak “XV” (Dhualagiri was in the lead on this list). And only after the second topographic survey (1845-1850) everything fell into place. In 1921, the first expedition to Chomolungma with the aim of reconnaissance of the ascent route from the north, from Tibet. Based on reconnaissance data, the British, under the leadership of Mallory, stormed the peak in 1922, but the monsoon, snowfall and lack of experience in high-altitude ascents did not give them the opportunity to climb. In 1924, the third expedition to Chomolungma. The group spent the night at an altitude of 8125 m, the next day one of the participants (Norton) reached a height of 8527 m, but was forced to return. A few days later, a second attempt was made to storm the north-eastern ridge (a team of Mallory, Irwin using oxygen cylinders), the climbers did not return, there is still an opinion that they could have been on the top of Chomolungma. Subsequent pre-war expeditions to the area did not bring new ones results. In 1952, a Swiss expedition set out to storm Everest from the south. Twice in 1952, Lambert and Norgay Tenzing climbed above 8,000 meters, but in both cases the weather forced them to turn back. In 1953, an English expedition led by Colonel Hunt went to Everest (Qomolungma), and they were also joined by New Zealand climbers, one of whom was E. Hillary, they were supposed to help the British cross the Khumbu Icefall, Sherpa Norgay Tenzing was included in the assault group. There is a legend that the conquest of Everest was being prepared as a gift to Queen Elizabeth II on the day of her coronation. On May 27, the first pair - the Englishmen Evans and Bourdillon - reached the southern peak, where they left oxygen and a tent for the next assault group. And on May 29, 1953, Sherpa Norgay Tenzing and New Zealander Edmund Hillary reached the summit. On May 8, 1978, R. Messner and P. Habeler accomplished what was considered impossible - the first ascent of Everest without oxygen. Messner described his feelings this way: “In a state of spiritual abstraction, I no longer belonged to myself, to my vision. I am nothing more than a lonely panting lung, floating above the mists and peaks.” On May 16, 1975, the first woman climbed Everest, it was Junko Tabei (Japan). The first ascent of Soviet climbers to the highest peak on Earth took place in May 1982. A Soviet team of 9 people climbed to the top of Everest along a very difficult, previously unclimbed route along the southwest face.