Where to smoke hookah in Sanya. Elena Iskhakova's blog

The owners of almost every modern Chinese bar, cafe or restaurant with a European twist consider it obligatory to include in the menu not only hipster macchiatos, smoothies, mojitos, craft beer and cheesecakes of all kinds, but also long Arabic hookahs with tobacco, which rise intricately above the tables, as a rule. , fruity taste. The newspaper asked how long ago and in what form have the Chinese known hookah, and how is the hookah business controlled? And is this a business?

Hookah (水烟), not only as a way of smoking tobacco, but also as an object of art and a reason for communication, has been known in China since the Ming Dynasty, a period of active development of shipping and trade. By the time of the classic Romance of the Three Kingdoms, in which the hero Zhuge Liang tries a hookah offered to him by a hermit, it had already become widespread in the regions of Gansu and Guangxi.

Thanks to international contacts and profits from sales, tobacco began to be grown on an industrial scale in China, and smoking became commonplace. Hookahs from Lanzhou (兰州水烟) and Shaanxi (陕西水烟) have gained particular popularity among the population. The Arabic hookah (阿拉伯水烟), which appeared in India in the 13th century, began to spread in China, Japan and the Middle East from the 16th century. Hookah bowls were then made from coconut or bamboo shells, and the smoke was black.

Despite the fact that the Chinese consider Yunnan with its smoking pipes to be the region with the richest hookah culture, the most famous among the Chinese is the Lanzhou hookah, in which shag tobacco (黄花烟) is smoked. Lanzhou is located near the Yellow River, surrounded by mountains, the local soils are rich in chalk and potassium, and are perfect for cultivating tobacco.

Lanzhou hookah. Photo: bbs.sssc.cn

In Gansu province, tobacco production is approximately 10 million tons per year; the province's tobacco plantations account for 43% of the area of ​​all tobacco plantations in China. Here tobacco leaf is the main product: it accounts for about 67% of the province’s total annual trade turnover. The sales market covers northeast China, Tibet and Xinjiang, as well as Guangdong and Guangxi.

At the beginning of the 19th century, only about 140 companies in the world were creating smoking devices like the Lanzhou hookah. The production of Lanzhou hookahs is a costly business with low emissions. Produced by hand, they were delivered along bad roads, far away and, again, expensive. As a result, the buyer received an overpriced product. So, initially the buyers of hookahs were local wealthy merchants and officials, because the pleasure was not cheap. During the Qing era, things improved for the craftsmen, production became simpler: smoking vessels and tobacco became available laobaixinam. Now one could often see a man with a hookah in tea shops, and security guards, fishermen and sellers in shops especially loved him.

After the 30s of the 20th century, the hookah business, closely connected with the cultivation of tobacco, and therefore with climatic conditions, which were completely unfavorable, began to suffer significant losses. Due to washed out and unrepaired roads and constantly disrupted deliveries, transportation has practically ceased. The military actions of the People's Army and the Japanese also dictated their terms and influenced supplies. For example, during one of the attacks, about 840 tons of tobacco leaves were completely burned, which resulted in losses of more than 1 million silver coins.

Workshop for the production of tobacco for Lanzhou hookah. Photo: mt.sohu.com

In 1956, 22 hookah and tobacco companies located in the city of Lanzhou merged into a concern, forming a local monopoly. Today, the largest and most successful companies are located in Xi'an, Shanghai, Nantong (南通) and Suzhou, with large branches in Hankou (汉口), Tianjin, Baotou (包头), Luoyang (洛阳), Taiyuan (太原), Chengdu, Chongqing, Beijing and other cities.

After the 80s, the already shaky reputation of hookah completely fell, including due to the fact that the Chinese tried in many ways to imitate visiting Europeans, who preferred cigarettes and cigars to hookah. Among city dwellers, hookah became associated with the countryside, poverty and devastation. According to the owners of establishments where they serve hookah, such a business is still spectacular today, but for the Chinese it has absolutely no status, and is also far from the most profitable.

But there is hope for the revival of hookah smoking culture. Tobacco used in Lanzhou hookah, due to its chemical properties, is recognized by Chinese medicine as a medicinal product: in addition to the negative effect on the body, in small doses and with a low concentration of nicotine it also has some positive effects. In the end, smoking hookah in China is becoming stylish and fashionable again, because Chinese hipsters are greedy for everything retro, enjoy visiting the few hookah bars and little by little popularizing the culture of hookah smoking.

However, until now, buyers of hookah mixtures in China are, for the most part, villagers with low incomes: fishermen, field workers, shepherds. Foreign smoking mixtures and coal are practically not represented on the market, where compositions for Lanzhou hookah dominate. The vast majority of tobacco is sold where it is produced.

According to official statistics, the Lanzhou hookah market numbers more than 1 million people, who annually purchase from 1 to 1.5 million kilograms of tobacco mixtures. The prospect of increasing the market for tobacco products and collecting taxes on the sale of various smoking accessories and tobacco is pushing the government to encourage the development of the tobacco business, including the hookah business.

Arabic hookah in pop culture. Photo: maiyanju.com

Unlike the completely legal Lanzhou hookah, the Arabic hookah in China is legally in a borderline position, not being classified as either a legal or illegal method of smoking. The production of tobacco for smoking Arabic hookah in China, its transportation and sale must be accompanied by the appropriate permits from the competent authorities, just as in the case of other products of the tobacco industry. Since tobacco for Arabic hookah is practically not produced in China, and its import does not reach an industrial scale, the control scheme in this case is extremely vague.

When running such a business, owners are faced with the problem of compliance with documentation for tobacco mixtures produced abroad and brought to China in relation to Chinese legislation, which often has local requirements. When organizing such a business, it becomes extremely important to comply with fire safety rules and recommendations of regulatory authorities. The law may have claims against a hookah bar if prohibited substances and substances hazardous to health are added to tobacco.

So, despite the fact that in fact tobacco and hookah accessories in the vast majority of establishments are supplied by companies from the Middle East, in order to avoid problems with documents, tobacco and tools are officially registered with them

When you find yourself in China, you realize that the earth is not only round, but also so different. If you are accustomed to seeing a lot of fermented milk products, sausages and cheeses on store shelves, then this may be completely unusual for another country on the other side of the world. The same goes for size - our kebabs can simply be called mega-royal after you get to know their little brother - the Chinese kebabs on a toothpick skewer. But this does not detract from its taste, and in terms of variety it certainly has no equal.

Shaokao (烧 烤 ) a very popular dish in China and often very cheap (from 2 to 10 yuan per skewer). If we don’t talk about restaurants, you can try barbecue right on the street, usually this is an evening meal or even a night snack. Previously, one could find such kebab shops in almost every yard, very convenient, but now the state is successfully fighting this type of activity, bringing such illegal entrepreneurs to the legal level. Large beer producers rent territory and at a reasonable price rent out places for barbecue makers or those who can quickly and tasty feed people, and where there is food, they can sell beer well. Symbiosis is convenient for everyone.

About one of these the place will do speech further. Located springboard for eating kebabs in Sanya Bay on the street Fengxiang Lu opposite the hotel Xizang Dasha (风 翔路, 三 亚 西藏大厦 对 面 ) within walking distance from hotels Palm Beach(Palm Beach Resort) And Grand Soluxe Hotel Resort) . For those who love exotic things and walks, you can also get there from more remote points of Sanya Bay. I don’t recommend coming to this address from within the city limits or Dadonghai Bay, as they have their own kebab shops, reports on which will be published later. And the name of this in Chinese is: Limenxiang (黎梦 乡 ).

Attracts the fact that there are not very many people here, so it will not be as noisy as in cafes of the same design, but located on the coastal zone. And resulting from the location - more low pricing policy.

With order There shouldn’t be any difficulties, everything that can pamper you is right in front of your eyes in the refrigerators. Again, it is worth noting that the choice is not small, there is meat, poultry, seafood, vegetables... and even bread, albeit rice, but if you cook it on the grill, it turns out very fragrant. There are several barbecue makers working on the square, you can order from all of them, the food is delicious, and if you don’t find something on the counter of one, you can order from another.

Note! The Chinese love spices. AND love spicy foods. This is especially true for kebabs; they are usually peppered and no amount of pepper is spared. Therefore, in order not to ruin the evening and drink half a ton of beer, when ordering, say loudly Boo La (不辣 ) , and if this is the second cafe from the entrance, then this phrase must be said a couple of times and don’t be shy, we were faced with the fact that when they saw foreigners, the Chinese turned off all perception of reality, and they prepared everything for us very spicy, although tasty. The second time - we were already more persistent - and everything turned out to be a plus.

Check our evening walk for kebabs for two is 78 yuan without drinks. Even though the kebabs in China are really small, you somehow get full of them quickly. We ate 4 beef skewers, two chicken gizzards, 3 cuttlefish (it was because of this that we went to the barbecue, it was very tasty), a skewer with tofu and herbs, 3 skewers with veins (for everyone), 2 skewers. fried bread, one sea cucumber (also very tasty).

Terminology

牛肉 - beef

羊肉 - lamb

鸡翅 - chicken wings

玉米 - corn

鸡胗 - chicken stomach

馒头 - rice buns

生蚝 - oysters

豆腐 - tofu

In addition to the indescribable nature of Hainan Island and excellent recreation, its visitors are pleased with restaurants and bars with a varied cuisine. Many travelers go to this amazing country not only for the gentle sun and blue sea, but also to taste many world-famous Chinese dishes.

Even in Russia, thanks to the Internet, you can decide on the restaurants and bars that you plan to visit on vacation. You can go to their website, find out their cuisine, the menu offered and prices, thereby determining your budget.

In the island's restaurants, holidaymakers can taste dishes that are known throughout the world and are considered purely Chinese, for example: Peking duck. But you can also find dishes on the menu that are unique to Hainan Island. This includes Dongshan goat meat, Wenchang chicken with spices, and Hele crabs with garlic sauce.

When you visit a seafood restaurant on Hainan Island, you can order dishes prepared according to recipes from this area. At the entrance, as a rule, such restaurants have aquariums containing marine life offered on the menu. The restaurant's signature dish is raw lobster meat with a special sauce. Gourmets here can taste shark fins, moray eels, shellfish, shrimp, lamprey and other delicious seafood.

How much does dinner cost on Hainan Island?

It will be useful for vacationers to know that all restaurants in Hainan sell seafood dishes by weight. Regardless of the method of their preparation.

The price for 500 grams of the ordered dish is often indicated on the aquarium. You can calculate how much dinner will cost in advance if you see how the desired sea creature is taken out of the aquarium and weighed.

There are also many establishments with reasonable prices, where in just a few minutes, visitors will be prepared and served kebabs of fish, meat or vegetables on skewers. Many vacationers prefer such hearty food.

It is worth noting that it is impossible to definitively answer the question about the price of food on the island. The price is affected by what part of Hainan the establishment is located.

For example, in Yalongwan, given that the restaurants here are located at hotels, you will have to pay an average of $20 for a meal. At the resorts of Dadonghai and Sanya, it is possible to find a place for dinner or lunch near the hotel. Prices in cafes, bars and restaurants are quite affordable. And ordering a dish may well cost about $10.

It is worth noting that vacationers from Russia do not need to worry that the waiters may not understand them. In Hainan, everything has been done so that holidaymakers do not need anything, and the Russian-speaking staff will understand all orders and requests. There is a restaurant where the waiters and cooks come from Russian-speaking countries.

You can even arrive on the island and not feel that this is Asia if you order the usual dumplings and borscht. Most cafes and restaurants offer Russian-language menus.

How to choose a restaurant, cafe, or other establishment in Hainan

In order to decide which restaurant, bar or cafe to go to for dinner, the easiest way is to understand what kind of cuisine you want to try.

Hainan offers a choice of Russian, Chinese, Japanese, European, American, Mediterranean, Indian, German, Thai and many other cuisines that can be tried in hundreds of establishments.

To be honest, when I go on vacation, I like to dine in different places every day, try something new, and not just eat at the hotel restaurant. In the new bays of Hainan, for example, in Haitang Bay, massive construction is underway, so for now you can only eat here at the hotel. But in the three main bays of the island - Sanya, Dadonghai and Yalongwan - the infrastructure is well developed, and food here is no problem. You can eat in cafes, at street markets, or simply buy food in supermarkets.

Food in cafes and restaurants

The choice of food on Hainan Island is simply huge. Of course, this is primarily the freshest seafood and Chinese cuisine. But if you don’t like them, you can easily find dishes from a wide variety of cuisines here: Russian, Italian, Turkish, European, Armenian and many others.

So, in order.

Budget establishments

• Yalong Bay: You can eat on a budget near the bus station. There is a fruit market and several cafes with Chinese food. Here lunch will cost 2.5-4 euros (20-30 yuan) per person. They open at sunrise and close when it gets dark, around 19.00-20.00. You can take, for example, noodles with meat. The taste is very similar to navy pasta.

Transport: from Sanya Bay via Dadonghai by buses No. 15, 25, 29 (fare 68 cents or 5 yuan), or by taxi, where payment is by meter.

• Sanya Bay: A lot of cafes and restaurants are concentrated in the Pedestrian Street area. For example, the same McDonald's and KFC. The entire top floor of the shopping center on Pedestrian Street is also occupied by a variety of cafes. The food they serve is European: steaks, salads, soups, pizza, desserts. "Pedestrian Street" is open until 23.00 (cafes and restaurants on it, respectively, too), but McDonald's is open around the clock. The average bill per person is from 2 euros (15 yuan), for example, for a hamburger and a drink.

Transport: buses No. 15 and 25 go from Yalongwan via Dadonghai, buses No. 2 and 8 from Dadonghai, price travel ticket- 68 cents (5 yuan).

• Dadonghai Bay: any cafes located on the embankment (Marina, U Lena, USSR and others). They can be classified as both budget and mid-range, so I wrote about them below. The fact is that the portions there are very large, so some even take one serving of the main dish for two, and it turns out quite inexpensive. Opening hours: from 10.00-11.00 to 23.00-24.00. The average bill is from 20 euros (150 yuan) for two.

Transport: from Yalongwan buses No. 15 and 25, from Sanya – No. 2, 4, 8; stop "Dadonghai Bay".

Average establishments

• Yalong Bay: in the center of the bay near the shopping center there is the well-known street La Floret. It houses cafes, restaurants and a Pizza Hat pizzeria; all establishments are open from 10-11 am and close around 10 pm. Their cuisine is Asian, Russian, and European. I would like to note that gourmets will not like it here; the food is average. There's a trick to the menu: the cheapest dishes are at the end! For example, in a pizzeria the most expensive pizza costs 14.5 euros (110 yuan), spaghetti about 3.4 euros (25 yuan), soups and salads - 2 euros (15 yuan).

Transportation: metered taxi or buses No. 15 and 25 (fare 68 cents or 5 yuan).

• Sanya Bay: Brazilian barbecue Armando BBQ, located at Hexi road, 85. In addition to the fact that the meat is delicious here, it is also an economical option for dinner! For a fixed fee (about 12 euros (90 yuan) per person) you get buffet with soups, salads, ice cream, desserts, fruits and a HUGE selection of any meat that is cut from the spit. However, you will have to pay extra for beer, coffee, tea and freshly squeezed juices. The restaurant is open from 11.00 to 22.30, but it is better to come no later than 19.00-20.00, because closer to closing there is little food left.

Transport: bus number 4 (fare 68 cents or 5 yuan); third stop after passing through two bridges.

• Dadonghai Bay: There are a lot of cafes and restaurants located right on the embankment. The average bill there is approximately 7-13 euros (50-100 yuan) per person (salad or appetizers, main course, drinks). They are located right next to each other, street barkers simply will not let you pass by. Near the entrance there is usually a counter with a menu in Russian: you can immediately see the range of dishes and their prices. All establishments close around 23.00-24.00 and open around 10-11 am.

1. “Kievan Rus” will offer guests Russian, Chinese and Georgian cuisine. You can eat borscht, Olivier salad, shish kebab, lula kebab, Chinese meat in sweet and sour sauce and much more.
2. At Lena's try the Peking duck. The cook will cut the duck in front of you, serve it with flatbreads and various sauces, and make broth from the bones and bring it to you a little later. There are also aquarium showcases with seafood, in which live creatures for every taste swim. At the end of dinner (or lunch), you will definitely receive a gift from the establishment: tea, fruit, a bottle of local balm or dessert. It's a small thing, but it's nice!
3. “Vanda”, “Blue Lotus” - European, Chinese and Russian cuisine. The serving size is absolutely huge! Plus display aquariums with seafood, in which livestock swim for every taste.
4. In addition to Chinese, the Dolphin Grill Bar offers Mexican, European and American cuisine. Here you can watch broadcasts of sports matches and play billiards.

You can get to these cafes from Sanya by buses No. 2 and 4 (fare 30 cents/2 yuan), from Yalongwan by buses No. 15 and 25 (fare 68 cents/5 yuan) or by taxi (pay by meter). Stop "Dadonghai Bay" or Summer Mall.

Expensive establishments

• Yalong Bay: Food in this bay is different in that there are very few cafes and restaurants on the streets; they are mostly located on hotel premises. Each hotel can offer its guests at least five restaurants located in hotel complex. Their prices are, of course, very high. Dinner for two costs at least 55 euros (400 yuan). Hotel restaurants are usually open until 10 p.m.
• Sanya Bay: Casa Mia restaurant, you can recognize it by its sign in the colors of the Italian flag. It is located at 88 Sanyawan road. This street runs along the sea, so the terrace offers a wonderful view of the bay. The menu is very extensive: a large selection of pizza, pasta, soups, salads, wines, cocktails and alcoholic drinks. Very good service. The average bill, of course, is a little expensive - 100-130 euros (800-900 yuan) for two (salad, main course, pizza, drinks). The restaurant is open from 14.00 to 02.00.

• Bay: Italian restaurant Marko Polo. Here you will have to pay about 80 euros (600 yuan) for dinner for two (salad, main dish, pizza, drinks). Here, of course, pizza and pasta come first, as well as European cuisine. In short, if you miss Caesar salad and tomato soup, then this is your place. The cook, by the way, is Italian, speaks his native Italian and a little English. Address: 8 Haiyun Road, (you can easily notice the large sign), next to the Leto shopping center, opposite Pizza Hut. Opening hours: from 8.00 to 23.00.

Street food and supermarkets

Some guides will tell you that it’s better not to eat on the streets, you can get poisoned, and it’s unknown what they sell there, but we still took the risk, and neither no matter what terrible things happened, we were very pleased. Just see what you like and try it, because the menu is in Russian, of course. They usually sell rice porridge with coconut milk, skewers made from fish, chicken, beef, as well as rice cakes and sweets.

Bay: If you are a lover of Chinese cuisine, that is, you don’t mind eating spicy food and are not afraid to try something new, then you can go to “Food Square”. This is a place between two shopping centers "Winter" and "Leto". Employees of hotels, medical centers, sellers—in a word, local residents—dine here.

Hours in 6-7, imported food carts gradually begin to appear on the “Square”, then by lunchtime the “Square” calms down a little, and in the evening from 19.00 until closing (until 24.00) There is just an incredible influx of people here.

During the day there are not so many “eats”, everyone is focused on locals, but in the evening, on the contrary, on tourists. With the onset of dusk, about 30 cafes (which are closed during the day), many tables, mobile trays, etc. appear on the square. They turn on signs, music, some kind of ensemble performs, light up the lights, and offer to sing karaoke.

Everything here is generally very cheap: 15-20 yuan per serving (a plate of rice and a “second course” or soup, for example). By the way, there is a large selection of draft beer (costs about 10 yuan per mug), various kebabs, seafood, local dumplings, flatbreads and other delicacies.

Many cafes have a menu, and Russian-speaking waiters will help you make a choice and tell you about the dish you like.

Sanya Bay: street food markets are usually crowded local residents and curious tourists. There is music playing here, Chinese children are running around trying in every possible way to sell you something, locals are talking loudly to each other, playing the saxophone, guitar, singing - in a word, having fun as best they can.

The most popular such market in Sanya is Market No. 1 on Xinjiang Street. It opens very early, at 6 am, and is open until 04.00, sometimes longer.

Here you will see a simply huge selection of any fresh seafood: from fish and shrimp to urchins and sea cucumbers. The prices are very low. For example, big fish The whole thing costs from 50 yuan. Here you can also buy pork, lamb and chicken if you want. Once you have chosen what you like, simply take it to the nearest cafe and ask them to cook it. As a rule, there are barkers walking around this market, who, as soon as they see the packages in your hands, will come up and offer you either a business card of the establishment, or will take you straight to the cafe, where before your eyes the purchase will turn into a dish. The price depends on the complexity of its preparation, but sometimes the final bill may include b the cost of seating, that is, they will add a few yuan for the fact that you ate while sitting and not standing. Usually the cost of preparation is 10-30 yuan.

By the way, the smell at the market is very much for everyone! There is a strong smell of fish, raw meat, water on the floor. I couldn’t stand it even for five minutes, but my husband calmly walked around and looked for all sorts of delicacies. That’s why we did this: I said what I wanted to buy and stayed waiting near the market. And my husband went to the “room with a terrible smell” and chose seafood for us for dinner.

Another interesting point! If you buy live fish, then be prepared for the fact that the cook (or his assistant) will kill this fish right on the asphalt with a stick or club. When I saw this for the first time, the desire to eat completely disappeared.

Transport: bus number 4, first stop after you cross two bridges. Then go to the other side of the street and see the market.

There is another similar night market on Shangping Road. Here you can taste seafood barbecue, drink beer, eat Chinese coconut rice porridge, enjoy hot soup and much more for only 30-40 yuan.

It opens as soon as it starts to get dark (about 17-18.00), and ends work at about 2-3 a.m..

They sell mostly ready-made food here, and fish or meat can be heated on coals in front of you. There is always a lot of beer, local drinks and souvenirs here.

Transport: bus number 4, third stop after the bridge. You need to cross the “Drunken Bridge”, and there the market will be visible.

It happens that you want ordinary, familiar food: yogurt, milk, cheese, sausage and bread... (Keep in mind that there is practically no black bread in Hainan! Only buns and white.) Go to supermarkets and mini-markets, of which there are many on the island .

• In Yalong Bay:
  • There is a supermarket on La Floret street. Open from 9.30 to 22.00.
  • There is another large Guozhong supermarket next to the bus stop (from 9.00 to 22.00). Transport: from Yalongwan buses No. 15 and 25, from Sanya - No. 2 and 8, Summer Mall stop.
• In Dadonghai: Grocery stores are concentrated near the Leto shopping center. There is a large supermarket with the food we are used to (milk, sausage) in the Leto shopping center itself, open from 9.30 to 22.00.

• Near the "Drunken Bridge" there is shopping mall"Mingzhu" (open from 9.30 to 22.30), there is also a grocery store on the ground floor. Transport: bus No. 2 and 4, third stop after two bridges.