Hellas Islands: the elite island of Kea. The island of Kea in Greece The Lion of Kea
Friday. Suddenly there was a strong desire to go somewhere. Near. To the island. I laid out the map. The islands of the Argosaronic Gulf closest to Attica and Athens - Salamis, Aegina, Hydra, Poros, Angistri, Spetses - disappeared immediately. There are so many islands in Greece that visiting the same ones unnecessarily is a crime. The island of Evvia also disappeared - it was there. Looked at extreme point Attiki - Cape Sounio - and saw. I understand - I want to go there.
Ferries leave from port of Lavrio. How to get there? Thanks to this site - I found the bus schedule from Egipto Square. So, the ferry leaves at 9 am, which means I have to leave at least at 6.45. Everything worked out as planned. The bus traveled for a long time through the villages of eastern Attica, 20 minutes before the ferry departure, I arrived and bought a ticket to Kea(9 euros) and here I am on the ferry.
The weather - sometimes it rains, sometimes the sun comes out. But I don't regret it at all. If a woman wants, the weather will not stop her.
The swim is only 1 hour. Standing on the deck, enjoying the sea air and views uninhabited islands. A long one appeared on the left. The place where communists and national democrats were exiled from 1945 to 1949, and the junta of “black colonels” - 1967-1974.
The buildings are abandoned, the island too, even the lighthouse is not working.
While looking out for dolphins, I saw a sailboat.
Time has passed unnoticed, so Kea
The most protected bay in the Mediterranean from the winds, and on the shore: taverns, hotels, travel agencies, rental cars - a well-known range of resort services.
But my goal is the capital of the island of Lulis and Keas Marbled Lion. And all this is high in the mountains.
October, so Shuttle Buses don't go. I took a taxi and in 10 minutes I was in the capital.
I pass through the city gates, once closed by heavy bronze doors, but people and time did not allow us to see them either. Along narrow, clean streets I slowly climb up the mountain.
The donkey stands sad - there are no tourists, no one to pamper him with sugar or cookies, he has to chew hay
I rise higher and higher. At the turn I noticed a tavern - on way back will need to have a snack.
Along the ancient road, which stretches around the circumference of the entire island (37 km), I go to the goal of my visit to the island - To the Keasian lion. This is what he looks like from afar
In the 5th century BC. it was carved into the rock by an unknown sculptor. In 1962, the Keasans, with the help of Athens, installed the lion on a pedestal. Kea was always for Athens and when the Persians came in 490 and 480 B.C. and when Athens fought with Sparta 431-404 BC.
Finally I'm at my goal. Only a small group of Germans came towards me. And she was completely alone, far in the mountains, alone with the ancient, tired of human eyes, but still beautiful Leo.
Lion head
I saw unusual flowers at the monument, I think the Mill will help identify them.
The road back seemed shorter. This road had been used since ancient times. From the port to the capital, goods were transported to the market on donkeys, and from there the villagers transported them to the villages.
I stopped at a spring, of which there are countless of them on the island along the ancient road.
I couldn't resist taking a photo of the general view.
The donkey met again, now without its bag - apparently, the owner let him go for a walk.
Of course, I couldn’t pass by the archaeological museum, but they weren’t allowed to take photographs there, citing the fact that not all exhibits belong to the state; some are from a private collection.
Kea is the closest of the islands of the archipelago to the mainland, and there are especially many guests here in August - these are mainly Athenians, arriving with whole families and throughout the year on weekends. However, only a few of the coastal resorts are exposed to metropolitan influences, and the central part of the island is calm, although further inland apartments and villas become increasingly expensive and the taverns are not nearly as good as you might expect (and essentially no nightlife! ) - but this is because visitors prefer to be content with self-service.
On weekdays, with the exception of August, Kea should be most liked by those who like to wander along rural roads: the shores are rocky and almost impassable, and in the center of the island there are oak and almond groves. In ancient times, the island was named Keos and four cities flourished on it, thanks to its well-located and therefore strategically important harbor. Kea retained its importance until the 19th century, when Syros became the main Greek port.
Tourists are attracted by the sea and especially the abundance maritime transport: Regular (high season) ferry and fast boat services link Kea with the mainland port of Lavrion (1.5 hours by bus to Athens). In addition, there are (less frequent) catamarans and ferries to and from. The port in Lavrion is expanding, so transport should be getting better, but you will have to find out the details at the port itself, since agents in Athens usually do not sell tickets to Kea.
The small northern port of Corissia, which welcomes ferries and hydrofoils, has fallen victim to uneven expansion. If you don't like what you see when you get off the pier, try taking a bus to Pisses (16 kilometers), Odzias (6 kilometers) or Iulida (6 kilometers). Buses usually meet arriving flights, and the island has a regular timetable in July and August, but at other times of the year public transport sometimes elusive. The island has taxis and several motorbike rentals at the port, both of which are more expensive than neighboring islands.
A modest tourist information desk opens sporadically, but the Mouzaki agency next door is only an agent for the Marmary Express to Lavrion and can't help you with anything else. Meltemi is the general agency for all ferries, including the Myrina Express and Makedon ferries to Lavrion of Goutos Lines. The quality of accommodation is average, all year round there is a cozy Karthea near the port, which has only single rooms, you can stay in the hospitable Nikitas guesthouse with simple comfortable studios inland from the shore along the river bed and to the right along the river.
Near the western end of the beach on the road to Vourkari is the comfortable Hotel Brilliante Zoi (or Lameri Zoi), with quiet rear-facing rooms set back from the road. A little further on is the cool, modern Keos Katoikies, which is positioned to offer views of the bay. For food, you can visit several unremarkable taverns that serve ordinary Greek food at inflated prices. It is pleasant to swim on the small Yaliskari beach, bordered by eucalyptus trees, between Korissia and Vourkari. Yialiskari offers rooms near the beach; the price-quality ratio is much better.
Beach bar-cafe Tastra serves as a sort of nightlife hub on the island, luring night owls away from the much more crowded Korissia and Iulida. Vourkari, a couple of kilometers to the north-east, is more compact and certainly more attractive than Korissia, and is especially favored by yachtsmen. Fresh seafood is served in several taverns, including the country-famous Giannis Maroulis and Konstantina Marouli, but there is also a very good ouzeri - Strofi tou Mimi - where the road turns into the interior of the island, towards Odzias. Apart from a few unremarkable bars, the local nightlife, as on the island in general, comes down to socializing in taverns after all the plates have long been empty.
After another 4 kilometers, passing the excavations of the ruins of the Minoan palace of Ayia Irini, located on the peninsula that closes the main harbor from the north, you will find yourself in Odzias, with a small beach that is slightly better than in Korissia, although less protected from the prevailing winds here. In Odzias there are only a couple of taverns and a few apartments for rent. The only active monastery on the island is Panagia Kastriani from the 18th century, an hour’s walk from Odzias along a dirt road. From here, in a two-hour pleasant walk, you reach the capital of the island, the town of Iulida.
Ancient Greek city of Iulida on the island of Kea
Iulida (ancient Julis), or Chora, is proud that the poets Simonides and Bacchylides, who became famous in the 5th century BC, were born here. Numerous tiled roofs, neoclassical buildings and winding flagstone paths are typical of Cycladic villages, but Ioulida, very beautifully located in an amphitheater between the hills, is the most architecturally interesting village on the island and the most convenient base from which to explore it. Accordingly, in recent years it has suffered an “invasion” of bars and bistros, very lively in August and on weekends, but the rest of the time it is quiet, especially since there is no traffic on the narrow streets.
A paved road leads from Carissia to Ioulis, but you can also walk along a stone path that connected both villages in the ancient times of the island’s prosperity. The Archaeological Museum (Tuesday-Sunday 8:30-15:00; free) exhibits a surprisingly diverse range of finds from the four city-states of ancient Kea, although the best exhibits have long been in . Those lower outskirts of the city stretch over the hill to the Kastro - a dilapidated Venetian fortress, partly built from the stones of the ancient Temple of Apollo.
After a 15-minute walk northeast along the path in the direction of the Panagia Kastriani monastery, you will find yourself at the Lion of Kei - a sculpture carved into the rock: its length is 6 meters and its height is 3 meters. There are steps leading up to the sculpture, but the lion makes a stronger impression at some distance away. In addition to the post office and bank branch, you can stay here, for example, at the attractive Serie Hotel. The food and drink options are generally better than in Corissia, however many are closed during the low season. Piatsa, at the entrance to the lower town, behind the car park, offers a variety of delicious dishes, and above, on the platia, Rolando’s offers a large selection of fish dishes, which are especially good with the ubiquitous ouzo.
Meat lovers should feast next door at To Kalofagadhon. The panorama fully lives up to its name: it’s nice not only to drink coffee and cake here, but also to admire the sunset. The city center once had a vibrant nightlife scene, but now everything closes early, although the people of Ioulida have elected Andonakis Zoulos, one of the most in-demand artists of Greek traditional music, as mayor, so you have a reason to stop by the town hall and wonder when and where the next one will be. once the mayor speaks. Full-scale evenings of bouzouki music are not uncommon in bars, cafes and taverns, both in the city itself and in the port (in Korissia).
Southern part of the island of Kea
About 8 kilometers southwest of Ioulis (the route follows ruts and paths or a mostly paved road) stands a very impressive, although crumbling, Hellenistic watchtower Agia Marina on the site of a small monastery from the 19th century. Beyond this, the highway skirts a very beautiful cultivated valley near the village of Pisses and then leads to a vast and poorly developed beach. There are two taverns and a pleasant Kea campsite, with good turf, which also rents out studios, away from the sea. The best tavern is To Akroyiali: a good selection of dishes and decent house wines, as well as rooms for rent upstairs.
After Pisses the asphalt ends, but the continuation of the road to the south leads after 5 kilometers to the sheltered bay of Koundouros, favored by yachtsmen. Here, behind the largest of several coves with sandy shores similar to the beach at Pisses, there is a tavern. The luxurious Kea Beach Hotel occupies its own headland and entices guests with tennis courts, a swimming pool and a village of fake windmills that are actually holiday homes.
On the southern edge of the bay, Saint George Bungalows offers decent, well-maintained accommodation at very reasonable prices, and its tavern is definitely worth a visit. Another 2 kilometers south in Kambi, there is also a good tavern at the cute little beach - To Kambi. Apart from the very scanty remains of the ancient city of Piess near Pisses, the only visible evidence of the antiquity of Kea and its importance in ancient times is the remains of the temple of Apollo in ancient city Karteya, on the south-eastern edge of the island, on the shore above Poles Bay.
There you will also find a magnificent deserted double beach, the easiest way to get to which is by boat, otherwise you will have to spend three hours on a roundabout path from the village of Stavroudaki, which is slightly off the dirt road connecting Koundouros, Havuna and Kato Merya. Traveling by motorcycle or scooter along the road between Pisses and Kato Merya, it is worth going down from the top of the island to Iulida: the Kato-Meria-Iulida section is paved, and along the way you will have time to admire beautiful views with thousands of majestic oak trees - this is the most characteristic feature of Keia.
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Nisos Kea. General description
A rocky, mountainous island with ridges stretching along the southeastern part. Highest point islands - the peak of Oros Ayios Ilias, 560 meters high, is located seven miles northeast of the southern tip of the island. A clearly visible landmark can be two radio masts installed in close proximity to the top.
Kea is the closest of the Cyclades islands to Attica with a population of about 2,000 inhabitants. The shores are mostly bare and rocky; between them are valleys covered with vineyards, bushes, and wild flowers. The island's steep slopes are distinguished by large stone fences that serve to enclose areas for grazing. The island has fresh groundwater, springs flow from the mountains, and there are eucalyptus and oak groves. In small bays, sheltered from the winds by rocks, there are small sandy beaches, and between them you can find underwater caves.
In recent years large number land plots the island was bought by the Athenians for the construction of villas and apartments. The most bizarre of them can be seen in the north of the island in the Otzia area, in the west in the Melisaki area and in the southwest in the town of Kunduros. Therefore, on weekends a huge number of yachts and boats flock from Athens to main port Vourkari – Korissa islands.
Navigation and hydrographic features
The island of Kea is separated from the island of Nisos Makronisos lying to the north-west by the Steno Keas Strait, and from the island of Kithnos located to the south by the Steno Kithnos Strait, in which there is a constant south-westerly current at a speed of 2-3 knots. However, with strong northeast winds, the current speed can reach 7 knots. The Steno Keas Strait experiences heavy shipping traffic, so care and attention must be exercised when passing through the strait.
Almost all approaches to Kea, with the exception of the approach to Koundouros Bay (Kavia), are safe. When approaching Koundouros Bay, at a distance of about 2.5 cables to the west of the northern cape there is the Koundouros Reef (), which is not always visible. In addition, to the north of the cape there are a large number of underwater rocks. It is recommended to approach Koundouros Bay from the south.
Ioulis Kea
The main noticeable landmarks of the island can be main city Ioulis Kea (), rising 300 meters above sea level, as well as lighthouses: Ormos Ayiou Nikolaou (), Fl(2)10s32m15M - on the northern side of the bay of the same name on the approaches to Vourkari - Korissa
Lighthouse Ormos Ayiou Nikolaou
Vourkari is the main anchorage for yachts. It is located in the northeastern part of the Gulf of Ormos Ayiou Nikolaou. It is very well protected from the north-east meltemi wind, but with strong westerly winds there is intense swell. In this case, it is recommended to change your parking spot and move to Korissia at the opposite end of the bay.
In Vourkari you can anchor directly in the bay, or moor stern to the quay. However, the depths near the embankment decrease sharply so that it may be necessary to use a dinghy to reach the shore. The bay itself is deep, the soil holds the anchor well, but to anchor comfortably you need to give at least 40 meters of anchor chain. In summer the anchorage is completely full, especially on weekends, so you need to arrive early to find a spot. Also, when anchored, you should keep in mind that many yachts are moored on buoys and therefore have a small turning radius in the wind. Local residents, especially restaurant and cafe owners, are always friendly and ready to help with mooring.
Vourkari embankment
There are two small shops near the embankment. You can replenish your water and electricity supplies by connecting to the water pumps on the embankment. Payment is made with special cards that can be purchased at local stores. The approximate cost of the card is 2.5 euros. The parking itself is free.
Korissia
Korissia is a commercial port in St. Nicholas Bay where ferries dock. However, there is the possibility of mooring for several yachts. It is better to anchor on the E side of the bay, away from the constantly maneuvering ferries. It is a lively area with several restaurants and shops. There is an excellent bakery, art gallery, and food market. On the embankment you can replenish water and electricity supplies.
Korissia ferry pier
You can contact the dispatcher, whose name is Nikos, by phone: +30 6977-694014. Fuel (diesel and gas) can be ordered by phone: +30 22880-21400 and +30 6977-300130. You can also order an EKO tanker. Phone numbers for ordering: +30 22880-21250 Mob: +30 6987-448956.
Anchorages
Koundouros
Koundouros Bay is the second most popular anchorage on the island after Vourkari. It is well protected from northeastern winds, but if it blows from the south, parking here is very uncomfortable. In such cases, it is recommended to seek refuge in Pises Bay or Vourkari.
The best place to anchor is the northeastern part of the bay. If possible, it is recommended to place mooring lines ashore, on a rock under a small church. As in Vourkari, on weekends in the summer it is crowded and noisy from the numerous motor yachts, arrived from Athens for the weekend. Among the local attractions, there are only a couple of restaurants on the shore.
Pisses
Pisses is a small cove 2 miles north of Koundouros. It is not very well protected from meltemi, but provides some shelter from the southwest wind. The bottom is sandy, the anchor holds well. There is a small restaurant on the shore.
Poles
Poles is a beautiful bay on the southeast side of the island. It provides fairly good shelter from meltemi, but is completely exposed to south-easterly winds. In the center of the bay there is a small island connected to the shore by a shallow reef. This best place for parking on the east of the island. The bottom is sandy, the anchor holds well. Ruins are located on the shore of the bay ancient city Karthea (Καρθαία). It is highly recommended to visit, because... it's not yet touched by tourists a place that can only be reached on foot along a path or by landing on the shore from the sea.
Ruins of Karthea
Khalindhoniki
This is a small and very pleasant bay south of Cape Spathi on the north-eastern side of the island. Khalindhoniki provides good shelter from meltemi but is exposed to south-easterly winds. Depth for anchoring - about 5 m, sandy soil holds the anchor well.
The bay can get crowded on weekends during the summer months. On the shore, you can visit the monastery on the top of the hill (about 20 minutes on foot), from where you can enjoy a magnificent view.
Orgias
This is a small bay on the N side of the island. Only for calm weather.
Cove S of Poles
Small bay south of Poles. Only for calm weather.
Attractions
The island of Kea is called the gateway to the Cyclades archipelago. It got its name in honor of the hero Keos, the son of Apollo and the nymph Rhodoessa. According to legend, Keos arrived on the island at the end of the 12th century BC, he was the leader of the Locrians who invaded here. Over its long history, the island changed its name several times. He was known as Hidroussa, Efhantis, Sirius.
The island of Kea is associated with the name of another ancient Greek hero - Aristeas. This son of Apollo and the nymph Cyrene was called by the inhabitants to the island to fight the scorching heat and drought, devoting himself to Zeus of Ikmai, the giver of dampness. Aristaeus became king of Keos. Since then, the drought has subsided thanks to the northeast wind - meltemi. Aristeas taught local residents to grow grapes, raise livestock, and extract honey.
Aristeus
In the 7th-6th centuries BC, four ancient cities were founded on the island: Ioulis, Korissia, Karthaia, Poieessa.
Already in 1204, during the reign Byzantine Empire the island was named Zia. This name was transformed into Tzia and the island is still known under this name.
The port of Korissia was built on the ruins of an ancient city, whose former glory is reminiscent of the remains of the Acropolis and the ruins of the Temple of Apollo on the hill of St. Sava.
The capital of the island is the city of Ioulis Kea, where there is an archaeological museum that has collected ancient artifacts found during excavations on the island. Iulida is located six kilometers from the port. This is a medieval-style fortified city. The fortress walls and castle have survived to this day.
The main attraction of the island is the famous statue of the Lion of Keos (VI century BC) carved into the rock, 1.5 km northeast of Iulida (). This work was completed around 600 BC. and is associated with the myth of the lion who expelled the nymphs from the island.
Keos lion
In ancient times, the island was inhabited by nymphs who lived in the forests near the springs. Thanks to the nymphs, the island had a humid climate; the abundance of moisture promoted plant growth. By the way, this is why one of the ancient names of the island was Hidroussa. But the nymphs were not harmless creatures. It so happened that they killed the women of the island. And this only ended when a lion appeared and drove out the nymphs, for which the gods punished the island, forcing the star Sirius to irradiate it with its deadly rays so that the water disappeared and a great drought occurred. Desperate local residents they asked for help from Apollo, who sent his son Aristeas... Well, what happened next, we already wrote a little earlier.
The island is home to the largest mill complex of the Cyclades: on the top of Mount Milo there are 26 windmills, most of which are half destroyed and used as warehouses.
And here, as on most other Greek islands, you can find monasteries and churches, white and blue houses of villages, many taverns and restaurants, as well as picturesque landscapes, blue sea and clean beaches.
It is impossible not to mention the Ormos Ayiou Nikolaou lighthouse, which greets ships entering the hospitable harbor of Vourkari - Korissa. This lighthouse was built in 1831 on the site of the ruins of the ancient Temple of Poseidon by the French lighthouse company and is one of the oldest lighthouses in Greece and the oldest lighthouse in the Cyclades. It got its name from the chapel of Agios Nikolaos, located nearby.
Lighthouse Agios Nikolaos Kea
Not everyone knows that just a little over two miles from the island, in the Steno Keas Strait (), at a depth of 122 meters, lies the famous Britannic, the twin brother of the Titanic. On November 21, 1916, the 270-meter giant was blown up by German mines and sank a few hours later.
Britannic
So, the gates of the Cyclades are open. Having rested and refreshed, you can move on.
Materials and sources used:
Encyclopedia cruiserwiki.org, Pilot NP48 “Mediterranean Pilot. Vol.4”, “Tourist Guide Book Kea/Tzea”, Book “PUB. 113 LIST OF LIGHTS THE WEST COASTS OF EUROPE AND AFRICA, THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA, BLACK SEA AND AZOVSKOYE MORE (SEA OF AZOV)"
The island of Kea is quite large in size, the island closest to Attica, the “gate” of the Cyclades archipelago. It is only 16 nautical miles from the port of Lavrio (the tip of Attica), the ferry takes about an hour. Kea Island is mountainous in the center, up to 500 m above sea level. The shores are mostly bare and rocky, with valleys between them covered with vineyards, bushes, and wild flowers. The island has fresh groundwater, springs flow from the mountains, and there are eucalyptus and oak groves. In small bays, sheltered from the winds by rocks, there are small sandy beaches, with underwater caves between them. The climate is very mild, with frequent winds in summer, especially in August, when the refreshing Meltemi begins to blow from the north. Winter is mild and humid. The Cyclades and snow are incompatible concepts. However, phenomena do happen! In February 2008, snow briefly covered Ke Island 
oh, the snow lay in a solid cover in the mountains and even the beaches, palm trees and houses on the coast were white for several hours!
The island of Kea has been inhabited since approximately the second millennium BC. The port city of Korissia is built on the ruins of the ancient city of Korisos. The remains of the Acropolis and the Temple of Apollo survived on the hill of St. Sava. The famous Kouros statue was found here. Evidence of the island's prosperity from the Copper Age to the Mycenaean period has been discovered on the Hagia Irene Peninsula. Exhibits from the excavations can be seen in the Archaeological Museum of Iulida, the capital of the island. Until recently, Kea was a sparsely populated place. Several towns along the coast and in the center of the island, where life flowed at its own pace. In recent years, the island has begun to be actively built up with luxury villas and 
hotels. Its proximity to the capital determines its popularity among Europeans and Athenians; the capital's elite build their residences here. The level of service and food corresponds to the clientele. But you can still find many secluded, virgin places here. And one more thing - the sea and beaches here are exceptionally clean. There is little vegetation on the island of Kea, but still more than on the central islands of the Cyclades; vineyards, pine trees, palm trees, oaks and other deciduous trees grow here in the mountains. There are caves, mountain monasteries, Venetian fortresses, ruins of the ancient period, lined with stone mountain trail which is still used today. The capital of the island is located in 
deep into the island, 6 km from the port. Iulida is a former fortified city in medieval style. The double walls of the fortress and the castle have been preserved. Near the port on the coast is the small cosmopolitan town of Vourkari and holiday village Yaliskari. The sunsets here are especially good - the sun plunges into the Kotsoni Labros Strait between the Church of St. George and the lighthouse of St. Nicholas. The lighthouse is the first in the Cyclades and the second in Greece, built in 1831. Vourkari has a wonderful small museum of modern painting, where paintings by famous Greek artists are exhibited. And a huge number of sailing and motor yachts are everywhere. Once on the island there was a factory for enamelware, EMAIE, which was very important for the Greek economy. It has been closed for a long time, but the government decided to make a museum of industry there. Kea is a paradise for lovers of fishing and scuba diving. It must be said that the island is not suitable for those who are used to relaxing in crowded all-inclusive hotels. There is a slightly different style and rhythm here. But in the restaurants and bars of Kei you are provided with high-quality service and exquisite food and drinks, not to mention 
I'm talking about a stylish interior. And of course the famous Black wine of the island. Moving further east, we will meet the city of Otzya with its famous beach - 700 meters long, almost round in shape, all made of golden sand. The main part of the island's agriculture is concentrated in the northeast of the island. It is better to visit the village of St. Simeon on September 1, when a festive fair takes place here. The Pisses Plain will impress you with its rich gardens. Imagine the surprise of an uninitiated traveler who finds himself in the forest of Perameria; it will be difficult for him to convince himself that these are the Cyclades! Going further south, several archaeological sites, remains of temples and a city are scattered almost on the shore near the village of Karfei. Here in ancient times 
there was a rich policy. It will take years to conduct full-fledged large-scale research. But now there is no money for this, especially since there are dozens or even hundreds of such monuments throughout Greece. It is a pity that excavations are not being carried out around the ancient theater in Hellinika, as there is so much interesting stuff lying there under a cultural layer of 5-6 meters.
Kei's color is not always white and blue. It is often golden and has wide sandy beaches. In some places it is beige-orange, the color of the tiled roofs, and rainfall here is more frequent than the average in the Cyclades. It can also be green, as well as all imaginable and inconceivable shades of spring meadow flowers. And it is also the color of the dark local stone. But undoubtedly, color dominates here sea wave, which is seen from their balconies and terraces by residents of small and large houses, as well as lovers of island holidays from all over the world.
