Beach holiday in San Sebastian. San Sebastian: everything you need to know about the most beautiful city in Spain Holidays San Sebastian

San Sebastian in Spain is considered an elite resort city. France has Nice, Spain has San Sebastian. Although, perhaps, it would be more correct to compare it neither with Nice, but with Biarritz: both of them are located on the shores of the Bay of Biscay, at a distance of 50 km from each other.

Both the Spanish kings and the dictator Franco loved to relax in San Sebastian. And Queen Isabella II “opened” it to the sophisticated public in the mid-19th century. At that time there was a military fort here, and with it there was a fishing village.

Indeed, the location was ideal for a resort: a quiet, secluded, semicircular bay with a wide strip of sandy beaches on both sides ending in hills; in the middle of the bay, the rocky island of Santa Clara rose from the water, covering it from the open water.

Soon, Queen Maria Cristina built her residence here, and the city began to fill with aristocratic audiences. A luxurious resort town was built on the site of a military fishing settlement. In the toponymy of the city, you will often come across the name “Maria Cristina” - in memory of the queen, under whom, in fact, the city arose in its current role.

San Sebastian quickly became fashionable. And it doesn’t come out of it to this day.

San Sebastian at the beginning of the last century

San Sebastian is located on the Atlantic Ocean, in Basque Country, 14 km from the Spanish-French border, and has a double Basque-Spanish name: Donostia-San Sebastian.

There are not too many Russian tourists here - unlike the Mediterranean coast of Spain, which has long been thoroughly developed by our compatriots. I haven’t seen any package tours to San Sebastian. Yes, in general, he is hardly associated with traditional beach resort, in which hotels with balconies overlooking the sea stretch along the coast, where the beaches are lined with sun loungers, and cafes mixed with boutiques line the embankment.

San Sebastian is a solid city, fairly homogeneous in style, mostly 5-6 floors high, which acquired its current appearance during the Art Nouveau era and subsequently adapted to the given style. Most of the buildings in the center and Old Town are built from local light yellow stone.

Typical building color

Several times I have come across the opinion that San Sebastian is supposedly similar to Paris. It looks like Paris as much as any European city, formed in the 19th century, is similar to another European city of the same time (as you know, Paris was radically rebuilt in the 19th century by Baron Haussmann). In my opinion, San Sebastian is more like Madrid or. The comparison with Paris doesn't really apply here.

Quite in the spirit of Madrid, isn't it?

How to get to San Sebastian

1.San Sebastian has its own airport near the village Monribia(Hondarribia), but I didn’t come across any direct flights from Moscow. Usually a transfer in Madrid is added. The cost of such flights is around 25 thousand rubles. Flights are operated by Iberia Airlines.

2. A flight to Biarritz(50 km from San Sebastian).

3. A good option is to fly to Bilbao. Air tickets - about 17-18 thousand rubles. In Bilbao - large international airport. Distance to San Sebastian – 100 km.

You can travel from Bilbao to San Sebastian by local train. See the schedule on the Euskotren website (when choosing your arrival point, look for Donostia - San-Sebastian). Electric trains depart from Bilbao every hour and take 2 hours 40 minutes to reach Donostia. The fare is 6.30 euros.

In this case, the bus will be preferable (schedule - on alsa.es). It goes from 1 to 1.15 and costs 6.50 euros.

Pesa buses run directly from Bilbao Airport to Donostia. The schedule is on the Pesa website. The bus departs at 1.15, the ticket price is 12 euros.

4. Many people prefer to fly to Barcelona(tickets around 15 thousand). From Barcelona to San Sebastian – 400 km. They can be overcome either by rented car, or by train, or by bus.

Train schedules and fares can be found at renfe.com.

The train from Barcelona to San Sebastian takes from 5 and a half hours to 7 and a half (depending on the type). Fare ranges from 35 to 48 euros. Several trains per day.

Alsa buses (alsa.es) reach San Sebastian in 8 hours. The fare costs 38 euros.

5. Rates for trains and buses from Madrid to San Sebastian. And about the same time.

To choose the best option for getting to San Sebastian from Bilbao, Madrid or Barcelona, ​​use the website. You can buy tickets online on the same website.

Using the price calendar, you can see which months and days have the highest prices. favorable prices on air tickets, and compare prices for flights to Madrid, Barcelona and Bilbao.

Zurriola and Kursaal Beach

First, let's look at San Sebastian from its most advantageous side - let's walk along coastline. Let's go from east to west.

The city has three sandy beach and two hills with observation decks.

The first beach, Zurriola, is occupied by surfers. From morning to evening, on the nearby streets you can meet people with boards under their arms, hurrying to the ocean or returning from there.

However, ordinary people also swim along the edges of the bay. Since we lived a stone's throw from Zurriola, we swam here.

Sculptures made of black stone are located on the embankment lined with black tiles. The embankment with sculptures matches the nearby Kursaal Congress Palace and Auditorium, a modern complex-shaped building built to host various cultural events. In particular, film festivals and jazz festivals are held here every year.

Kursaal stands on both the ocean and the river, where the Urumea River flows into the Atlantic Ocean.

The Urumea River divides the city into two parts. Along the river, the most representative buildings of San Sebastian are lined up opposite each other.

Yellow house with a dome - Hotel Maria Cristina

Opposite the Victoria Eugenia Theater

There are beautiful bridges across the river.

Maria Christina Bridge

We cross the river along the Kursaal bridge and find ourselves on the green and spacious Donostia Boulevard. We go to the tourism office and take a map of the city.

Old town and Urgul hill

Donostia Boulevard runs along the isthmus of a peninsula stretched into the ocean.

Donostia Boulevard

The peninsula ends with Urgul Hill. Between the hill and Donostia Boulevard lies the Old Town.

There are not a lot of attractions in San Sebastian. And the Old Town can be called “old” with a big stretch.

After Napoleon's invasion, little remained here: two churches and about thirty houses. Let's say this Gothic church of San Vicente is from the 16th century.

And the nearby church of Santa Maria del Coro is on the 18th.

Magnificent baroque portal

Between them, in the depths of the houses, hides the rectangular Plaza de la Constitution - the main square of the Old Town, where bullfights were once held.

And here is one of the old houses

Another attraction of San Sebastian is art museum San Telmo, which is located in a former monastery.

Near the San Telmo Museum, the climb up Urgull Hill begins. There are several options for climbing to the top of the hill, in particular one of them is located behind the Church of Santa Maria del Coro.

We rise to the level of church bells

Urgul Hill is covered with forest, and there are paths through the forest.

One of the paths leads to a modest cemetery for English sailors (they defended the fort from Napoleonic soldiers)

At the top there is a former English fortress with cannons. There is a small museum in the fortress. It is free, but when passing through the museum, the employee asks what country you are from and notes (apparently, for statistics).

The museum houses an exhibition dedicated to the history of the city and the fortress. Samples of guns, military uniforms, diagrams.

Photos in the museum

Swimwear from the beginning of the last century

From the museum, a staircase leads to an observation deck, to the foot of the statue of Christ. This statue can be seen from many points in the city.

Co observation deck there is an excellent view of the city.

Buon Pastor Church

You can see a curved bay with a strip of yellow beaches abutting another hill - Igueldo.

We go down to the other side of the hill and find ourselves near the local Aquarium and Maritime Museum. A little further is the port.

Beaches of San Sebastian La Concha and Ondorreta

Having passed the port, we come to the most remarkable building of San Sebastian, which has become its calling card - the City Hall. In the past it housed a casino. (There is still a casino in San Sebastian, but it is located in a different location).

City Hall, or Ayuntamiento

There is a nice park in front of the City Hall. In general, this part of the city is the most pleasant. The wide and spacious La Concha (“Shell”) beach begins here, and a promenade stretches along the beach from the city hall.

Statue of Jesus between the towers of City Hall. People are visible on the observation deck

La Concha Beach

Clock on the embankment

This elegant pavilion housed the royal baths.

Hotels line the left side.

Concha Beach rests on a rocky outcrop. A tunnel has been cut into the rock.

Above this ledge is Miramar Castle - the former royal residence Queen Maria Christina, built in 1893 in the English style.

Now the castle is open to the public. Inside, everything is quite simple, no frills. The residence is “decorated” with modern installations.

Flowerbeds in front of the castle

Behind the rocky outcrop begins Ondarreta Beach.

Ondarreta Beach

And opposite it lies a block of private villas.

Ondarreta beach is 600 meters long and ends on the Igueldo hill.

You can climb the hill by cable car (for 1.75 euros). However, it won’t take long to get there on your own. We went up by cable car and walked back down.

Igeldo is higher than Urgul Hill. The statue of Christ appears below.

Between the hills of Igueldo and Urgul in the center of the bay, the small island of St. Clara, popularly nicknamed “Turtle,” sticks out of the water. They say there is also a small beach on it.

At the top of Igueldo there is a cafe and amusement park. They even built a river along which you can float in a boat, and all this on the edge of an abyss.

How do you like a ride on such a train? I think the kids will be very impressed.

A walk along the ocean from one end of the city to the other can take about two hours.

City center. Cathedral of Buon Pastor

The beaches and promenade of San Sebastian are by far the most attractive part of the city. However, it is also pleasant to walk inside the city districts.

The city, as I already mentioned, was built in the Art Nouveau style. This style is characterized by smooth curved lines, floral patterns, and fluidity. Wandering around San Sebastian, you will come across expressive details at every step. Looking at them is a pleasure!

There are many parks, fountains, squares.

Gipuzkoa Plaza - park district

The dominant feature of this part of the city (the area is called Amara) is the Cathedral of the Good Pastor - Buon Pastor. The cathedral was built in the neo-Gothic style in 1897, all under the same Queen Maria Cristina. They say that the architect Echave made his project with an eye on the Cologne Cathedral.

Sunlight, penetrating into the cathedral through stained glass windows, colors the interior of the church.

City life is in full swing around the cathedral; it can be said to be the heart of the city.

From the Cathedral of Buon Pastor, the wide Loyola Calea, filled with shops, begins.

There is a building behind the cathedral cultural center. And behind it stretches a pedestrian street with restaurants. And here we smoothly move on to the next section.

Food and drinks. Pinchos, tapas, pacharan

The basis of local catering is pintxos and tapas. The line between them is fragile, but it exists.

Tapas is a snack for one tooth: a tartlet, a rosette with olives, nuts. Often their cost is included in the price of the ordered drink. So, at the bar, when ordering a glass of beer, they gave me a plate with pieces of chopped jamon. “Tapas” is translated as “lids” - historically, a glass of wine was covered, like a lid, with a small sandwich.

Tapas at the bar

If tapas is a pan-Spanish phenomenon, then pintxos were invented in San Sebastian. "Pintxos" means "skewers" or "pins" in Basque. Like, these are pieces of food strung on a skewer. But often mini-portions of regular dishes are also classified as pintxos. So, trying to figure out the menu, I saw the same names in both the main dishes section and the pintxos section. Only the main course cost about 12 euros, and pintxos with the same name - about 3. So there is a great opportunity not to take a “pig in a poke”, but to try a mini-portion of this “cat”.
The cost of pintxos is 2-3 euros. For a full meal, 3-4 pieces are enough. So, on the first evening I ordered 4 pintxos. They brought me a piece of stewed beef, two large mussels in batter, some other meat and a sandwich with goose liver. The foie gras was the most tender, and subsequently I always took such pintxos on occasion. True, in the first cafe it turned out to be the most delicious.

As in all of Spain, the menu of the day is in use here - “ menu del dia". It includes a first and second course (choice from 3-5 items), wine, dessert and sometimes coffee. It turns out profitable. This menu of the day costs 9-15 euros.

Well, and, of course, in San Sebastian you need to eat fish and seafood (“Pescados y mariscos”). There are many restaurants with such signs in the port area, next to the maritime museum and the Aquarium. Some have menus in Russian.

Winemaking in the Basque Country has a long tradition, so I won’t give any special recommendations. I think any of the local wines will not cause disappointment. I will only say about such local drinks as chakoli and pacharan.
Txacoli (“txacoli”) is a young, slightly carbonated wine of a greenish hue, very pleasant to the taste. Pacharan (“patxaran”) is a symbiosis of anise tincture with sloe liqueur. I thought it was too sweet, but many people like pacharan.

As throughout Spain, the siesta is sacredly observed in the Basque Country. Try not to delay lunch - restaurants usually close at 15:00.

I have been to San Sebastian three times - twice in August and once on New Year holidays. In summer, both times the ocean was warm and calm (unlike Portugal and). I was surprised that there are also quite a lot of people here in winter. Vacationers strolled along the embankment, looked into shops, and sat in cafes. Although, of course, the evening January San Sebastian looked a little sad, like everyone else resort town in the off-season.

But in the summer it’s nice here. So, if you want to visit the ocean, San Sebastian is not a bad option at all. No wonder the Spanish kings loved him so much.

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San Sebastian was once a fishing village and the largest exporter of olive oil to England and France, and today largest city Basque Country, one of the most elegant and fashionable Spanish resorts and a paradise for surfers.

San Sebastian owes the origins of resort life to the wife of Emperor Napoleon III, Eugenia Montijo, who first brought the imperial court here. Modern San Sebastian is a resort mainly for Europeans: the French or British vacation here, and you almost never see Russians or Asians here.

Along with Madrid and Barcelona, ​​San Sebastian is considered one of the most expensive cities in Spain.

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How to get there

By plane

San Sebastian has its own airport, but there are no direct flights from Russia to this city. Iberia and Vueling fly here with a transfer in Madrid or Barcelona; tickets cost from 300 EUR (round trip). The airport is located 22 km from the city center. You can get from there to the center by regular buses(they go frequently, fare is 1.65-2.35 EUR) or by taxi (8-10 EUR). Prices on the page are as of September 2018.

There are four other airports in the vicinity of San Sebastian: in Bilbao, Vitoria, Pamplona and Biarritz.

By train

Air connections between San Sebastian and Russia are not very convenient, so many tourists prefer to fly to Madrid or Barcelona, ​​and from there get to the city by land.

• The train from Barcelona runs three times a day: at 7:30, 14:10 and 15:30. Travel time is from 5.5 to 7 hours, depending on the train, the fare is from 25.90 EUR one way.

• Trains from Madrid leave 5 times a day, the first at 7:30 am and the last at 5:35 pm. The journey takes about 5 hours, the fare starts from 22.15 EUR one way.

San Sebastian is a large city, so trains come here from all over Spain, France, and there are also night trains from Paris and Lisbon.

If you are coming from France, be careful, as this country has its own San Sebastian, and it is a completely different city.

By bus

Bus service in the Basque Country, as well as in Spain as a whole, is well established. Buses are traditionally cheaper than trains, but the journey will be longer. The road from Bilbao to San Sebastian will take about 1.5 hours and cost 6-7 EUR one way. The bus from Madrid to San Sebastian takes 6-6.5 hours, a ticket costs from 15 EUR one way.

Search for flights to Barcelona (the nearest airport to San Sebastian)

Weather in San Sebastian

The climate in San Sebastian is temperate Atlantic. In summer there is no intense heat; the temperature rarely rises above +25 °C. The maximum number of tourists occurs from May to September; at this time it is almost always sunny here, but in winter and in the off-season it is often rainy.

By mid-November the weather deteriorates, and in winter there is usually no more than +7...+10 °C. In the second half of April it becomes warm again - the air warms up to +20 °C, and everything blooms.

San Sebastian is located on the ocean, so the water in the local bays is not as warm as in other Spanish resorts. Comfortable temperatures for swimming range from July to September.

The Atlantic climate is quite unpredictable: in the off-season it is equally likely to be cloudy and rainy, or sunny.

San Sebastian Hotels

Most hotels in San Sebastian are concentrated in the city center (El Centro). The center, in turn, is usually divided into two parts: Old Quarter(parte vieja) and Miraconcha.

The Old Quarter contains the main city attractions; it is very colorful and beautiful, with many bars and restaurants. However, it can be noisy at night, and since many hotels occupy historical buildings, there are interruptions in hot water and other amenities.

In the Miraconcha area, the hotels are more modern; this is where the main city beach and the beautiful promenade along it are located. Accordingly, prices in this quarter are the highest in the city.

Outside historical center there are several interesting areas. It’s also convenient to live in, there are relatively few tourists, and prices are slightly lower than in the center:

• Amara vieja (Old Amara) - this residential area is adjacent to the center and is considered prestigious among the local population.
• Gros- shopping mall city, there are many shops, street cafes and inexpensive bars. This is where the Zuriola surfer beach is located.
• El Antiguo is a quiet, calm neighborhood often chosen by families with children; the family beach Ondarreta is located here.
• Eguia is a green area, home to the large urban park Cristina Enea and the main train station.

The most luxurious hotel in San Sebastian is Maria Cristina, a luxury collection 5*, the only five-star hotel in the city, located overlooking the Bay of Biscay. From June to October, the hotel's restaurant is run by Michelin-starred French chef Hélène Darroze. A double room here costs from 500 EUR per night.

A 4* hotel in the city center will cost from about 80-150 EUR, a good three ruble can be rented from 60 EUR, a room in guest house- from 45 EUR per day for a double room, and a bed in a hostel - from 20 EUR per day per person.

Beaches of San Sebastian

Famous Playa de la Concha(Playa de la Concha) in the shape of a crescent is located in the city center in a quiet bay, surrounded by lush tropical vegetation. Tourists and locals love it for its well-groomed environment and beautiful views. Right on the shore is the hydropathic resort la Perla, which offers health and beauty treatments.

In the center of the bay, which follows the shape of a shell, is the small island of Santa Clara with a small lighthouse on top, surrounded by many sailing yachts. On both sides of the bay there are two mountains: on the left there is a beautiful castle and an amusement park, on the right there is a statue of Christ.

Playa de Ondaretta(Playa de Ondaretta) - quieter and calmer clean beach with coarse yellow sand. This is a popular place for a relaxed family vacation, there are also often waves here, and then surfers come to this beach. It is separated from Playa de da Concha by the Pico del Loro rock: for the convenience of vacationers, a tunnel has been cut through it.

Beach Playa de Zurriola(Playa de Zuriola) was formerly known as Playa de Gros. It is open to all winds and therefore very popular among surfers; there are always a lot of young people here. In 1994, a breakwater was built here for safety, and the beach area was expanded by adding sand. There are sports grounds, many beach bars, surf schools and board rentals, and concerts, festivals and parties are often held here.

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Shopping in San Sebastian

The people of San Sebastian have a reputation in Spain for being fashionable. In the Old Town there are many shops and boutiques of both luxury and mid-price segments. Most of the brands presented are Spanish (some of them do not reach Russia), but there are also other popular European brands. Most of the shops are located on Libertad Avenue.

It is best to buy Spanish delicacies at the Mercado San Martin and Mercado de la Bretxa food markets, and interesting souvenirs at prices lower than in other shops are sold in the Akuna matata store.

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Cuisine and restaurants

Basque cuisine is considered the best in all of Spain. It is in San Sebastian that there are several restaurants that have earned Michelin stars.

There are only two restaurants in the world awarded three Michelin stars: one of them is located in Paris and the other in San Sebastian.

Restaurants in San Sebastian serve traditional Basque dishes, seafood in all possible variations and the famous pintxos. Pintxos are a local variety of Spanish tapas, small sandwiches or canapés with all sorts of fillings. They are served everywhere here - from small eateries to elegant restaurants with signature cuisine. It is customary to wash them down with beer, wine, in particular traditional Basque white sparkling wine“Txakoli”, or apple cider (sidra). It is made here according to a special traditional recipe and sold in the same bottles as cava (Spanish sparkling wine).

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Excellent pintxos are served at the Casa Valles gastropub next to the Cathedral. The Nagusia bar on the street of the same name is a real museum of pintxos, with perhaps the largest selection in the city. Prices start from 2.90 EUR per piece. For seafood, you should go to the La Mejilonera restaurant, for traditional Basque cuisine (there is also a lot of seafood there, and the meat is excellent) - to La Cuchara de San Telmo or to La Zurri Jatetxea in the Old Town.

Arzak is the same restaurant that was awarded three Michelin stars. This family restaurant new Basque cuisine, the menu is updated every six months, the signature dish is smoked white tuna with fresh figs and pine nuts. The tasting menu costs from 200 EUR per person excluding drinks.

In more affordable establishments you can have dinner for 50 EUR for two; for lunch, many of them offer a set menu costing from 10 EUR per person. You can also have a snack at pintxos bars for 10 EUR per person, excluding drinks.

Guides in San Sebastian

Entertainment and attractions of San Sebastian

Despite the fact that San Sebastian has burned almost to the ground several times throughout its history, some architectural monuments have still been preserved here. In the Old Town, called Alde Sajarra, it is worth visiting the Basilica of Santa Maria del Coro (named after the patron saint of San Sebastian), built in the Baroque style; the church of St. Vincent, a neo-Gothic building from the 19th century, and the ethnographic museum of San Telmo, whose building at the foot of Mount Urgull housed a monastery in the 16th century. Today, historical evidence of the richest Basque culture is kept here, and the walls of the museum are painted with frescoes based on the history of the region and Basque legends.

One of the most unusual museums city ​​- Sea Palace-Aquarium near the port. In fact, these are two small museums in one - the first tells about the history of Basque fishing, the second about the naval history of the region. The museum has transparent tunnels, through which you can observe sharks and other marine life.

The old quarter in the city center (parte vieja) is one big attraction in itself. In its center is Constitution Square, which once served as a bullfighting arena. On the square there is an ancient library building - formerly the city hall, and nearby - the neoclassical Ayete Palace - the former residence of Franco, and the Miramar Palace, located between the beaches of Playa de la Concha and Playa de la Ondaretta - former residence of Queen Maria Cristina.

Where to go in San Sebastian

The calling card of the city, its symbol has become the La Concha embankment with its famous balustrades and lanterns. Thanks to the proximity of France, the new quarters of San Sebastian are imbued with motifs of French romantic architecture: buildings in the Art Nouveau, Belle Epoque styles and even the futuristic cubes of the Kursaal Congress Center, which was recognized as the best building in Europe in 2001.

The top of Mount Igueldo, reached by cable car, offers panoramic views of the city and coastline.

There is a beautiful pedestrian promenade along the bay - a great place for romantic walks. In its western part there is a symbolic sculpture “El Peine del Viento” - “The Comb of the Wind” by Eduardo Chillida. It symbolizes the finitude of the beach and the mainland itself, washed on three sides by the waves of the Atlantic Ocean. Essentially, these are intricately twisted rails embedded in a rocky dead end, through which rusty iron balls pass waves. The essence of the monument is to remind that nothing man-made can resist the forces of nature.

To the west of San Sebastian begins the picturesque rocky coast of the Costa Basca - the birthplace of the sparkling wine “txakoli” and the region of many ancient cities.

5 things to do in San Sebastian:

1. Look into tourist office for free advice on your city break.
2. Regardless of the weather, get your feet wet in the Bay of Biscay.
3. Climb the hill to the statue of Christ.
4. Visit as many tapas bars as possible in an evening.
5. After warming up with cider or something stronger, go to the disco and party until the morning.

Maps of San Sebastian

Events

Life in the city is vibrant. In July, San Sebastian hosts Europe's most famous jazz festival, Jazzaldia, and in September, the international film festival. Among other cultural events, it is worth noting a theater festival, an advertising festival, a surfing film festival, an electronic music festival, and a children's “tamborrada” on St. Sebastian's Day (a competition for young drummers on the city streets). Several times a year, stages of various world and European sailing regattas take place in San Sebastian.

Located away from the main tourist routes known to Russians. This is a city that Russian-speaking vacationers may visit only by chance or attracted to it by a business exhibition, film festival or other cultural event. San Sebastian is little mentioned in popular guidebooks to Spain, and among Russians this city is not considered popular destination for the trip. But I must say frankly - it’s very in vain!

If you are Russian, then you will most likely have to go on a trip to San Sebastian from Barcelona, ​​since a powerful tourist flow runs through this city, feeding the entire coastal Spain with travelers and their money. For this very reason, there is a high probability that, while vacationing or living in Spain, you will find yourself in Catalonia, on one of its coasts, or directly in Barcelona.

But if you are a tourist who has been basking in the Mediterranean sun more than once and is sure that Spain is unlikely to be able to surprise you with anything else, then San Sebastian is a must for you. If you have lived in Spain for several years, then consider that San Sebastian seriously claims to be a rival to all your loved ones national places rest. In fact, it will turn out to be an unpredictably different city, radically and advantageously different from the crowded resort coasts of the Costa Brava, Costa del Sol or the like, “promoted” to the whole world. The arguments for a trip to San Sebastian, which are planned to be given below, will be considered in detail and gradually. Believe me, the city deserves it!

Road to San Sebastian

Mercedes S 500, average speed 120 km/h, four passengers on board

The recommended means of transportation on this trip will undoubtedly be a good, comfortable car, from the window of which all the landscapes will be especially attractive. And not only because the exact distance from Barcelona to San Sebastian on the maps is 580 kilometers of fantastic mountain slopes and romantic foggy distances. Add to this the length of all the hospitable streets of the three pearls of Spain, which you can’t help but stop in along the way. These are Lleida, Zaragoza and Pamplona. The route leading us to San Sebastian runs through these beautiful and ancient cities of Spain, and driving past without stopping would be a careless oversight. For example, in Lleida and Zaragoza there are chic, awe-inspiring cathedrals, the sight of which can easily become an ardent Catholic for a while. And in Pamplona you can warm up by running in the company of angry bulls along the narrow shady streets, fighting them off with a rolled-up newspaper. And to be honest, you need to drive through these towns precisely on the eve of your date with San Sebastian, a city unlike any other in Spain.

The quality of the roads is excellent. Multi-lane toll highways with perfectly smooth surfaces and no bends will bring real pleasure to every driver. The permitted speed on the roads varies from 80 to 120 km per hour. If the speedometer exceeds 200 km per hour, the driver will immediately be called a criminal and may be sent to prison. There are many gas stations along the highway, there is plenty of fuel, and there is usually a cafe nearby where you can find something to eat.

On the way we will definitely have lunch at Lleida, having a medieval roast to keep you from getting hungry until the late dinner that is sure to happen in Zaragoza. We'll spend the night here. And leaving in the morning for San Sebastian, we will take a ride under a strange concrete arch, into which, as it turns out, an invisible Greenwich meridian(Meridiano de Greenwich), passing through Spanish soil. Further, the attention of travelers is suddenly attracted by hordes of snow-white graceful giants - Don Quixote’s favorite enemies, who have matured and have greatly advanced in their technical development over the past two centuries. He probably would not have been able to cope with these windmills even with the help of Rocinante and Sancho Panza combined.

The many hills and hills along the highway are home to hundreds of modern wind power generators. From afar, the eye does not immediately perceive the real size of these devices, but when you drive closer to one of them, there is no doubt - they are gigantic! The scale of application of solar energy is no less impressive. On several plateaus, instead of the usual olive groves or orange plantations, countless cohorts of hefty silver-cadmium tablets made from photocells froze. When you look into the distance you realize there are thousands of them!

At the sixth hundred kilometers, at the entrance to San Sebastian, the wide expressway narrows to a single lane and begins to wobble. And on both sides of the highway there are steep slopes covered with impenetrable lush forest. It turns out that the city is well protected on all sides by nature itself. This played a role in its history, wars and victories. Until now, the Basques, the people living on this land, cannot come to terms with the power of Spain, which annexed them, constantly conduct separatist subversive activities and want to achieve complete independence of the region. They probably really want to finally sit quietly in their mountains in splendid isolation and not let anyone in. So that enemies don’t suddenly come and eat all their delicious sandwiches!

The city of San Sebastian – tourist impressions

First ten days of April

Suddenly we find ourselves in the city. We had just been surrounded by dense forest on all sides, when suddenly, instead of oaks and cypresses, modern multi-story buildings made of mirror glass and smooth gray concrete loomed over the road. It is immediately noticeable that the streets are beautifully landscaped, there are many well-groomed trees of exotic species on the flowering lawns, spacious squares and parks are laid out along the road, appropriate fountains flow in cozy squares and talented sculptural compositions stand frozen. The overall impression is inspiring; you want to immediately stop and walk along these streets.

We are approaching the hotel, which, judging by the map, is located a step away from the Bay of Biscay (Mar Cantabrico) and the embankment of the city river. Although let’s not forget that beneath the name of the bay lies His Majesty the Atlantic Ocean itself. After all, there are no physical boundaries between water flows.

Our luxurious five-star Hotel Maria Cristina overlooks the Urumea River embankment, which geographically divides the city into two parts. We get out of the car and at the same moment we realize by the smell - the ocean is nearby! It is curious that, by Spanish standards, April is the height of spring, and, for example, in Catalonia at this time of year it is already quite warm, people go for a walk in a light shirt, the ground is warm, and even by the sea there is a gentle wind, promising an early summer. But San Sebastian is not warm Mediterranean Sea. Here the host is the harsh Atlantic Ocean, which means the weather is different.

Despite the sunny day, the spicy air seems to be saturated with freshly opened cool oysters, freshly caught seaweed and touches the face with a barely perceptible frosty chill. It gently tickles the nostrils with its icy breath and envelops guests in an unusual chilly aura. Even after several hours spent walking around San Sebastian, this aroma of the ocean does not fade, but continues to be clearly distinguished throughout the skin and with every breath. Its invisible icy radiation from the immense masses of salt water average temperature no higher than 9 degrees Celsius spreads deep into the mainland and easily penetrates through houses and walls, as well as into the bodies of warm-blooded vacationers walking along the beach and embankment. But the effect is so invigorating that fatigue from a long journey disappears without a trace in a matter of minutes, obviously not without the participation of the coastal ocean atmosphere with a high oxygen content.

In summer it is not as hot as in the south of Spain, and the water is crystal clear. But even in the city bay you have to keep your eyes open. Treacherous ocean currents can suddenly send a swimmer of any skill level back to their forefathers. When looking from the parapet of the embankment at the seething waters at the mouth of Urumea, one immediately notices the abnormally powerful and rapid movement of huge layers of water. I don't want to swim here yet.

When you first go out onto the city embankment and see the Atlantic, few will be able to resist the exclamations of admiration. The power of the water element strikes a person on an animal level, causing awe and a little frightening. In the endless expanse of the gray ocean surface, like blued steel, something primeval and promising danger sleeps. The city wall that fences off the beach and protects people from storms is perceived as an unkind prediction. Its height, by the way, is six times greater than the breakwaters in Barcelona. Conflicting mixed feelings fill your chest, but you can’t tear yourself away from the contemplation of the almighty abyss. The consciousness understands the dangers hidden in the depths, but the greatness of this cold power is captivating and hypnotizing. But your hands are already starting to get goosebumps, your nose is turning blue, and you have to force yourself to go and warm yourself up in the taverns of the old city.

San Sebastian - clean little Paris

The city of San Sebastian is small. Only about two hundred thousand people live in it. When you first visit the central area, you immediately find yourself in the heart of the city. There, the guest is greeted by marble paving stones washed to a shine and worn down by the boots of sailors and port revelers, and along it there are endless rows of bars, pubs and cafes that close only a few hours a day to quickly wash the floor and prepare a new batch of delicious sandwiches.

The architecture of the city is on the verge of toy beauty. The government spares neither money nor materials for the repair and restoration of buildings. All facades are impeccably plastered, perfectly painted in bold but strict shades. A huge amount of forging, marble and architectural excesses pleasing to the eye. Phenomenal eclectic success in the unity of urban style is achieved by focusing on aristocracy and fundamentality. Lampposts, park fences and bench supports are solid cast iron with exquisite flourishes and plant symbolism. On the streets there is not a single extra shiny piece of iron with which the stingy city authorities so love to disfigure the Spanish province. The names of streets and shops, written in large, beautiful angular fonts in the native Basque language, give everything a special charm.

San Sebastian is also puzzling with its cleanliness. During a few days of idle wandering through its streets, you involuntarily come across a banal question: “Who keeps order here?” Objectively, it is worth admitting that nowhere in Europe, and especially in Spain, have we seen such impeccably clean sidewalks. It is almost impossible to find even a candy wrapper! And this does not mean that you are in an abandoned alley. Even on the central avenue, everywhere there is impeccable cleanliness, close to disinfection. During our 4 days of walking, not a single dirty street was found. Let's say more, a suspicious feeling of the mystical magic used by the residents of San Sebastian to cleanse the city of household garbage creeps into the soul of the visitor. Because it is impossible to clean the city so clean using the methods known to Europeans!

Spanish Armenians

According to some studies, the Basques are considered close relatives of modern Armenians, who 3.5 thousand years ago migrated from the Caucasus, approximately from the territory of modern Georgia, and moved to the dense forests on the Atlantic coast of the Iberian Peninsula. Proof of this are more than 1000 words in “Escuara” (the Basque language), which completely coincide with their analogues in modern Armenian.

Shopping in San Sebastian

For fashionistas and shopaholics, San Sebastian will be an earthly paradise. There are countless glamorous boutiques and prestigious shops with high-quality rags from all imaginable world brands. In 2009, San Sebastian was officially recognized as the most expensive place to live, with the most high prices for real estate in Spain, and the ordinary population flaunts nothing less than Prada suits and Chanel handbags. Unlike Barcelona or Madrid, where the luxury clothing trade is dominated by stores opened directly by manufacturers, in San Sebastian there are more than a hundred small private boutiques that boldly dictate their rules to customers. Their owners are mostly wealthy women with exquisite taste, who collect a seasonal assortment from the ultra-fresh collections of European fashion designers, talentedly combining items in color, materials and styles. In such a store, the customer gets the impression that he is seeing a new prestigious brand, the existence of which he did not know before. True, for the companions of insatiable fashionistas, all these endless chic showcases are soon turning into an instrument of slow torture. Fortunately, there are quite comfortable benches next to the shops where it’s nice to sit down and put women’s trophies while waiting for another bright paper bag with purchases to be handed over to a man, like a beast of burden.

There are several cheerful shops where they sell national souvenirs and paraphernalia. Be sure to buy a Basque beret! A magical thing, very convenient and comfortable, especially if it starts to rain. Just ask the seller to show you how to put it on correctly. Don’t laugh, but a correctly worn beret is painfully reminiscent of the woolen “aerodrome” caps that were so popular among the Caucasian peoples during the Soviet era. This is clearly another indirect evidence in favor of the theory about the Armenian roots of the local population.

SPA center

In terms of entertainment for tourists in the city, there are several additional options. After an exhausting shopping spree, it will be good for your back muscles to visit the La Perla Marine Spa, located right next to the ocean surf. This is a modern enterprise based on the cult of making financial profit from the flow of wealthy holidaymakers, but with a bit of common sense and tolerable prices.

The spa center is spacious, located on two levels and with a wide range of preventive treatments, natural treatments and aesthetic services on the third floor of the general building. Entrance to the block with the bubbling pools costs 25 euros per person for a 2-hour stay. The water there is real ocean water, heated and purified. On the first level there is a large water tank with hydromassage jets and a giant Jacuzzi for 12 people, as well as comfortable daybeds with infrared heating for bones tired from trying on new clothes. On the floor below there is another series of swimming pools, several saunas, both dry and wet, and various showers with contrasting water temperatures.

Towards evening, the entire complex shimmers with multi-colored lights from countless LEDs, closed in a single logical circuit and synchronously changing the shades of the common space depending on the style of music accompanying the relaxation. It's a nice, trendy place that's a pleasure to visit for both young couples and retirees. Swimming trunks and a swimsuit can be sold right at the entrance for an additional 40 euros. If you've just met and are in the midst of a romantic period, the main pool, rhythmically partitioned with stone slabs, has many intimate corners where you can easily retire among the bubbling salt waterfalls. The depth there is about one and a half meters, the water temperature is +31 C.

Entertainment

San Sebastian has its own casino. This is a small provincial establishment, designed for a hundred visitors who are not seeking immediate enrichment. Located in the city center, they try to charge 8 euros for entry. But if you say that you are staying at one of the five-star hotels and show the key to your room, they will let you in for free. The bright scarlet color in the interior is somewhat surprising. Everything here is red, from the croupier’s clothes to the tables and even the wall upholstery. Therefore, the usual bloody dress will not give femme fatales any privileges, unless it merges with the staff. It would probably be better for them to dress in white this time. The dealers are professional, the starting bets are low, from 2.5 euros per chip. All drinks are paid, snacks too, winnings at the cash register are given out reluctantly, without smiles or congratulations, looking after you reproachfully. Actually, typical features of a provincial establishment... But in its own way, this is a good place for real gentlemen who have decided to socially while away a quiet weekday evening, while their ladies alternate between massages and peeling in the spa center next door. Don't take more than a thousand euros with you if you're just going to relax. This is enough for half a night of gambling, but please, without fanaticism. This is just entertainment, not a gold mine.

Discos in San Sebastian are nothing special. This is not Ibiza. There is something languidly happening on the dance floor all night, you drink your cocktail in the corner and slowly get ready for bed. For a basic Martini with ice they charge 14 euros. The audience is fashionable, middle-aged, well over thirty, elaborately dressed, and does not hesitate to show off in full height, which in itself becomes a pleasant sight. There are three main points out of a dozen popular ones; every taxi driver will tell you how to get to them. By the way, for a taxi in San Sebastian they immediately charge 5.4 euros upon boarding. In contrast to Barcelona, ​​where the landing price is 2.9, this is a little annoying. Taxis are white, with a light display unit on top of the cab. It is easier to call them through an employee at a hotel or a waiter at a restaurant.

Food in San Sebastian

As such national cuisine in the Basque Country is rich in seafood and is focused on actively eating them in all possible interpretations and combinations. The tiny appetizing snacks “pintxos” are famous all over the world; they have firmly taken the place of a national symbol and are traditionally displayed in street bars for consumption with beer, wine and cider. These tasty morsels include hundreds of types of sandwiches, canapés, and mini-kebabs from every imaginable product.

From early morning until late at night, bars and cafes tempt every passerby with their delicacies. It is unbearably difficult to pass by when, at arm's length, in the rays of bright halogen lamps, your favorite dishes hang over the edge of huge plates and smell terribly attractive. Dozens of bars are located so close to each other that sometimes they are separated by a wall less than a meter thick. A walk along such a street is more reminiscent of visiting a gastronomic exhibition than a city historical center.

Despite such an abundance of establishments gathered in one place, they all have their own differences, their own unique recipes, as well as regulars who stop by every day for a glass of beer at lunchtime and in the evening. It’s curious, but all the bars have a lot of people, and during the general meal hours you have to use some skill to get to the counter. The skills of waiters who unobtrusively but unmistakably determine the exact number of snacks from any distance that the visitor has chosen and placed on his plate deserve respect.

There are several unusual recipes that are worth talking about. They take tiny sardines and quickly fry them in boiling oil with cloves of garlic and pieces of hot chili pepper. As an appetizer it's delicious and makes you want to order a second beer. I was also surprised by the way the ripe, fleshy tomatoes were prepared. They are cut into large rings, fried until golden brown on both sides, and then baked with ham and cheese in batter. The result is such a weighty and satisfying flatbread, when eaten, the contrasting flavors mix, which gives an enchanting result. It goes great with apple cider because of its own slight sourness.

The prices for drinks and snacks in street bars in San Sebastian are not cheap. Considering that a microscopic amount of food is used to prepare canapes, and the main component is a thin slice from a banal loaf of white bread, the price of 3 or even 4 euros per unit of snack is perceived as uncomfortable. But what to do? Glamorous atmosphere prestigious resort for the European elite must be paid for by someone.

An unobtrusive arbitrariness reigns in the restaurants of San Sebastian. Based on the results of multi-day field research, they revealed the unscrupulous financial exploitation of wealthy tourists from all over the world and the widespread feeding of mediocre concoctions under the guise of Basque delicacies to them at exorbitant prices. Without knowing the right places, you can find yourself in an unpleasant situation. The prices are exorbitant, designed for elderly Americans who, before retirement, were waiting for a magical dinner in the Basque Country and in their entire long working lives have never tasted authentic Spanish delicacy. Therefore, such clients are ready to shell out one hundred euros per person for dishes of dubious quality and quantity. In order not to accidentally join them, you will need detailed knowledge of the area and traditions of defrauding tourists.

Don't ask " good restaurant"at the hotel.

They will only earn interest on you, send you to a tourist eatery, where you will have to eat all sorts of nonsense. It is better to use the address below or ask a random passerby for advice in Spanish.

To everyone’s surprise, in San Sebastian they pretend not to know about the existence of divine fresh shrimp from the Catalan Gamba de Palamos. Here, for the same money, they serve fresh “de Huelva” shrimp (Gamba fresca de Huelva), pale orange in color, half the size, without a juicy head, and the “heavenly” taste of which, according to restaurant owners, gives the client You have to instantly roll your eyes and fall backwards. You don't have to order them. The difference from the same frozen penny counterparts is insignificant, and the price is under thirty euros per ten. But, as always, patiently and skillfully separating the wheat from the chaff brings beneficial results. After three tragic mistakes we discovered restaurant "Urola"(Restaurante Urola). In it, all the food wanderings of the last days paid off a hundredfold.

The Urola restaurant is a tiny family business, where the tables are so densely packed that if you chat and poke your fork at the nearest plate, you can easily make a mistake and eat a piece of food from an unfamiliar neighbor. But it is cozy and clean here, the elderly staff are friendly in a fatherly way. And the quality of the cuisine won the hearts and stomachs of the entire company from the first course.

The appetizer was fresh cod belly with white asparagus in rosento egg sauce (Huevo Rosendo con kokotxa fresca de merluza y esparrago). This is the finest mixture in the form of a thick egg broth with fragments of the most tender fish, airy asparagus and several wild spices. Lightning quickly improves your mood.

For the main course we were treated to clams with artichoke sprouts in their own juice (Brotes de alcachofa con almejas). Here we will discuss two important points for a gourmet. The first moment is a real find! These are tiny, just formed artichoke buds that turned out to be several times more tender and tastier than their adult version. The question is, where are they sold to ordinary people? And second: the term “almeja” is translated into Russian as “sea mollusk.” That's all. An offensive and, as of today, incorrigible omission. Like Russian pancakes, cheesecakes and pies can be translated into any foreign language simply by the term “fried”.

And finally, the main and long-awaited dish on our table was the live Atlantic lobster. He, kicking furiously and struggling for life, was pompously removed from the aquarium and demonstrated to customers. At that moment, the two-kilogram lobster took the last chance to avenge itself and sprayed its tormentors with salt water. For this insolence he was quickly fried on a hot stove with olive oil. We ate it in a minute and now bear witness responsibly. It was the most delicious lobster out of many of its fellows, which we repeatedly tried in different countries for 10 years of travel.

Perhaps, all the minor irregularities in the public catering system of San Sebastian can easily be forgiven for this one Atlantic lobster, which lives in local waters and is undoubtedly a fatty and aromatic reason to travel six hundred kilometers to taste it. In terms of price, it is also advantageous. In the restaurant they sell it by live weight, and the price is only 85 euros per kilogram, which is exactly two times cheaper than in other provinces of Spain. Don't neglect your limbs! The most delicious pieces are hidden in the bony head of the sea animal. When all the meat lying on the plate within easy reach of a regular fork has been eaten, you must firmly and mercilessly crush the prickly shell and thin long legs with tongs, extracting the precious pulp. Bon appetit!

So, I hope that in July I will be able to take a car from Barcelona and travel for several days around the Basque country. And then relax in San Sebastian on the beach. Please help me with answers to my questions. I have already included some in topics, but I want to systematize them.
1. Water temperature in the first ten days of July in SS. They have said more than once that it is cool, but will it still be 23 degrees? The fact is that we are planning to go to Tenerife for a week in May, so the ocean beach holiday we will have. Well, that is, the ocean is cold, but the views are beautiful - it will be in Tenerife. And yet, in July, I still want to enjoy kilometer-long swims without fear of cramps. But I also want to go to San Sebastian. Do you think it will be possible to combine?
2. Because We will be leaving Barsa by car, will it be possible to return from the SS to Barsa by plane? or better by train? I don't want to go back by car. I think there will be no issues with renting out a car at SS if you choose a large rental car.
3. Maybe there will be advice on specific hotels or areas of the city? I am so spoiled by detailed forums on Tenerife and other resorts in Spain, where they will advise you down to the street of accommodation and specific restaurants, that I want to go to SS just as savvy.
4. About the route through the Basque country and towns - I will ask questions later, when we have already decided on the dates, but if someone can advise the route offhand, I will be very grateful.
5. Another question - a friend was in Bilbao on business - she says it’s a gloomy industrial city. Tell me, how is the environment there? Maybe it’s worth driving around some particularly industrial areas? We have enough pipes in MSC too :-)
6. Well, any other information that you have on my topics of the Basque country and holidays in the SS will be received with gratitude.
Thanks in advance everyone!

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Don't dream.

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Both.

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The most famous beach in the city is called La Playa de La Concha, along it on Paseo de la Concha there are a bunch of hotels, but they are terribly expensive. Close to the beach old town, there are hostals in the area of ​​the street. St. Martin, but also not cheap. In general, San Sebastian is an expensive city. We lived in the village of Zarautz near San Sebastian, in the hotel Zarautz http://www.hotelzarauz.com/es/hotel.htm. I really liked both the place and the hotel. The beach is huge, the town is calm and respectable, there are cafes along the beach, and right there is the pride of the local culinary scene - the famous Argignano restaurant. I recommend it.
http://spaintravel1.narod.ru/photo96.jpg- I took this photo in May on Zarautz beach

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I rode this route a couple of years ago, I liked it, although my companion was terribly tired and said that it was too intense. On way back We drove through Aragon and stopped at a godforsaken village where the Goya house museum is located.
Barcelona - Lerida - Huesca - Navara - Pais Vasco
1 dia Salida de Barcelona. N-240 Lerida - MONZON - BARBASTRO
El Castillo de Monzon
Huesca A -132 dir.Averbe 1026 hasta Loarre
Castillo de Loarre
Seguimos por A-132 dir. Santa Cruz de la Seros
visita monasterio San Juan de la Peña A-1603 7 km. de la ciudad
El Monasterio de San Juan de la Peña

2 dia. Monasterio de Leyre -Castillo de Javier - Sanguesa - Ujue - Olite - - Artajona

La ciudad de Sanguesa

La Navarra Media: Artajona
N-121 Hasta Pamplona, ​​despues A-15 Tolosa, Donostia-San-Sebastian
Todo el dia en San Sebastian
4 dia car. N-10, despues pasamos a la verde B-638
San Sebastian - Lazarte/Oria (pasamos) - Zarautz (playa, paseo maritimo) - Getaria - Zumaia - Ondarroa - Lekeitio
5 dia Reserva de la Biosfera de Urdabait Lekeitio-Bermejo BI-638
Dormimos in Bilbao
Gauteguiz de Arteaga, castillo
Cueva de Santimamiñe
El bosque animado de Oma,
6 dia BILBAO
Guggenheim
7 dia Santander

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Quote: Well, “a bunch of hotels” - you missed it. There are only two hotels on the beach itself, Londres and Niza, and they are not that expensive. In general, hotels in San Sebastian are difficult. Mostly people live in boarding houses.
Of the hotels, besides those already mentioned, I can recommend Tryp Orly - it is on the “second line”, two steps to the beach and the street is quiet and calm. In the same building, boarding houses occupy several floors on both sides. I don’t know what the conditions are there, but the location is good.
Also about the boarding houses in the old town - they are very noisy there. The specificity of the city's evening and nightlife is that everyone walks from bar to bar, while eating, drinking and socializing on the street. If the room's windows face such a street, forget about a restful sleep. Therefore, I advise you to live in the “new city” and walk in the “old city”.

thanks for the answers. If the water is cold, a logical question arises - SS is very popular resort, i.e. Isn't the temperature of the water important? So what? nature, air?
Ally, on what dates did you vacation there? Guesthouses are apartments, as I understand it?

What a busy itinerary you had, Svetasa. We can’t handle this, we are crazy about the car in Moscow, so traveling by car is more a necessity than a whim, because otherwise you won’t really get to the interior of the country on your own. But we will plan 2-3 days.

Quote: we were in August. The water was warm, the air temperature was not too hot. It was very comfortable.
Quote: I have not been to other coasts.
but the features of the SS:
1. ocean
2. the Basque country with its own cuisine (very tasty), its own language (completely incomprehensible), and in general they do not consider themselves Spain.
3. there are no specialized ones beach hotels, as in the same Costa Dorada. By the way, city beaches are free, there are safes, showers, and changing rooms. There are no sun loungers. Chairs and umbrellas are available for an additional fee. but mostly everyone brings their own towels and umbrellas.

Oh yes, the cuisine of the Basque country is one of the things that makes us want to visit it..
Um...what language do the people there communicate with each other: both tourists and the local population? English and Spanish, or mostly basic, not counting the hotel staff?

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In the 19th and early 20th centuries. I was resting there royal family and accordingly the city became prestigious. The center is built up with beautiful elegant houses, the city is very elegant, the atmosphere of a prestigious European resort, nothing in common with the southern Spanish viper houses. Along with Santander, one of the most beautiful cities in the country.

SS is a comfortable, elegant city with great tapas bars... A hundred points will be given to this... Vic Cristina Barcelona... But the hotels there didn’t seem very good to me... In the price range of up to 170 euros per night, I mean. .and it’s very noisy and crowded...it’s worth living and splashing around somewhere outside the city and coming to SS for a party in the evenings.

In general, as I understand it, in the case of the SS, you need to decide, “checkers or go” (well, like with the same Canaries). Or a beautiful city with a “feeling of the ocean” and minute splashing of the coast, or other resorts with warm sea, sun, crowded beaches, resort hotels, noisy promenades, etc. (the second one is also cool)?

San Sebastian is not crowded, but very crowded. In any cafe-restaurant, out of habit, you will never find a seat, everything is packed: both in expensive restaurants and in eateries. The feeling is that no one is working, from 4 pm there are people everywhere, with babies in pubs; as the guide explained, residents do not like to sit at home in cafes. They had to explain themselves mostly on their fingers: they are not Spaniards, English is not their language either. The atmosphere is unique, but I couldn’t stay there for long. I want to sit quietly in a restaurant, and not grab “pintxos” from who knows what and with what.

Hardly the Atlantic coast Spain or France will become a popular trend this season. Most people, out of habit, will choose something beautiful, but rather hackneyed. Costa Brava , Costa Blanca or Costa Dorada on the Mediterranean Sea. Mainly due to the relative ease of transfer there from Kyiv.

But suddenly someone wants a new sensation, a cool salty breeze from the Atlantic, a delicious tortilla with salted cod. Or plunge into medieval Pamplona and see the famous San Fermin - a festival during which the bull runs through the city streets. Then you are in the Basque country, in San Sebastian and its surroundings.

Atlantic coast and center of the country, San Sebastian- gastronomic and culinary capital of Europe, the Basque country. Where to stay, what to see, what to do and how to spend two days on the Atlantic coast. Basic sights of San Sebastian and where to go around the city. How to get there - main airports, railway, bus and rental car.

Travel route in Spain

The idea of ​​traveling around Spain had been brewing for a long time; the thirst for travel was fueled by good prices for flights to Barcelona at early booking. We started the route from Barcelona, ​​primarily because we knew this city well, and we also wanted to visit the warm Costa Brava. In addition to this, we literally captured the hot Zaragoza (+42), the cool (+29) coast of the Bay of Biscay - San Sebastian and Zarautz, and then went to the San Fermin festival (pictured) (running of the bulls through the city streets). The intermediate finish in Valencia and the Costa Blanca lasted for five whole days. In addition, at least a dozen small stops in cities and towns, including all .

For those who are not in the know, San Sebastian or Donostia San Sebastian as the Basques call it, is located on the Atlantic coast of Spain, in the Basque country and is only 50 km away. from France and famous resort Biarritz. It was not by chance that I remembered France. San Sebastian is in some places almost a clone of Paris, but in the summer it’s better here because there is the Ocean.

When to go on holiday to San Sebastian

In the summer there is nothing to do in the center of Spain, but we still stopped in Zaragoza in transit at the end of July. This is desert heat over 40 and almost empty cities during the day; mid-summer is the low season for most cities in central Spain. The exception is Pamplona, ​​which hosts the San Fermin festival at this time. We will talk about this later separately.

San Sebastian- This is the Atlantic coast, so the high season there is at the end of summer, mid-July-August. True, the high season, in addition to the weather, brings with it flocks of migrating wealthy Europeans who come to the Basque country for gastronomic emotions, simply the fantastic beauty of the city located in picturesque bay and comfortable weather.

San Sebastian– an expensive resort, I would even say very expensive. Cannes, in comparison, is a rural holiday in the suburbs of Nice, and Nice lags behind in terms of prices.

Beaches of San Sebastian

La Concha- the most photographed, most visited and most popular beach on the entire Atlantic coast of Spain. In August it is a hellish place where a normal person has nothing to do. It’s good that we don’t like to lie on the beach, preferring walks or sitting in a bar.

The only plus of this beach, at least in high season, is its photogenicity. A beautiful bay, an island, two hills on either side and a promenade-embankment. There are quite a lot of angles.

Ondarretta– a very slightly less popular beach, located near Igueldo Mountains, from which one of the best views to the city. The same coarse yellow sand and beautiful bay. I liked this beach more, besides there are many small hotels near it.

In addition to the two main beaches there is another 100% surfing spot Zurriola beach and a beach on a small island that blocks the waves from entering the bay. There are boats going to the island beach. We didn't get there.

What to see besides beaches, sights of San Sebastian

Old town San Sebastian

Walk around the city and see ancient and very beautiful buildings and cathedrals from the 19th century. City Hall, Constitution Palace, Cathedral, Victoria Eugenia Theatre.

The truth is Paris Seems like?
Walk through Maria Cristina Bridge, which is reminiscent of Parisian bridges.

Climb to Mount Igeldo. You can do this by cable car; we went up on foot. This best place– natural observation deck over the city.

Castle on grief Urgull.

Go to Aquarium- Europe's largest aquarium, located at the end of the promenade on the embankment. Of all the European and American aquariums I have visited, this is the best.

Square Gipuzkoa, park Miramar next to Ondaretta Beach and Miramar Palace. There are several other parks of a lower rank that we did not get to.

Where to eat in San Sebastian

– a more gastronomic city than Paris. This is evidenced by 16 restaurants marked with stars from the Michelin Red Guide, of which three restaurants are marked with Michelin three times. And this is for 180,000 inhabitants. By the standards of Ukraine - Ivano-Frankivsk or Dneprodzerzhinsk. So, Paris! Let's say goodbye! For me, for example, it was a revelation.

Suddenly one of the readers wants to dine on a special gastronomic experience. Especially for you, friends, addresses of restaurants marked with 3 Michelin stars. And don’t even think that this is a tourist feature, more than half of the visitors are locals and it’s also hard to believe. It's better to check once.

How to get there? Call a taxi, give the name of the restaurant or address.

Akelarri3*

Pº Padre Orkolaga,56 (Igeldo), C.P. 20008, Donostia San Sebastian, tel 943 311209, Email –

The approximate cost of the menu is 170 euros; for dinner for two, prepare at least 450 euros.

Arzak3*

Avenida del Alcalde Jose Elosegi, 273, tel.943 28 5593, Email: This email address is being protected from spambots. You must have JavaScript enabled to view it.

Martin Berasategui3*

Loidi Kalea, 4, Lasarte-Oria, tel.943 36 64 71 Email: This email address is being protected from spambots. You must have JavaScript enabled to view it.

The menu price is 185 euros, dinner for two is approximately 500 euros, and the feast lasts at least three hours.

Mugaritz2*

Otzazulueta Basseria/Aldura aldea, 20 zk. Errenteria, nel. 943 51 8343/943 52 2455 E-mail: This email address is being protected from spambots. You must have JavaScript enabled to view it.

Despite the fact that there are “only” two stars, the prices are the same as in previous options... menu cost 185 euros, dinner for two about 4 hundred euros. This is an experimental restaurant that the chef converted from an old farmhouse.

Going to such restaurants is more than just lunch or dinner; it’s not at all about pathos, which is also present. I'm not a fan of pretentious places and I don't care how many stars a restaurant or hotel has. But this is clearly different, this is an experience that I personally would like to try. And only then draw your own conclusions.

Where can a simple tourist dine?

Wherever you enjoy the view both inside and outside the cafe. For example a restaurant La Perla overlooking the beach La Concha. Lunch at a cafe with beautiful view to the ocean or to the street or tapas bar with the characteristic hanging pork butts will cost about 20-40 euros per person. It's worth a visit to one of the many cider cellars, several in the surrounding hills. Just be careful - cider is a treacherous drink! Try the tortilla with salted cod and steaks, we really liked it. We tried to repeat it at home - because it did NOT work, and this despite the remarkable culinary abilities of my wife.

There is also traditionally a lot of fast food on the city streets, but we won’t talk about it, okay?

How to get to San Sebastian

Within a radius of 100 km. There are three airports through which it is convenient to get to

San Sebastian Airport (EAS)– 20 km. from the city, the Spanish low-cost airline Vueling flies to this airport from popular Madrid and Barcelona

Bilbao Airport (BIO)– 105 km. from the city, an international airport to which all of Europe flies

Biarritz Airport (BIQ)– 40 km. from the city, French airlines and low-cost airlines such as Ryanair fly here

There are hundreds of options to fly if you actively use low-cost airlines in combination with UIA and/or Air France/KLM

Kyiv-San Sebastian, 2 transfers, Kyiv-Vilnius (UIA, Wizz Air) – Vilnius-Barcelona (El Prat) (Ryanair) – Barcelona-San Sebastian (Vueling) – price 350 – 500 dollars

In addition, in Spain flies Iberia and Lufthansa. Alternatively, fly to Madrid and from there drive a rental car along the Atlantic coast along Basque Country.

Get to Madrid easier, for example, through Budapest, to which the same WizzAir flies from Kyiv. Or Lufthansa, which often has promotions on cheap air tickets.

How to buy a cheap air ticket to Spain

I've been using search for over a year now. aviasales– clear functionality, different modes of searching for tickets, flexible dates and the ability to choose an arrival airport that is nearby. In addition, aviasales supports searching for low-cost airlines. We fill in the route, for example Kyiv-Madrid or Kyiv - San Sebastian , Moscow – Madrid or Moscow - and choose best price for air travel.

How to get to San Sebastian from Spanish cities

From cities in Spain you can get by train, company http://www.renfe.com/EN/viajeros/index.html

By bus. A new bus terminal has opened in San Sebastian, from which lovers of budget bus travel can travel throughout Europe.

Terminal address: Paseo Federico Garcia Lorca 1, 20.014 Donostia, near the train station.

By car

From Madrid it's easy to get to San Sebastian via the N1 motorway, the A15 from Pamplona, ​​the AP-8 from Bilbao and the A-63 from Paris.

How to rent a car in Spain

From Kyiv or from Moscow convenient to fly to Madrid, from there travel by rental car, for example to Zaragoza, Pamplona And . I rent a car in . An accessible and intuitive interface, flexible prices, a large selection of not only international but also local rental offices - ideal for budget travelers.

How to book a hotel in San Sebastian

You can directly to Booking.com – Hotels in San Sebastian . Those who want more choice and a wide price range usually search on the mega-search engine HotelsCombined (Room Guru). There are many budget accommodation options in San Sebastian and the surrounding area.

Of the good ones 4* hotels I can recommend:

Hotel Astoria 7, for those who love cinema - each hotel room is dedicated to a movie star and is uniquely decorated accordingly

Hotel Barcello Costa Vasco, 500 meters to Ondaretta beach and close to the Miramar Palace, outdoor pool which operates in July-August.

Hotel NH Collection Aranzazu– I love this hotel chain, besides N.H. Conveniently located - close to the beach and all the main attractions

Hotel La Galeria– located near Ondaretta beach, the hotel itself is a historical building of the 19th century, in the French style. This hotel has the coolest view of La Concha Beach.

Hotel Parma– in the city center, near the old town, almost on the bay, next to Congress Hall.

How to make your holiday in San Sebastian cheaper

Rent an apartment. Make it more convenient through Booking.com - apartments in San Sebastian , prices in good areas near the ocean start from 50 euros per night. Travel with a group– in this case, we divide the costs between and for everyone, it turns out to be about 2-3 times cheaper.

Cooking at home. Apartments are again suitable for this.

Even more budget vacation can be done if you settle not in the town itself, but in the town Zarautz. A beautiful embankment, a much deserted beach, but also a more open ocean and, as a result, higher waves. In fact, the beach is not very suitable for swimming, and there are strong tides in the afternoon.

Ideal for walking around the surrounding area, at the top right, if you are facing the embankment, there is a walking trail above the city along the steep cliffs. Fabulous views and an almost complete absence of tourists - this city is for those who like to plunge into the local atmosphere of the Basque Country. There are practically no tourists here, especially from the CIS countries.

Useful links when planning your travels

Rentalcars – a site for searching and renting cars all over the world with the possibility of free cancellation