Province of Rioja in Spain. The most famous Spanish Rioja in the world Rioja wine region

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"Wine is drunk in the morning for mood, at lunch - for appetite, in the evening - for dreams"

Those who have tried real Spanish wines are very lucky. They may not be as elegant as the wines of Spain or France, but among them you can find real diamonds. Unlike other European countries, Spain has a wide variation in climate caused by its mountainous terrain, the influence of the Atlantic Ocean and Mediterranean Sea. All this contributes to obtaining a fairly wide range of wines. About a quarter of Spanish wines are produced under strict DO (Denomination de Origen) rules, which impose a "Denomination of Origin" designation applied to wines that have a quality guarantee. DO wines include the following wine brands by region: Andalusia: Jerez, Condado de Huelva, Montilla-Moriles, Malaga; Aragon: Carinena, Campo de Borja; Catalonia: Alella, Penedes, Priorato, Ampurdan Costa Brava, Tarragona; La Mancha and New Castilla: Valdepenas, La Mancha, Mentrida, Alamansa; Levante: Jumilla, Valencia, Alicante, Yecla; Navarre: Navarra; Old Castilla: Rueda, Ribera del Duero. In 1991, a category for wines of the highest classification was introduced - Denomination de Origen Calificada (DOC). Rioja remains the only wine to receive this category. The wines of the northern province of Rioja are considered throughout the world as a kind of standard for Spanish wines. Along with sherry, they enjoy a special position even in Spain itself. The basis of their uniqueness lies in the unique combination of soil and climatic factors, grape varieties, artificial limitation of yield and special cultivation methods.

Rioja wines have been produced since ancient times, even before the Roman presence. But it was the ancient Romans who organized local winemaking on a solid basis, as evidenced by the ruins of large wineries that have survived to this day. La Rioja is a green, hilly, high-altitude valley in the upper reaches of the Ebro River, protected from the wind by the Sierra de Cantabria and Sierra de la Demanda mountains. Forty-five thousand hectares of Rioja vineyards are located at an average altitude of 500 meters above sea level. There is a favorable climate for making wine: fairly warm summers and mild winters, with the required amount of precipitation.

Today the wine region D.O.Ca. Rioja is divided into three subregions, which extend to neighboring regions and produce different types of wine: La Rioja Alta in the west is famous for delicate, elegant wines with moderate alcohol content. Rio Ha Alaves, located in the Basque Country, produces wines with a special fruity taste. In Rioja Baja, which stretches east from Logroño to Navarra, the alluvial soils of the Ebro River produce deep, dark-colored grapes with high alcohol potential.

The most important grape variety for Rioja is the fruity Tempranillo, which is considered a noble Spanish variety. It is complemented by Garnacha, which gives the wine color and body, the acid-rich Graciano variety, and the substantial and tannin-rich Mazuela variety. White varieties grow on only 10% of the area occupied by vineyards, with the Viura variety playing the main role here. The Malvasia and Garnacha Blanca varieties are used only in small quantities for kulages.

In 2007, the classic range of Rioja grapes was replenished with new varieties: in red wines they stuck to such autochthonous varieties as Maturana Tinga. In the area of ​​white wines, two international varieties have been added - Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, which, due to their aroma, are intended to play an “improving” role (at the same time, they are not allowed to produce single-varietal wines). Although Rioja is today one of Spain's most modern wine regions, viticulture here has largely retained its traditional form. Hundreds of small family businesses produce grapes, from which wine is subsequently made in large wineries and bottling plants. Most of the vineyards are planted using the method of growing single vines with low trunks. This means a lot of manual labor since the use of machines is limited. In winter, winegrowers trim the branches of the vine with scissors, leaving a certain number of them in order to concentrate the power of the plant on them. In very fertile years, winegrowers who are especially concerned about quality go around the vineyard in July and cut out part of the green bunches with pea-sized berries. This "green harvest" provides more strength to the remaining grapes, and the wine - more high quality. Harvesting begins in Rioja in September and is also mostly done by hand. If possible, unripe bunches and leaves should not be included in the harvested grapes, as this may damage the quality of the wine. The revolution in quality has led to the introduction of sampling tables in some bodegas: the harvested grapes are fed through a conveyor and manually removed from leaves and bad berries. Good berries are used to make good wine.

By the end of the 19th century, the first wineries arose in Rioja, which began aging their wines in barriques. Until then, only the technology of oxidative (oxidative) wine production in large wooden containers was known here. Because these wines were often of poor quality, French specialist Jean Pineau was brought to the region and introduced a select group of landowners in Rioja to the French winemaking system. At the end of the century, more and more French wine merchants and winemakers from Bordeaux came to Rioja in search of varieties to replace their destroyed vineyards. The first large wine-making enterprises (bodegas) with huge workshops and thousands of barriques arose. Thus began the sharp rise of wine, which today enjoys worldwide fame. The La Rioja Alta winery is still considered a bastion of traditional winemaking in Rioja. Even during its creation in 1890, 3,500 barrels from Bordeaux were purchased. Since then, in this bodega, wine has been consistently aged in barriques - small wooden barrels with a capacity of 225 liters. To make classic Rioja wine, the grapes are destemmed and crushed after harvest. The resulting pulp is fermented in containers (tanks). The skin and pulp give the wort tannins (tannins), color and taste. The duration of fermentation of the wort in the berry pulp is determined by the master winemaker, depending on the type of wine being created: the longer the wort ferments in the berry pulp, the more tannins and coloring substances will pass into it. At the same time, aging in berry pulp for too long can impart unwanted bitterness to the wine. In La Rioja Alta, the master winemaker, even with the best quality, limits the aging time of berry pulp to a maximum of 15 days. After this, the wort is drained from the barrel, the berry pulp is lightly squeezed out and the wort is poured into fermentation containers to complete the alcoholic fermentation. For the second fermentation, the wort is often pumped into steel or large wooden containers. At this stage, the malic acid contained in the grapes is converted into lactic acid. There is no talk of an exquisite aroma yet: the wine at this stage has an unpleasant odor. After the second fermentation, the winemaker separates the wine according to quality and, after several transfers, pours it into barriques. After a few months, the young wine, which still has a lot of suspended solids, must be poured again to remove sediment. In the cellars of the La Rioja Alta subregion, wines of all quality levels are still poured by hand - without a pump, by gravity from top to bottom in barrels stacked on top of each other, placed in rows. The liquid residue is then filtered and given to employees. After all, according to the ancient law, a wine cellar worker has the right to take home a liter of wine every day and another 32 liters per month. Depending on the category of wine being produced - Crianza, Reserva or Gran Reserva - red wines spend a certain amount of time in oak barrels, with the prescribed aging time often being exceeded. In a closed barrel, the wine is protected from harmful influences such as direct contact with air and from light, so that the flavor components can develop and combine. In addition, the wood imparts tannin to the wine and thus creates additional potential for aging. After aging in barrels, the wine is filtered and bottled. To complete aging, wine of any quality spends a certain amount of time in bottles in the warehouse before going on sale to stabilize and develop the structure. When aging in bottles, wine often loses its still somewhat harsh woody character, and a harmonization of multifaceted flavor components occurs.

The following varieties of Rioja wine are established depending on the aging:

• Sin Crianza - without aging in barrels;
• Con Crianza - aged for two years, one of which is in wooden barrels;
• Pecepа (Reserva) is a high-quality wine aged for one year in barrels, two years in bottles (for red wine). In total, it should be sold in the fourth year after harvest. White and rose wine is aged 6 months in barrels and 2 years in bottles.
• Gran reserva: red wine is aged for 2 years in barrels, 3 in bottles. It comes to the market in the 6th year after harvest. White and rosé are aged for 4 years, of which 6 months are in barrels.

Mostly Rioja wines are blends. The label usually indicates the year of harvest of the dominant grapes in the wine (for example, Cosecha (vintage) 1995).

The best wines of Rioja

1. 904 Gran Reserva 1994 (La Rioja Alta): subtle smoky aromas, ripe fruit flavors, a lively and timeless flavor.
2. VinaTondonia Gran Reserva Blanco 1987 (Bodegas Lopez de Heredia): delicate acid, noble wood, elegant notes of age.
3. Dominio de Conte Reserva 2004 (Bodegas Breton): fruity, elegant, with lively acidity.
4. Monte Real Gran Reserva 1999 (Bodegas Riojanas): ripe raspberry and strawberry notes, polished tannins.
5. Castillo Igay Gran Reserva 1998; (Marques de Murrieta): elegant, soft, velvety fruit flavor, refined wood.
6. Real de Asua 2001 (C.V.N.E.): dense, great depth, deep fruit aromas, long finish.
7. La Vina de Andres Romeo 2005 (Vinos de Benjamin Romeo): complex, mineral, consistent, dense.
8. Torre Muga 2005 (Bodegas Muga): Powerful R neoclassical style wine, thick tannins, lots of roasted aroma, body and body.
9. Faustino I Gran Reserva 1996 (Faustino Martinez): mature, long-lived, with great potential.
10. Calvario 2005 (Finca Allende): Elegant, juicy, mineral, long-lived.
11. Remirez de Ganuza Reserva 2003; (Fernando Remirez de Ganuza): structured, complex, gentle acidity.
12. Baron de Chirel Reserva 2004 (Marques de Riscal): powerful, highly concentrated, late ripening.
13. Contino Vina el Olivo 2005 (Vinedos del Contino): Rich, red stone fruit and date aromas, restrained woodiness.
14. Pagos Viejos Reserva 2005 (Cosecheros Alaveses): Concentrated and powerful, good ripeness.
15. Roda 1 Reserva 2004 (Roda): juicy, harmonious, abundant, ripe tannins.
16. San Vicente Reserva 2006 (Scnorio de San Vicente): Elegantly polished, with strong cherry flavors.
17. Mirto 2004 (Ramon Bilbao): aromatic, dense, polished, complex.

Spain ranks third in the world (after France and Italy) in wine production. Every year the country supplies the market with more than thirty-four million hectoliters. And in terms of area, the vineyards of Spain have no equal. More than a million hectares of land are allocated for vines. In Spain, like in all countries, there are administrative divisions. But there is also a distinction between wine regions. And the most famous of them is Rioja. The wines of this region, as well as the province of Priorat, are the only ones that deserve the honorary recognized qualification of origin. Therefore, if you see a bottle in a store with the inscription DOCa Rioja or DOQ Priorat, do not hesitate - these are the highest class drinks. But in this article we will pay attention to only one wine-growing region of Spain - Rioja. Read below about what subprovinces it is divided into and what varieties of berries are grown there.

Where is Rioja

The wines of this region are famous for good reason. The climatic characteristics of Rioja and its soil make the drink from the vine unique. The region itself is small, if not small. It is bordered by Castile and Leon to the west and south. And from the north and east, Rioja is adjacent to the coastal regions: Navarre and the Basque Country. All are wine-making in one way or another. But Rioja is famous far beyond the borders of its country. For many people, the name of this region means only one thing - wonderful wine. What makes Rioja so popular?

First of all, its climate. From the north it is sheltered from the piercing winds with mountain range Sierra Cantabria. And from the west and south it is outlined by the Sierra de la Demanda ridge. The entire valley between the mountains is occupied by vineyards. The vines grow in unique soils. They are alluvial. Both limestone and high-grade red clay are found. And numerous rivers and streams saturate the too dry air of the valleys with moisture.

Subregions

The name of the province was given by the river (Spanish “rio”) Okha. This is a tributary of the Ebro. Other rivers divide the region into seven valleys. Each of them has its own microclimate and unique soils. But the province is divided into three sub-regions. The first zone is Rioja Alta, which means “Upper”. This is the largest subregion. Vineyards occupy twenty-five thousand hectares here. In Upper Rioja you can feel the breeze of the Atlantic. Summers are hot and dry, but frosts occur in early spring. Rioja Alavesa is located on the northern bank of the Ebro River. This is the smallest subregion (with a vineyard area of ​​twelve thousand hectares). The climate here is closer to the Mediterranean. And finally, the subregion of Baja - Baja Rioja. The wines produced here are characterized by high alcohol content, are very extractive and have a delicate fruity aroma. The soils here are alluvial, and the climate is very warm, without sudden temperature changes and frosts. The area of ​​the vineyards is more than twenty thousand hectares.

Story

Archaeological excavations have shown that in a province like Rioja, wine was produced even before the arrival of the ancient Romans. Although it is believed that the Iberians did not cultivate the vine. The ancient Romans exported wine from Rioja to the capital. Moreover, they preferred white varieties. For some reason, Moorish rule did not harm winemaking in any way. In the Middle Ages, monks from numerous monasteries began to refine and select vines. However, outside of Rioja they were almost unknown. As they say, misfortune helped.

In the sixties of the nineteenth century French regions suffered a terrible misfortune - phylloxera, which destroyed all the vines in such famous provinces as Bordeaux, Champagne and Burgundy. Winemakers, in order to fulfill their obligations to customers, began to look for other sources of raw materials. And they found them in Rioja. Since then, red varieties have been preferred in the Spanish region. It was they who at one time replaced Bordeaux wines.

Vine varieties

Tempranillo grows in the cool sub-Atlantic climate where Rioja Alta is located. This red grape variety is grown throughout Spain. However, only in Rioja does it acquire characteristic qualities that cannot be confused with anything else. Tempranillo gives the wine a strong berry flavor and a rich ruby ​​color. It has low acidity, but, on the other hand, low tannins. Therefore, all local blends are based on Rioja Alta and Alavesa, which are also characterized by such red grape varieties as Graciano and Mazuelo. The white grape variety Viura is also grown here. In a province like Rioja Baja, Garnacha Tinta is the universally recognized king. This red grape variety is nothing more than the French “grenage noir”. However, in the warm conditions of Lower Rioja, the berries acquire their new characteristic sound. Garnacha Tinta, like Tempranillo, is the basis for blends.

Technology

Spanish Rioja wine is a product not only of one or another variety of vine or place where the berries grow. Terroir is of course important, as is skillful blending. But production technology is no less important. In the Rioja region, wine is first aged in barrels and then long term- in bottles. At the first stage of production, preference is given to local white and American oak. This wood gives the drink a light vanilla aroma. Oak barrels from France are now becoming no less popular. Aging in bottles allows the wine to more fully reveal its potential - bouquet and taste.

Standard Rioja matures in barrels for less than a year. If the word Crianza is indicated on the label, this means that the wort played in an oak container for more than a year and “calmed down” for the same amount of time in the bottle. Reserva can boast of even greater endurance. This wine was in a barrel for two years, and half of that time was in glass containers. But “Gran Reserva” is especially appreciated. This wine is created in unique years, which are characterized by high yields and a special taste of berries. Then the producers allow it to mature in barrels for more than two years, and another three in bottles. For white wines there is a similar gradation. Only their aging period is almost half that of red ones.

Reading the label

The names of wines from the Rioja region for Russia mean little to the average consumer. First of all, we must look for the treasured abbreviation DOC on the label. It stands for Denominacion de Origen Calificada - "control of recognized origin." This means that all the grapes for the drink were grown in Rioja. Next we get information about shutter speed. You should know that Joven (young wine from last year's harvest, bottled without spending time in barrels) is not produced in Rioja. The label should read "Criansa", "Reserva" or "Gran Reserva". The color of the wine is visible even without inscriptions.

But still, the label should say “Tinto” (red), “Blanco” (white) or “Rosado” (pink). The following is information about the acidity of the wine. Dry is designated by the word “Seco”, and sweet by “Dulce”. Halftones are defined by the prefix semi. Cosecha refers to the year of the harvest. The word "Bodega" means wine house. The status of the wine will only increase if the label says “Embolellado en origen”. This inscription indicates that the drink was bottled at the place of its production.

Classification by terroir

Most in Spain is called Vino de Mesa. The region of origin is not indicated here. A higher rank is “Vino de la Tierra”, in other words, from a certain part of the country. The abbreviation DO takes the quality of the drink up another notch. She points out that the berries for the drink were collected in the same wine-growing region. This could be La Mancha, Navarre, Andalusia. But only wines from the Rioja region can bear the abbreviation DOCa. And finally, "Pago". Pago is Spanish for “vineyard,” and that says it all. The drink was given life by vines that grow on special slopes and farms. The Pago classification wine corresponds to the French high Grand Cru status in Burgundy. Based on this, many producers insert the word pago into the name of the wine, hoping to deceive inexperienced buyers. The highest Spanish category labels must indicate Vinos de Pagos Calificados.

Red wines

Once upon a time, the region was famous for its white wines. But the invasion of phylloxera in the French province of Bordeaux broke the stable traditions. In order to have a market, local farms switched to dark varieties. The calling card of the Rioja region is dry red wine. And the basis for the drink is the king of the local pagos - “tempranillo”. It should be said that the local wines are rarely single-varietal. Much more often, the blend gives the drink its elegant and characteristic taste. But in it “tempranillo” always plays the first violin. A classic example of such a blend is Antano Rioja wine (dry or fortified). It contains at least eighty-five percent Tempranillo. It is favorably set off by “graciano” (ten) and “mazuelo” (five percent). Also very good are “garnacha” (the same “grenage”, but with a Spanish temperament) and “maturana”.

White wines

In Rioja they don’t forget about traditions. Three varieties of vines with white berries continue to be cultivated here. The most popular and oldest is “viura”. In other countries this variety is known as "macabeo". But it comes from Rioja and is said to have been cultivated here even before the arrival of the Romans. “Viura” produces lively and light wines with great acidity. In order to increase its aging potential, the variety is blended with malvasia. And “garnacha blanca”, woven into the bouquet of “viura”, gives rise to the best white wines of Rioja. By the way, they can be single-varietal. An example of this is the Marques de Murrieta wine. It consists one hundred percent of “viura”. The wine has a bright yellow color, an enveloping taste, in which shades of honey and almonds are read, and a fresh aroma of fruit. For blends, Rioja uses Garnacha Blanca, Turrentes, and even foreign Chardonnay and Sauvignon varieties, albeit in small proportions.

Rose wines

They have a beautiful rich color. According to DOCa rules, at least twenty-five percent of these Rosados ​​must be Rioja red wine. If the latter is Tempranillo, the drink turns out to be characteristic and full-bodied. Garnacha Tinta gives rose wine a rich bouquet and beautiful color. Such drinks are aged in barrels for about six months and go on sale three years after harvest. A typical example of rosé wines from Rioja is Finca Nueva. The drink has a raspberry hue. The bouquet contains aromas of cherry, strawberry and red berries. balanced, with pleasant acidity, delicate taste. An excellent addition to crab salads, pizza, and duck meat.

Wine "Rioja": reviews

Gourmets are captivated by the perfectly balanced taste and rich aroma of drinks from this smallest province of Spain. The only thing that overshadows the holiday is the price. More precisely, even a markup. After all, for example, a very worthy wine from Rioja “Banda Azul” (a blend of Tempranillo, Garnacha and Mazulo) costs about four and a half euros in Spain. And in Russia, a bottle of the same wine costs about six hundred rubles. If you want to try what pure Tempranillo “sounds” like, you should buy “El Coto” with a deer on the label. Another classic blend wine is Marques de Coqueres. This is a "kriansa" from the 2008 vintage. The wine is perfect with Mediterranean dishes - jamon, paella. In Spain, a bottle costs eight euros, and in Russia - a thousand rubles.

Difference from French and Italian wines

The climatic and soil characteristics of the region make it possible to grow ripe and juicy berries with a characteristic taste. Spanish Rioja wine has a rich color. It is full-bodied, with an indescribable aftertaste. One of the most elite wines is Rioja Alta 890 Gran Reserva. In Spain it costs about seventy-five euros. Only gourmets drink it, and on major holidays.

Our story began in 1980: until that time, there was no official division of Rioja into “crianza”, “reserva” and “gran reserva” wines. Before 1980, labels simply stated the year of harvest. At the same time, the bottle could contain anything - from oak “Gran Reserva” style to carbonic maceration in the Beaujolais Nouveau style.

20 years have passed - a new wave of modern Rioja has begun. These wines, unlike traditional ones, did not provide any guarantee of age.

Another 15 years forward - and now, the focus is on grape varieties and terroir.

Over the course of a couple of decades, the simple foundations of Rioja winemaking have been eroded. On the other hand, after 35 years the picture is beginning to emerge again.

Traditional versus modern Rioja

In the minds of most, traditional old-school Rioja is a wine that is noticeably aged in American oak, predominantly from the Tempranillo variety, not very dense, with a moderate alcohol content and a characteristic bouquet of age - very harmonious and elegant.

The bodegas of Rioja still stock many bottles of this wine, and Spanish restaurants with their own cellars still sell them at quite reasonable prices.

These wines are not frequent guests at international auctions. But interest in them is constantly growing. What will the Rioja produced today look like in 50 years?

These wines have changed. Even the most classicists today pay more attention to both the vine and the winery. Many traditional wines already bear the imprint of modernity.

The truly distinctive feature of the new wave of Riojas is the intense color and super concentrated character of these wines, which have given them a growing following among lovers of rich, fruity reds.

This wine is the result of a focus on the vines, especially in terms of clonal research (like that carried out by Roda, for example), reduction in yields, fermentation in individual small batches and aging in French oak.

Often these were wines made from 100% Tempranillo. They were released to the market after not so long aging in barrels/bottles. Apart from purely stylistic effects, this is undoubtedly more interesting to the winemaker from a commercial point of view, since it speeds up the return on investment.

Purity from complexity

Thank God, the days of inky, sugary and oak-laden Riojas seem to be over. Today the region offers a dazzling array of options. Although there is still room for exploration, as in any wine region of this level.

Take oak, for example: Gran Reserva wine producers use a mixture of French and American oak, including those who until recently “sat” exclusively on new French barrels. The indefatigable use of oak is gradually giving way to the production of more coherent and more complex wines.

As for grape varieties, many modern winemakers make pure Tempranillo. Personally, I prefer blends. There is no benefit in itself to using one variety other than label clarity.

Mazuelo (Carignan), Garnacha and Graciano have long played a small but important role. Like Cabernet Sauvignon, which appeared in Rioja with the Marques de Riscal in 1862. In recent years, there has been a trend of using these “younger” varieties in solo performance. Graciano from Contino can easily be called the most successful case, especially considering the difficulties of working with this variety.

Garnacha from the warmer parts of Rioja has long been used in blends by winemakers from its colder part, Rioja Alta. Now Garnacha has a powerful supporter in the person of Alvaro Palacios, the creator of the wine "L"Ermita"), who is working to restore the reputation of this variety in the eastern part of Rioja - in Alfaro (Rioja Baja). You might want to look for his Valmira wine—garnacha from old vines—“very Burgundian, very aromatic.”

Among the newcomers, such varieties as Maturana Tinta (red Maturana) appear in the vineyards, giving good acidity to red wine; and Tempranillo Blanco (white Tempranillo) - a genetic mutation of Tempranillo, promising full-bodied white wines that do not lack freshness.

But they still need time to form and begin to produce some noticeable harvest.

In search of terroir

In principle, there is nothing new in the recent trend. This is the rise of a new generation of producers who want a better expression of the character of their vineyards. Goblet pruning, old vines, less new oak - these are the elements characteristic of their style.

The difficulty is that Rioja is a very geologically heterogeneous region, located between different mountain ranges, on both sides of the Ebro River. It contains limestone-clay soils, clayey-iron soils, and alluvium.

To put it simply, then Rioja Alta(Rioja Alta), located higher than the rest in the west, often produces calmer wines, but with bright fruit. North of the Ebro River - Rioja Alavesa(Rioja Alavesa)– the mainstay of Tempranillo: fuller-bodied, fresher wines.

Rioja Baja(Rioja Baja)– in the east – warmer, lower, drier (irrigation is allowed here), with a more pronounced Mediterranean climate: here the richest wines with the highest alcohol content.

Some major producers choose to blend wines from different vineyards, while others try to express their individual terroirs (among them Benjamin Romeo, David Sampedro Gil, Olivier Riviere, Abel Mendoza and Telmo Rodriguez).

If we remove the two extremes – i.e. the cheapest mass brands and the absurdly pretentious bottles with smothered Tempranillo oak - then in the middle there will be a wide and varied spectrum that is worth exploring. Choose something for yourself, pour a glass and think about the fact that any tradition, as they say, began as an innovation. For Rioja this is truer than ever.

Just 30 years ago, with the exception of a few specialty shops, no one sold Rioja wine outside the Spanish-speaking world. But we are not talking about some upstart, some sort of parvenu among wineries areas, - origin The vineyards of Rioja can be traced back almost to the Romans, and these vineyards undoubtedly flourished even before the vines began to be pruned in Bordeaux.

However, it was Bordeaux that set Rioja on the right path. When the phylloxera aphid, which struck Bordeaux like a punishing flood, destroyed the vineyards that were the livelihood of the province, Rioja was not affected by this scourge. And the Bordeaux people rushed south, bringing with them their know-how, their money and their dreams, creating a kind of Bordeaux south of the Pyrenees.

The boom didn't last long. Phylloxera was defeated, and the French returned to their homeland, but abandoned their methodology. And while Bordeaux was turning into one of the centers of modern winemaking, constantly developing and improving its wines, Rioja fell into a sleepy stupor, effortlessly copying the good old original Bordeaux method.

Throughout Spain and South America, Rioja's unique, pleasant, buttery type of wine has established itself as the epitome of the best wine Spain can produce. It was only in the early 1970s that Rioja finally entered the wider international arena. The result was the inevitable expansion of viticultural areas into plains more suitable for growing wheat than wine, and a diminishing influence on the oaky flavor that made Rioja wines so beloved in the first place.

New, more level vineyards - if their grapes are to be used to produce wine at all (frankly, I would prefer that this land be returned to wheat) - should be given over to the production of young, juicy wines, without subjecting them to any there was no endurance. Then the classic areas could be reserved exclusively for the production of high-quality wines. However, Rioja's grape yields are currently too high and the quality of the wine too uneven. It's a shame, but Rioja doesn't seem to know where it's going.

Rioja is red, white and rose wines. There are even sparkling ones here, albeit in extremely small quantities. However, Rioja's fame rests squarely on its red wines, in large part because, compared to whites, red wines are generally better at aging in barrels.

There are three main sub-regions in Rioja, the most important of which is Rioja Alta. Although most major bodegas wineries blend wines from all three regions, Alta takes a more rigorous approach when sourcing red wines. Rosé wines based on those produced in Alta are the best in Rioja.

Rioja Alavesa produces the finest, most aromatic red wines. To the east of Logrono is the Rioja Baja, a vast, hot and fairly flat region, and its wines are somewhat sluggish. They are used in blends to add weight to the lighter wines of the other two sub-regions, but on their own they tend to be somewhat heavy.

The varieties of red grapes are Tempranillo, Garnacha Tinta, Graciano and Mazuelo, of which the best is Tempranillo. It does not give intense coloring, but imparts the strawberry aroma that characterizes the best wines. Garnacha is a large, dense variety of the Grenache grape that is distributed throughout Southern France. It can be tangy and slightly hollow and produces great results when mixed with Tempranillo. Garnacha also makes good rosé wines. Graciano is on the verge of extinction, but some of the best winemakers, appreciating this grape variety for its quality, strive to preserve it. "Mazuelo" is a less interesting variety. There are still a small number of Cabernet Sauvignon plots remaining from the time when Bordeaux winemakers came to Rioja.

The main white grape variety is Viura. Traditionally, it is also added to red blended wines. White wines produced in a modern, cold, slow process reveal a wonderful, tart grapefruit flavor. However, this variety also takes oak well and can produce a delightful full, soft bouquet. In Rioja, other varieties of white grapes are used, these are “Malvasia Riojana” and “Garnacha blanca”.

The best producers: Artadi, Marques de Caceres, Campillo, Campo Viejo, Contino, CVNE, Faustino Martinez, Marques de Grinon, Lopez de Heredia, Martinez Bujanda, Montecillo, Marques de Murrieta, Navajas, Olarra, Palacio, Remelluri, La Rioja Aha, Marques de Hi soil, Bodegas Riojanas, Sierra Cantabria, Vina Ijalba.

CLASSIFICATION

Sin Crianza wines are sold young and are rarely aged in oak barrels. These bouncy Beaujolais-like wines can be very enjoyable.

Crianza wines must be aged for at least two years and at least a year in barrel. They can be pleasant, light wines, but sometimes the taste ranges from the overtly fruity feel of the Sin Crianza wines to the strawberry oakiness of the Reserva wines.

Reserva wines must be aged at least three years and have been in barrel for at least a year. For many Reserva wines, this period is longer, and the wine goes on sale after five years of aging. These are the most wonderful wines of all Rioja wines.

Gran Reservas wines must be aged at least five years, with a minimum of two years in barrel. Barrel storage often lasts longer than two years, which reduces the alcohol content of the wine and makes Gran Reservas wines great.

ORGANIZATION

In Rioja, large winemaking companies - "bodegas" - rule the roost, which is associated mainly with the costs of producing traditional Rioja. The main costs are due to the truly enormous investments required by the expensive oak barrels lined up in countless rows - it is in them that the wine must be aged for several years before it can be released for sale.

READING THE LABEL

In Rioja, what class a wine belongs to (for example, Crianza) is often indicated on the back label. Since blending plays a large role in this area of ​​winemaking, vineyard names are rarely found on the label.

ABOUT TASTE

The youngest red wines have a rich, fruity aroma reminiscent of Beaujolais, but those aside, Rioja reds should have an oaky tone. Vanilla, strawberry and coconut are bouquets that I haven’t seen together very often. Among white wines, the golden, oily trend is in decline. The new style is a fresh and energetic wine, full of tart, raw fruit flavors that will take your breath away. Rose wines are dry, with a rich, soft fruit bouquet, and they are unfairly underrated.

GOOD YEARS

The oldest wines can seem like a bargain. But only the best Gran Reserva preserves well for more than ten years. The years 1995 and 1994 were excellent - the best harvests for many years. For red wines, the years 1991, 1990, 1989 and 1985 were good. Whites and rosés are best drunk young, with the exception of a few of the best whites, but these are rare and go on sale when they are ready to drink.

HOW TO DRINK THEM?

Young whites are bouncy and refreshing, ideal with seafood, while young reds are good with savory sausages, smoked ham and Spanish-style bean casserole. Save aged reds for game, roasts and cheeses.

Rioja – Spanish wine region with the highest quality category - DOC status (Denominacion de Origen Calificada), that is, local wines are protected by origin and meet the stated criteria of quality and taste. Rioja wines are made from grapes grown in... autonomous communities La Rioja and Navarre, as well as in the province of Alava in the Basque Country. The region is divided into three subzones: Rioja Alta, Rioja Baja and Rioja Alavesa. The wine may be the result of a blend of harvests from all three zones, but experts note a gradual trend towards production from berries of one sub-region. Rioja wines taste similar to Cabernet Sauvignon, but have a fruitier profile with pronounced cherry notes.

Story

Judging by the results of archaeological excavations, winemaking on these lands was already developed during the times of the Phoenicians and Celtiberians (XV-III centuries BC), but the first written evidence dates back only to 873. Traditionally in medieval Europe, almost all wines in Rioja were made in monasteries.

Local wines received their first official recognition in 1102 - there is evidence that commercial production and export to other regions of the country flourished already at the beginning of the 13th century. By the 15th century, Rioja Alta was famous for its drinks: local winemakers developed a special symbol to mark particularly high-quality varieties, and the mayor of Logroño even banned carriages from passing through the streets with wine cellars, so that the vibrations would not affect the taste.

In 1650, the first document appeared to control the quality of Rioja wines, and at the end of the 18th century, the Royal Economic Community of Rioja Winemakers was founded, designed to develop the production and commercial sale of local wine. In 1892, a special institution was created to control the quality of wines (Viticulture and Enology Station of Haro); in 1953, the Spanish government determined production zones and finally assigned the name “Rioja” to the wines of this particular region. In 1991, Rioja received DOC status.

Geography and climate

The region is located in the south of the Cantabrian Mountains and has a temperate continental climate. The mountains protect the vineyards from the winds.

Subregions:

• Alta. The zone is located in the western part of the region at a slight elevation, the annual rainfall reaches 510 mm. Grape varieties with a rich fruity taste grow here, producing light and aromatic wines.
• Alavesa. The climate is almost indistinguishable from Alta, but this subregion is famous for its fuller-bodied and acidic wines. Due to the poor soil, the vines here are planted at a considerable distance from each other so that the plant receives enough light and food.
• Bach. The only subregion with a Mediterranean climate, Rioja is the warmest and driest zone. Droughts occur in summer, and temperatures in the hottest months reach +35 °C. Unlike almost colorless wines from other subregions, Baja wines stand out with their rich color and increased strength - up to 18%. On the other hand, drinks cannot boast of a strong aroma or high acidity, so Baja wines are rarely drunk in their pure form; more often they are used in blends with products from other subregions.

Grape varieties and types of wines

Rioja produces red (tinto), white (blanco) and rose (rosado) wines. The former account for 85% of total output. The soil is mainly clayey with a high content of chalk and iron, the harvest is harvested in September-October.

Rioja red wines are made from Tempranillo (60% of the blend), Grenache (20%), Graciano and Carignan (minor shares). Thanks to Tempranillo, the wines are aromatic and have good aging potential, Grenache is responsible for the body and content, and the last two varieties add nuances of taste and aroma. Some producers use a little Cabernet Sauvignon. Finished red wines can age for 15-20 years or even longer, although they are usually brought to market after 4-8 years of aging. These drinks are distinguished by tannin and pronounced vanilla notes in the bouquet - the result of aging in oak barrels, a tradition that local winemakers adopted from their colleagues from Bordeaux.

White Rioja wines are made from Macabeo, Malvasia, and Grenache Blanc varieties. The first variety makes the drink “fruity”, with pronounced acidity. The second adds flavor, and the third adds body. White wines are aged for 2 to 5 years (although sometimes they are sold without aging), during which time the drinks acquire nuances of caramel, coffee, roasted nuts, but their main characteristics are increased “fruity” and lightness.

Rosé wines are produced primarily from the Grenache grape.

Classification of Rioja wines by aging

All local wines are divided into four categories:

• Rioja. The youngest wine, aged in barrel for less than a year.
• Crianza. Aging for at least 2 years, at least a year in an oak barrel.
• Rioja Reserva. Aging for 3 years, at least a year in oak barrel.
• Rioja Gran Reserva. Aged for at least three years in a barrel and another two years in a bottle.

Famous brands

Artadi, Vina El Pison; Finca Allende, Aurus; Contador; Lopez de Heredia; Senorio de San Vicente, San Vicente, etc.

How to drink Rioja wines

Depending on the type of wine, Riojas are drunk from red or white wine glasses. Reds go well with Spanish food, such as jamon, and any spicy beef or pork dish will also work well. You can serve hard sheep cheese.

It is more difficult to choose a gastronomic pairing for the white variation, since the taste of the wine may vary depending on the manufacturer. Young wines are paired with seafood, grilled fish and salads. You can serve the aged ones with nuts, ham, vegetable stew, paella, and eggs. Finally, the oldest wines will fully open up with fish steaks, fried halibut, chicken, veal, white chicken meat, soft sheep's cheese.