Sicily. Cefalu, Erice, Enna and a piece of Calabria
70 kilometers from the capital of Sicily, Palermo, lies the picturesque town of Cefalu. The town is quite small - 15 thousand inhabitants, and a dozen and a half streets - but with a very rich history. The surrounding rocks remember the ancient Greeks, Romans, Arabs, and Normans. Little remains of the first three civilizations - a piece of a wall, a laundry, and a road along the cliffs. But the king of the latter, Roger II, built the main local attraction - the city cathedral - almost 900 years ago.
To be honest, at first I planned to spend my holidays in Sardinia. But the prices there seemed to me, to put it mildly, inhumane. Then I turned my attention to Sicily. The requirements for a place to stay were quite modest: not very far from the airport, but not near the planes taking off and arriving. Sandy beach but with beautiful rocky scenery within walking distance. Not a rural wilderness, but not crowds of tourists around either. In search of a suitable option, I looked through at least a thousand photos on Tripadvisor. Based on the photo, I liked the beaches of San Vito Lo Capo the most, but trains don’t go there, and I didn’t drive then.
Cefalu was second on the list of preferences. But after this photo caught my eye, all doubts disappeared. Why not Venice?
The town turned out to be very pleasant in all respects: two hours from Punta Raisi airport by train, travel from 11 euros one way. A ticket from Rome to Palermo cost me only 37 euros, so the trip turned out to be very budget-friendly.
The rest was also almost perfect - beautiful rocky landscapes...
Narrow medieval streets...
The beach, however, let us down. It’s not very visible in the photo, but firstly, the city beach is quite cramped. At the end of June there were so many tourists that at times I remembered my native Sochi.
Secondly, the Sicilians are quite simple people. I smoked and immediately buried the bull in the sand. Nearby, his son is poking around in the sand, once - once - the bull dug it out, sits contentedly, twirls it in his hands. Maybe, of course, they weren’t Sicilians at all, but just visiting tourists - I won’t lie. But in other countries, I somehow did not notice that bulls, bottles and other household garbage were lying on the beach.
The sea is also not crystal clear. In general, if you are looking for a beach a la Bounty, this is definitely not the place for you.
But on any Bounty you will not come across houses as ancient as Sicily itself, with their walls going straight into the sea. Sorry, I can't resist.
In Cefalu I stayed in a wonderful place - B&B Dolce Vita. One of the cheapest options that Booking offered at that time (80 euros per night), but this price included:
Two full rooms + kitchen, equipped with everything necessary - from a washing machine to a set of dishes;
Private balcony overlooking the city + common terrace, almost hanging over the sea;
The most magnificent view from the window.
Along the embankment and in the old part of the city there are plenty of cafes and atmospheric Italian restaurants. The prices are not particularly low - after all, it is a resort town. Unfortunately, the exact prices were not preserved in my memory, but, in my opinion, a hot dish cost around 10-15 euros.
Cafes are located mainly on the cathedral square and near the embankment. As elsewhere, the farther from the embankment and from the cathedral, the cheaper. True, in Cefalu the concept of “further” is very relative. There are only two streets leaving the coastline in the old town. There are seven more parallel to the shore. Moreover, almost all the streets are so narrow that when a car passes along them, pedestrians have to literally squeeze into the walls of houses.
If you go around the cathedral on its left side, get out through the narrow streets to the sea and walk along the coast along the picturesque ruins of the Roman road, then after about a kilometer you will come to the port. On the other side of the bay the highway to Messina already begins.
You can also walk in the opposite direction from the cathedral - first there will be a beach, then a promenade, which offers an excellent view of the old city and the cathedral.
Behind the promenade and to the left of it begins the “new city” with quite modern resort houses. Turning left 200 meters after the Riva del Sol hotel, you can walk to the only large supermarket in the town (according to the locals), Iper-Sidis. For some reason it is not marked on the Google map, although it is visible in panoramas. The landmark is the post office, after it a little straight ahead and to the right. Thanks to this supermarket and the presence of a full kitchen in the room, we saved a lot on food, despite the fact that we ate fresh seafood, pasta with olive oil, prosciutto, mozzarella, strawberries and watermelon.
If you turn left at the very beginning of the promenade, you will get to the railway station, from which trains leave for Palermo.
For those who don’t find it enough to wander through medieval streets, breathe in the sea breeze and bask on the hot sand, Cefalu will probably be a bit boring.
There are only two major attractions near which you can meet crowds of tourists with cameras - the already mentioned cathedral, in the cool halls of which you can take a break from the heat, sit in silence, enjoying the Byzantine mosaics and think about the eternal...
And a medieval Arab laundry, which is still functioning properly. True, 1000 years ago people were more resilient than today, and they did not heat water for washing. So you will have to wash your clothes in ice water. This same water then flows into the sea, so if you like to swim in colder water, position yourself near the city walls (as in the photo above) - the sea there is so cold that your legs are cramping.
Those who are not afraid of physical activity can climb to the top of the cliff overlooking the city. In addition to an excellent view of Cefalu, as a bonus for conquerors of the peak, there are the ruins of the ancient Temple of Diana, built from huge stones without the use of cement or any other mortars.
Cefalu has its own small museum and residences of the ancient rulers of these places. But all this can be seen in a maximum of a day or two. In general, knowledgeable people advise not to skimp, rent a car, and drive around Sicily in a circle. If I had driven a car at that time, I would definitely have done so. And so, I had to sit in Cefalu almost without leaving for a week, admiring the sunsets.
However, I liked it.
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How to get to Cefalu
By car
You can travel from Palermo to Cefalu by car. The car will cover a distance of 68 kilometers in an hour. You need to drive east along the coast along the A19.
By plane
Of course, there are no direct flights to Cefalu from Russia. You'll have to fly to Palermo or Catania. It is better to use the first option, because from Palermo to Cefalu it is only 60 kilometers. The best option from Alitalia involves one transfer in Rome. The journey to Palermo will take 6 hours and cost 330 € one way.
By train
You can also get there from Palermo by train. To do this, you need to take the train to Cefalu from Palermo Centrale station, which runs every hour. Travel time is about an hour. For a ticket in second class you will have to pay 6-8 €, and for first class more than 10 €. You can get there by train from Naples, but the journey will be very long - more than 8 hours, and such a trip will cost about 30 €.
Hotels in Cefalu
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The resort has several dozen hotels of different stars, comfortable apartments with sea views and luxurious villas. There are no five-star hotels here. The 4-star Astro Suite Hotel offers rooms with sea views, a swimming pool and a private beach. Luxury prices start from 90 €. The Agrodolce B&B hotel, located in the city center, is especially popular among tourists. The price for a single room is 95 € per night.
Shopping in Cefalu
Cefalu is a popular resort among tourists, so the narrow streets of the city are simply teeming with souvenir shops. A variety of magnets, ceramics, paintings, figurines, mugs and other memorabilia are sold here. You can also buy clothes, bags, shoes, jewelry and much more in the city. Most of the shops are located on the main street Corso Ruggero. Saturday street fairs are especially popular.
For more productive shopping, you should go to Palermo, which is only 70 kilometers from the city. There you can visit the Forum Shopping Centre, numerous Italian boutiques and the Vukiria market, which has been operating since the 11th century.
Beaches in Cefalu
The city attracts tourists primarily for its beach holidays. Fine sand and azure sea make Cefalu a wonderful resort. Urban is especially popular. It is located near the main street of Cefalu, so it is always crowded. The shallow depth and gentle entrance to the sea are ideal for vacationers with children. Kaldure Beach, located a twenty-minute walk from the center, will delight tourists with small pebbles and crystal clear water.
For a more relaxing holiday, you should go to Salinelle beach, located seven kilometers from the city. This is a long sandy beach where there are usually few holidaymakers. The sea suddenly becomes deep, so parents with children need to be careful. Surfers will love the beach at Cape Playa, located a 20-minute drive from the city.
Where the day ends with a romantic sunset. Sun, sea, aroma of blooming citruses and stunning architectural heritage - all this is the resort of Cefalu.
We have compiled for you a list of the 10 most important attractions of Cefalu, you can explore them on your own or walk around the city with a Russian-speaking guide who will tell you the most interesting moments of history, you can find out more.
Cathedral(Duomo di Cefalu)
Cefalu Cathedral– the main and one of the most remarkable medieval buildings in Sicily. According to legend, when Norman Roger II was caught in a severe storm at sea, he vowed to build a church if he were saved. During the celebration of the Transfiguration of the Lord in 1131, Norman landed on the shore. The construction of the cathedral lasted for years and even after the lighting of the temple, in the mid-13th century, it was still ongoing. Therefore, the new parts of the building have significantly departed from the monumental proportions of the original plans, and at first glance it seems that this is a castle from the era of knightly tournaments.
The church reflects the various influences of Sicilian history: Norman, Greek, Latin and Arabic styles. The nave has two rows of granite columns with Byzantine capitals that support a triumphal arch. The right nave is decorated with 12th-century oriental paintings, and on the left is a 16th-century statue of the Madonna created by the Italian Renaissance sculptor Antonello Gaggini. The main feature of the cathedral that attracts the eye is mosaic. Despite frequent restoration work since the 15th century, Cefalu's mosaics are among the best preserved in Sicily.
Address: Piazza del Duomo, Cefalu.
Opening hours: daily from 8.30 to 18.00.
City Beach
Cefalu beach stretches for one and a half kilometers along the Giuseppe Giardina promenade and goes down to the old town. This is a favorite spot for vacationers and locals for afternoon walks along the beach. This is a real haven for those who like to soak up the Sicilian sun on clean sand and feel the tenderness of clear sea water. Some of it is a free area, but there are also paid areas with sun loungers, umbrellas and beach bars.
Address: Sicily, Cefalu, Giuseppe Giardina embankment.
Mandraliska Museum(Museo Mandralisca)
Next to Piazza del Duomo is the Baron Mandralisca Museum. It contains a wide range of collections covering archaeology, history and painting. Particularly attractive are Greek and Arab painted vases and antique items discovered during excavations. The museum houses a library containing more than six thousand rare book editions. The highlight of the museum's art gallery is the famous "Portrait of an Unknown Man", painted by the great Sicilian artist Antonello da Messina in 1465.
Address: Via Mandralisca, 13, Cefalu.
Opening hours: daily from 9.00 to 19.00.
Temple of Diana
On the cliff above Cefalu rise the megalithic remains of the Temple of Diana, which date back to the 9th century BC. The sanctuary was built for the worship of pagan gods and is one of the earliest places of worship in Europe. In the 12th century, the temple was used as a chapel, as evidenced by the remains of arched windows with an apse in the architectural style of that time. The temple is surrounded by a forest of stone pine trees. A place worthy of the goddess of forests and hunters.
Address: rise Saraceni, La Rocca, Cefalu.
La Rocca Rock
The northern end of Cefalu's main street, Corso Ruggiero, is the starting point for climbing La Roca. The 269-meter-tall rock monument is composed almost entirely of fossils, and much of it is covered in pine trees. The top of the rock is surrounded by medieval walls. From there you can enjoy a unique panorama of the medieval city. In clear weather, the Aeolian Islands are clearly visible from the cliff. For tired travelers, rest areas are provided at the sites, where you can sit at a table, under a canopy, sheltered from the sun.
Address: La Rocca rock, Cefalu.
Lavatoio is located in the heart of the old town. Finding yourself inside the room, your imagination involuntarily sends you into the past, where the song of a Sicilian washerwoman is echoed. Women gathered here to wash their clothes and linens and perhaps even swim in a series of large pools arranged in an unusual cascading sequence. A staircase of lava stones leads down to the area under the wide arches, where pools are filled with water from 22 spouts. At the foot of the stairs is engraved a verse written in 1655 by Vincenzo Oria, which glorifies the healing waters of the spring. According to legend, the source appeared from the endless tears of a beautiful nymph deceived by her lover.
Address: Via Vittorio Emanuele, Cefalu.
Church of Santo Stefano (del Purgatorio)
The Church of San Stefano, also known as del Purgatorio (Purgatory), founded in 1466, has one of the most beautiful facades in Cefalu. Exquisitely carved in Baroque style, the portal leads to a small square decorated with greenery and flowers. The interior of the church consists of three different passages. San Stefano contains a crypt containing the bodies of some members of the Brotherhood of Souls. Above the altar is a painting from 1813, Christ Giving the Eucharist.
Address: Piazza Giovanni Battista Spinola, Cefalu.
Church of Santa Maria della Catena(Santa Maria della Catena)
In Piazza Garibaldi stands the Church of Santa Maria Della Catena, built in 1780 by the will of the Legambi family. The 18th century facade is made of yellow tuff blocks. The large arch is supported by two pairs of columns. The arch is surrounded by three niches in which statues are placed. In the center of the facade, in a niche above the arch, there is a statue of the Madonna. The interior is quite simple, with a single nave, an altar installed in 1902, and a statue of Santa Maria della Catena.
Address: Piazza Garibaldi, Cefalu.
The Temple of Gibilmanna, dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary, is a famous place of worship in Cefalu. The sanctuary is located at an altitude of about 800 meters above sea level, on the western slopes of Sant'Angelo. The temple was built in the 17th century on the site of a chapel, from which the 13th century fresco of the Madonna and Child and a marble statue of Our Lady were inherited- Queens of Paradise.
Address: Madonie National Park, Via del Giubileo Magno, Cefalu.
The oldest historical building of Cefalu– Osterio Magno Palace. This imposing building with double and triple arched windows was the 14th century residence of King Norman Roger II . Its name means "fortified construction". The two parts of the building date from different eras of construction. The building has been restored several times, but, fortunately, the ornamentation of the arched windows has been preserved in its original form.
Address: Corso Ruggero, Cefalu.
Have a nice trip!
Cefalu is a small resort town located on the coast of the island of Sicily, 70 km from Palermo. Despite its modest territory and population of 14 thousand people, the Sicilian pearl - that’s what Cefalu is called - attracts hundreds of thousands of tourists from all over the world every season. It's really great to relax here!
There are dozens of restaurants in Cefalu. Moreover, they offer not only traditional Mediterranean cuisine, but also, for example, Japanese sushi.
Comfortable hotels are located next to the azure Mediterranean, local restaurants serve amazing dishes, and there are more than enough attractions and entertainment here! But first things first.
How to get there
You can come to Cefalu by train, say, from the capital Palermo. To do this, from the airport you need to arrive at the Palermo Centrale railway station and take the train to Cefalu station. Travel time is about an hour.
A ticket in a second class carriage will cost between 4-6 EUR, a ticket in first class is more expensive - 18-26 EUR.
Trains from Palermo station to Cefalu run every hour. You can fly to Palermo from Moscow without transfers, perhaps only by charter plane. If you organize the trip yourself, then most likely you will have to choose flights with transfers. The route to Palermo is now served by a number of airlines.
Search for flights to Palermo (closest airport to Cefalu)
Cefalu can also be reached by train from Naples. The landing point is Napoli Centrale railway station. An economy class ticket on the Intercity train will cost between 50-75 EUR. Travel time - 9 hours.
Prices on the page are as of October 2018.
Cefalu Hotels
In the resort of Cefalu there are several dozen hotels of different star ratings. If you plan to stay here for a week, the best option is a coastal hotel with sea views. A double room in a three-star hotel will cost 65-80 EUR per night. You will be offered a double bed, minibar, private bathroom with bath or shower and toilet. Meals are usually not included in the cost of living. A double room in a four-star hotel in Cefalu will cost much more - 130-170 EUR per night.
Italy: test of 11 difficult questions. Try to answer correctly 11/11:
Cuisine and restaurants
There are dozens of restaurants in Cefalu. Moreover, they offer not only traditional Mediterranean cuisine, but also, for example, Japanese sushi. But you must agree that without a gastronomic marathon through local pizzerias, gelaterias and restaurants serving masterpieces of Sicilian cuisine, your vacation will be incomplete. Moreover, all food in Cefalu is prepared exclusively from local and fresh products.
Guides to Cefalu
Entertainment and attractions
People also come here because Cefalu is rich in attractions. So, all tourists go to Duomo Square to visit the Cathedral, built in the Arab-Norman style back in the 12th century. The current cathedral is famous for the perfectly preserved Byzantine mosaics on the walls.
But local residents still consider their calling card to be a natural monument - the La Rocca rock, seemingly hanging over the city. Climbing it will require physical effort, but believe me, it will be rewarded many times over with stunning views of the sea and Cefalu spread out below. Here, by the way, you can also see the ruins of the Temple of Diana, built, according to historians, in ancient times.
A fun excursion awaits tourists who want to visit the preserved medieval laundry. Although it is functional (there are stone baths here and water flows constantly), no one in the resort town uses it.
You can explore the sights of Cefalu on your own, without limiting your time, or choose a one-day bus tour.
Among water activities, windsurfing and kitesurfing are very popular among vacationers. Cefalu is also famous for its clubbing: every evening local bars host incendiary discos, including on the beaches.
What else to see
You can go on a cultural excursion to the Madraliska Museum. It has everything from an art gallery to an archaeological collection and antiques. It’s not for nothing that the museum in Cefalu is called a collection of all sorts of things. By the way, it was founded by the local baron Enrico di Mandralisca, who loved collecting various objects of art.
Entrance tickets to the museum cost 6 EUR. For a group of 10 people or more the cost is 4 EUR per person. For students and preschool children - 2 EUR.
The Mandralisca Museum in Cefalu is open every day from 9.00 to 19.00 in January-July, September-December and until 23.00 in August.
Sicily has a huge number of beautiful coastal towns and one of the most beautiful is Cefalu. The city is located in the middle of the northern coast of the island, 70 kilometers from Palermo and 90 kilometers from Capo d'Orlando. The population of the city is 14,000 people.
Cefalu is deservedly included in the list of the most beautiful cities in Italy “I borghi piu belli di Italia” because In addition to magnificent beaches and a sea with turquoise water, there is also an incredibly beautiful historical city center, which will especially appeal to photography lovers. In addition, in the city center there is a unique Norman cathedral, included in the UNESCO World Heritage List.
Cefalu is located approximately 112 kilometers from Catania as the crow flies, or 180-200 kilometers by road, depending on the road chosen. You can get from Catania to Cefalu by bus, train or car.
By car
The journey from Catania to Cefalu by car will take you about two and a half hours. Take the freeway A19 Catania-Palermo and after about 160 kilometers on the motorway, exit the highway to the right at the city sign Buonfornello onto the road SS113. Another 20 kilometers along the SS113 road and you are in Cefalu.
By train
There is no direct train from Catania to Cefalu, so you can only get there by train with a change in Termini Imerese or Messina.
Travel prices vary from 12.8 euros to 20.4 euros one way, depending on different train combinations and transfer times. Total travel time from 3 hours 20 minutes to 5 hours, also depending on the types of trains and waiting time for transfers.
In addition, it is worth keeping in mind that you can only get to Cefalu by train from Catania itself. At Catania Fontanarossa Airport ( CTA) there is no train station. Well, a bus to the city will cost you extra 4 euros And 30 minutes time.
By bus
There is also no direct bus from Catania to Cefalu, and in any case you will have to go with a transfer in Palermo or Messina. You can, of course, find options with transfers in Caltanisetta and Milazzo, but buses to these directions run only 2-4 times a day, which is very inconvenient.
The best option to get to Cefalu from Catania by bus (both from the airport and from the city itself) is to take the direct SAIS Autolinee bus to Messina, the final stop of which is at P.zza della Repubblica, 6(P.zza Stazione FS) Capolinea, just opposite the railway station Messina Centrale. Then transfer to the train Messina Centrale – Cefalu. The cost of the trip will be 19.20 euros, 9,30 for bus tickets and 9,90 for train tickets. Total travel time from 4 to 5 hours, depending on the duration of the transplant. Bus tickets can be purchased for train tickets
From Palermo
Cefalu is located about 60 kilometers from Catania in a straight line, or 70 kilometers if you go by road. You can get from Catania to Cefalu by bus, train or car. I want to say right away that the only way to get directly from Palermo airport to Cefalu is to either rent a car or take a taxi. There is no direct bus or train from Falcone-Borsellino Airport to Cefalu.
By car
The journey from Palermo to Cefalu by car will take you just over an hour. There are two route options:
Fast: take the free motorway ( E90), drive about 40 kilometers and turn off the motorway onto the regular road SS113 following the city sign Buonfornello. Another 20 kilometers along the SS113 road and you are in Cefalu.
Beautiful: drive along the SS113 road along the sea without leaving the motorway. This road will take you a little longer, but why take a car in Sicily at all, if not for driving along the winding roads along the sea?
